Kravi

It wasn't a stock gun. I started with a Frankenstein's Monster. I bought a stripped frame (G17.5), an Overwatch Trigger, a GlockStore Recoil Spring, Extended Slide Release, NDZ extended (slightly) mag release, a Zev slide and a Faxon barrel. It (more or less) came out to the same price as a stock glock (retail). Obviously in retrospect I'd just buy a stock g17.5 and send the slide off to be milled, but that is in retrospect. As for your "stacked tolerances" comment, I shot the barrel out of an OEM slide and had the same issues. It ain't the Zev slide (granted, I might have gotten lucky with that), it is purely the barrel. And you are preaching to the choir. As I said in the first post and up above here, going forward I'd just stick with OEM for the major components.

I've shot AAC, Blazer and PMC through this, all with the same results. Cheers, Adam

So I've been struggling competitively in a way that I shouldn't be struggling. I mean, I've been performing terribly.... So I thought I would test things out. I have a g17.5 I use for competitions with a Zev slide, a Faxon TiN Match barrel, an Overwatch Precision trigger and a GlockStore tungsten guide rod (the type which is basically a platic OEM g5 recoil spring made from tungsten). I also brought my g45 with an OEM barrel and slide, but the same trigger and recoil spring / guide rod as the g17 (granted the g19/g45 version). And.... I shot four targets from a bag. The top left was pure g17.5. Big spread. The top right was g45, tight group minus one called flyer. Bottom left was the Faxon g17 barrel in the g45 (you can do that with Gen 5 glocks). Big spread, almost identical to the g17.5 spread. And the bottom right was the re-assembled g17.5. And guess what? Big spread. So basically I'm getting way lousier performance (I'm trying to keep this safe for work) with the "Faxon Match" barrel than I am with the OEM barrel. I reached out to Faxon to see if they have any spec guarantee, but most likely I'm going to just replace it with an OEM barrel. Hence my fuddiness. G5 glocks are pretty damned mechanically accurate. While I like the overwatch triggers because they are safe and have less trigger pull (I've got short fingers so it helps a lot), the fantasy of using aftermarket parts for "performance improvements" seems dead to me... Cheers, Adam

I usually load up 6 rounds and do three "sets" of doubles, much like you suggested. Today I (before reading this) did a single set of doubles at a time, triggered by my timer (coincidence?). It does tend to trigger my flinch. I made some progress, but it is irritating to me how much my reflexes are triggered to a flinch response. It is something with my parasympathetic nervous system, methinks. Cheers, Adam

That tracks with what I'm experiencing. As I mentioned in another response, when I'm doing raw cadence (such as a Bill Drill), I can get fast splits and less spread. But something about doubles seems to trigger my "flinch", I guess. Flinching, or over driving the gun, or whatever, is something I've already wrestled with. And while I'm getting better, it still rears its ugly head when I'm running doubles. Though towards the end of my practice session today I had it tamed. Until next time....

Yeah, I spent a couple of hundred rounds at the ammo today just practicing doubles and made some good progress. It seems like it is something I can train through. Interestingly, when I was doing some Bill Drills, I found the 17 super easy to keep on target and tight, even with 16 and 17 splits. The doubles are still harder for me, but I made some progress. My distance shooting is total bollocks, though. Shooting out at 25 (when trying to shoot quickly - not the super slow aimed shots) is really hard for me to get a tight group. Like I'll average an alpha and a charlie when shooting two rounds out there.

@Racinready300ex Thanks for the response. Just to be clear, I'm not saying I don't push, and I'm not saying that I only shoot 19s with the 45. I was trying to illustrate how two guns with the exact same furniture, exact same grip, and exact everything (except for slide length) behaved differently, so I wanted to show that I could shooter faster doubles with one over the other. That isn't the end all of my training, or even how I push myself. It was just metrics for comparison. And to be clear, shooting 16s is totally ugly for me P.S. What is prefect zero?

Thanks for the responses. @IVC just to be clear, while I'm fairly new at USPSA, I've been shooting a while, and I've been shooting 2gun for a couple of years. My observation is in the difference between the G45 and the G17.5. I don't think I'd be driving the G17.5 more than the G45 for any reason, particularly since it has a smoother recoil impulse. So the only thing I can think of is the additional weight of the slide (and maybe flashlight) making it a bit top heavy and thus "dipping" when it completes its firing cycle. As I mentioned above, with a G45 I can get nice tight pairs with a .19 split. With a G17.5, my pairs, when shooting .19 splits, are closer to 2 - 4 inches apart. If I slow down the G17.5 to .22 splits, though, they tighten back up again.

Hey folks, I wanted some feedback from the community on this, though I'm not 100% sure where it should go (if I got it wrong, Mods, my apologies!). Additional apologies for the wall of text I vomited out here. I tried to break it up into bite sized pieces, but... I'm a fairly new competitive shooter. I've been shooting 2gun for almost 2 years and I've now attended 2 local USPSA matches (my third is on Saturday). Despite being a "gun nerd", I've come to the conclusion that I'm not a skilled enough shooter to be able to transfer back and forth between different handguns with different grip angles and manuals of arms easily. I was shooting a PDP in 2gun for the past year but had issues with the red dot because I carry (and mostly train with) a G19.5 or a G45.5 (is the G45.5 redundant because there weren't any G45s prior to Gen 5?). So I broke down and got me a G17.5 for competition use so I'd have the same grip and manual of arms as my G45 (and more or less my G19). And so far, that works great. Just for more background (I swear I'll get to the point eventually), my two carry guns each have a Holosun 507C (I totally should have saved money and just got the 407C because I don't use the 32 MOA circle) and my G17.5 has a 507 Comp. All three run Overwatch Precision trigger kits (I have short fingers and normal palms, the reduced travel from OP triggers means I can grip the Glock properly - it is not a competition trigger, but it is great by me), Glock Store Tungsten Guide Rods (the OEM double springs that are made of tungsten instead of plastic, but have standard spring weights), thug plugs, extended slide releases (short fingers again) and slightly enlarged mag releases. The carry guns are stippled and the competition gun has the super sandpapery talon grips on it. Striker, barrel, etc are all OEM. Obviously I'm in Carry Optics. And the reason I'm bringing this up is because, as best I can, I'm trying to compare apples to apples. So when I'm shooting doubles I've come across an observation. With my G45, at 5 meters, I can double at ~.19 seconds and my follow-up shot is generally within an inch of my first shot. This is pretty consistent (minus the usual goof ups that happen to me as an amateur shooter or as I start to get tired). With my G17.5, despite a better grip, when I shoot doubles at ~.19 seconds my second shot tends to be a good two to four inches below the first shot. If I slow down to ~.22 or so, then they tighten back up. I'm assuming that the additional weight of the slide causes it to nosedive a bit further when cycling, which is why the follow-up shot is so low. So at long last, my questions: 1. Can I get just as good at doubles with a G17.5 as I am with a G45, or will I always have to slow down? IE how much of this is a crappy grip and lack of training, vs an inevitability of physics? 2. The recoil impulse of the g17.5 is smoooooooth. I mean, it feels good, so how could I not like the gun. But part of me is wondering if I should just kit out a G45 as a competition gun and retire the 17. I do find I'm a bit more accurate with the 17.5 at distances, but just a smidge. Thoughts? Cheers, Adam EDIT: I am running a Streamlight TLR-1 on my Competition Gun and TLR-7As on my carry guns, so there is a slight weight difference. But not a lot.

I'm a universal 100m zero kinda guy. I do both my red dots and my lpvos at 100m. I'm either on target or have a bit of a hold over, but I'm never low. Zero issues at close ranges just holding the red dot a wee bit higher than I want the round to go, and otherwise it just doesn't really matter. But when I stretch it out past 100 (my local 2gun matches have a stage that goes out to 300) I find the 100m zero is waaaaay more effective than a 50. Dead on at 100. Round hits a couple of inches low at 200 (who cares), and about a foot and a half low (maybe a bit less) at 300. Easy to remember, easy to guestimate. And all my rifles, red dot or lpvo end up with the same easy holds (more or less). Obviously if you were a precision shooter, things would be very different.

That is fantastic news. So I could just get a .240 washer (cut to fit, of course) and the springs should start functioning normally? Cheers!

Yeah, I'm running the Glock Store Tungsten rod now (which I run in my carry Glocks) which is the OEM spring but the rod is made of Tungsten (not their "Pure Tungsten" rod which is not a double spring). It runs very well, is OEM for all practical purposes, and the weight is appreciated.

So to double check, I put in a lighter firing pin spring (which shipped with the wolff springs) and the same problem occurred. Unless, for whatever reason, they are included a full power firing pin spring in the package - it is thinner and narrower than the OEM firing pin spring. EDIT: Ok, the recoil springs ship with factory standard 5.5lb striker springs, so obviously swapping it out won't make a difference. Go me! On the other hand, while I'm certainly not shooting any hard-primered NATO rounds, what are the reliability consequences of dropping to a lower striker spring weight?

Ok, so I'm back with some sad news. I took my glock 17.5 to the range today for its inaugural test run and siting in. I was running it with a tti guide rod with their gen 5 adapter, and the tti "default" 15lb spring. The spring wasn't strong enough to always return the slide to battery, and I kept getting off center light primer strikes. When I swapped out the 15 lb spring for a 17 lb wolff spring, it got better, but still had the occasional issue. The OEM 17lb spring, on the other hand, functioned flawlessly. Then I found this video from 5 years ago which explains the problem better than I ever could: I wish I had seen this before I dropped $36 or so on the steel guide rod (and another $16 on extra wolff springs. Word on the street is the ISMI are much better with the Gen 5s, but I haven't tested it. The Glock Store "Pure Tungsten" Gen 5 guide rods apparently use the ISMI springs and work great. Consider this my PSA for the week! Cheers, Adam

What about products like "liquid chalk"? I haven't used it yet, but I have it in my kit and was planning on testing it this weekend.