Braxton1

The ultimate "Is my ammo strong enough?" test is "Will it go to Slide Lock when shooting Weak Hand-only?". If it'll do that, it'll run the gun consistently.

I just bit the bullet (literally) and bought A-Zoom dummies. They're pricey, but I don't think I'd ever be able to wear these things out.

I have shot Prod-15 at some Outlaw matches recently, just to get a feel for it. The only advantages are when there are some close "Shoot six from here, six from there" setups. If it's "Eight from here, Eight from there", you land in Slide Lock and the rest of the game plan gets sketchy. It feels like SSP in IDPA. The capacity increase there wasn't really a game changer, since most course designers design around 10-round Carry Optics there. In the end, I supported the change just to be more in-line with IPSC rules.

In this particular scenario Sunday, SIGNIFICANT advantage was gained by leaning hard into these walls and displacing them. That's why I was thinking a "per shot" penalty instead of "per occurrence". Those shots were so awkward that I ended up going Strong Hand-only for those shots and WHO for the shots on the mirror image port on the left side to avoid leaning into them walls too hard.

A certain pistol manufacturer did some testing a few years ago on this very topic. Although the pistol ran well in this configuration, there was some flame-cutting/erosion of the edges of the chamber's front ledge, but not enough to be a significant concern. This manufacturer is known for having barrels that are harder than woodpecker lips, so that may be worse in others' barrels.

I knew you folks were smart!!! Thanks!!

Got a good one for you: Indoor match with snow fence walls that are built on 2X2 frames. Not hard-anchored into the ground. If bumped hard enough, they will move or lean. Even if weighted down heavily, they'll flex. A shooter goes up to a doorway gap and leans into the wall very hard, making it lean but totally destroying the difficulty of the required shots. Range Equipment Failure? I am hesitant to call it that, since the shooter is intentionally doing it. We discussed making a House Rule that dislodging the walls to make your shooting angle better would be the same as a Foot Fault: 1 Procedural Penalty per shot. Thoughts?

Yes, the Gen5 guiderod is longer than the 1/2/3/4 rod.

If we're talking "screws for frame-mounted optics", we're probably using 5-40 screws. The recommended torque specs for those ranges from 7.7 to 8.1 INCH-POUNDS. That is light-as-heck, so good thread sealant is critical.

This is to be expected. The GPT (and the Timney) hold the Firing Pin at a fully-cocked position, therefore exerting more spring pressure resisting slide closure.

I personally run the #6 and #7 orange followers in my Gen4 mags. I like the orange followers for the hi-viz aspect.

I do the Arredondo's. The molded-in checkering needs to be sanded off to make a reliably-below 140mm length, but they install easily and last for a while.

Blade-Techs work well for this application and they probably have one in-stock either on their website or through Amazon.

Please keep the USPSA "45 ounce with an empty magazine" weight limit in-mind when considering Tungsten. If the pistol is a 9mm, you'd be hard-pressed to meet the limit with a Tungsten rod, especially with the G10 grips and magwell. In 45, it should be easy to do.

The Extractor, Spring-Loaded Bearing, and Firing Pin parts are different in the OEM Glocks, plus the barrel is a different diameter. Assuming that we're in the Gen3 realm here, the Recoil Spring Assembly is the same for 9's and 40's. In Gen4's, it is a different RSA. The Firing Pin Safety is the same for both calibers. The Extractor parts are different to allow for the difference in breechface dimensions for the larger .40 cal casing. The Firing Pin tip is a touch longer in the .40's.

On a lot of the old .22 Short pistols for Int'l Rapid Fire (like the Domino, Walther OSP, and the Pardini), we'd put a drop of oil on the tip of bullet just before seating the mag. I don't know if that'd help, but it worked there....

IMHO, the Nationals at PASA and The Masters tournaments were great due to the efforts of Dick and his family. The PASA ranges always felt like a homestyle setting for me. Most of the outbuildings were older barns from when the property was their family farm and Dick still lived in the farmhouse. Several Nationals stages used tractors and other farm implements as props.

...or you could just buy a Glock 49. Larry Vickers leaked pics of this a year ago.

To cause that, the rear surface of the FPS is too far forward and the hammer is rotating a little farther than normal before coming to rest on the FPS. This can be caused by at least two things: either the FPS itself is a little thin or the barrel was fit incorrectly (allowing the slide to go forward a lttle farther than normal, resulting in the same "too far forward" interface between the hammer and FPS. I'd measure the FPS thickness against a couple of known good ones. If that is within spec, I'd look at the lower lugs of the barrel feet. It's only supposed to have .035 to .040 of a flat spot past the point where the link is straight-up vertical. If the 'smith who built the gun over-fit this, it'll move that rear surface of the FPS a bit forward too. If the gun is running and that mar doesn't get much worse, I'd just run it....

My concern with AA7 is barrel erosion. I have seen low-mileage barrels that looked HORRIBLE from AA7. Back in the 80s when powder choices were a bit limited, I used Win 540. My barrel looked brand new a few years later. My buddy used 7 and his looked like it'd had sandpaper shot thru it....

That is correct. It is not available as an OEM separate part. It is included as part of the 9mm Trigger Mechanism Housing (along with the 47201 Ejector). The Part Number is 47208. $5 for the whole assembly.

N320 in 9Major???? I hope this is a typo. The pressure curve for this load would be quite steep, given that 320 is their second-fastest burning Pistol powder....

Although I'd be hesitant to say "Never needs replacing", the Gen5 trigger spring operates in a way that would definitely contribute to an exceptionally long life. It's not subject to dynamic loading (shock), plus it compresses a very small distance on each cycle, which doesn't generate any significant heat from flexing. I have used both the OEM and TTI GrandMaster springs. Both worked great and haven't need replacing yet.

Yep, "sharp corners" = "bad" (stress risers) For a C/O gun shooting 130 PF ammo with enough Recoil Spring, it should last a long time. Alter those parameters and life will likely go down a bit.

That should be spooky-light, but would feel good if you could get it to run. It's well under the Starting Load data that I have from Hodgdon (3.5 Clays @ 1010 fps).