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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About TexasShootR

  • Rank
    Finally read the FAQs
  • Birthday 04/19/1957

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  • Gender
  • Location
    MO City, Texas
  • Interests
    USPSA/Steel Challenge
  • Real Name
    Joe Lowery

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  1. Brian, wanted to let you know I've just sold an item here at BE and also made a small donation. Thanks
  2. Chrono this last week, Blue Bullets 147 gn N320 3.1 - 3.2 gn COL 1.140 range brass cci spp 10 rounds, AV 882 FPS, ES 31, SD 9, Power Factor 129.9 Very good on recoil, not much dip on return. Sig P320 x5 legion.
  3. Thanks, 36873687, 147gn Blue Bullets 3.3gn VV N320 COL 1.135 String one, 10 rounds AV 898, ES 20, SD 6 String two, 10 rounds AV 900, ES 55. SD 15 Power Factor 132 Overall, recoil was very manageable. Very little muzzle dip. Accuracy good.
  4. Going to start shooting Carry Optic Division but first I need some help with load data. I will be shooting 147gn Blue Bullets out of the Sig P320 X5 Legion. Have a few powders on hand, VV3N38, VV N320, IMR 4756 and IMR SR 7625. Blue Bullets suggest loading for the lead bullets. Not finding any data for loading lead bullets on any of the listed powders that I have. Also for any of my powders listed the recommended charge for the XTP bullets won't make minor power factor (less than 850FPS). I did find one post here at BE where they use 3.3gn of VV N320 @ 1.125 but he had a short throat on a production gun. Would anyone shooting BB and a Legion care to share their load data? Thanks
  5. Guys I appreciate your views and for taking the time to help with possible reasons why my gun shoots this way. TBH I have never heard of having a lock up problem. I was thinking the barrel was getting wear and after the first shot the barrel would heat up, thus making the barrel tighter through heat and the trajectory would change. Today I talked with a very reputable gunsmith here near me and he asked about my ammo. He suggested I try a known good ammo like MG. I hadn't thought of that but MG is what I started shooting through this gun but changed for a lower costing round. I've been shooting this bullet for a couple years, always having pretty good accuracy. But I have not checked for accuracy in sometime now, until last Saturday when I shot and had the worst match of my life ( long story but came in dead last at the Texas Open ? ). Anyway I'm still leaning towards a barrel problem but I'm no expert and appreciate all advice. Thanks, joe Believe I got the cold versus hot backwards, cold would be tighter hot looser, I think.
  6. Thanks for the input, let's assume that I have a lock up problem causing the first shot to go high right. What should I look for?
  7. Can't find Cameron Custom Guns online. Anyone know if they are still in business?
  8. What could be the cause of this shot grouping? My thought is the sight is off a bit plus the barrel has got lots of wear. On a four shot group the first shot goes far right and high. On the follow up shots lower left. If i let the gun cool down a couple of minutes between targets this is what happens. Aim point is always center red taking dead aim maybe 2-3 seconds per shot at 18 yards. Thanks, By the way this is a 4 year old Cameron gun with maybe 35, 40 thousand shots fired.
  9. I shoot a 38 super built by Cameron Guns. It has a side mount c-more. It was built to shoot super comp but it eats supers as well thanks to Eddie J.
  10. I did a search here looking for some help with tuning my open gun and found this thread. I was looking to find information on what steps to take to keep the red dot in the glass during recoil. After reading through slow motion comp testing I think my gun is on par with most other guns shown here in videos, meaning the dot movement looks very similar. I shot a match last weekend where I felt I was waiting forever for my dot to come back into the glass so I could take the shot ( call the shot ). Watching and listening other open shooters go through the stages it sounded like their splits were much faster and their times agreed. So I decided to test a couple different loads through it, keeping everything the same but the powder charge. I shot a 168 power factor, 172 PF and my original load 174 PF between 15 and 20 yards. My results showed that my original load of 174PF performed the best with less muzzle dip. It was interesting to me because during the match I never noticed any muzzle dip only muzzle rise and what seemed forever for it to return to center. But what my test showed was what seemed forever was on average .38 second splits @ 15-20 yards. I guess that's not that slow for a B class shooter. But the other two loads had noticeable muzzle dip which didn't change my splits all that much, actually my splits went down a little with the 172 PF but the acuarcy went down as well. So all in all I've come to the conclusion that because there doesn't seem to be a holy grail to get a flat shooting open gun, without a lot of expense that most shooters just learn when to pull the trigger at the right moment in order to get a hit in the a zone with fast splits. But I stand to be corrected and any suggestion on how getting a flatter shooting gun, would be appreciated.
  11. Update, today I did a little more polishing of the chamber and I also removed one of the springs on the Aftec extractor. Took it out to the range and put about 50 rounds through it without any FTF. Won't be sure if its 100% fixed untill next match but it did well today. Thanks to all that replied with suggestions.
  12. "are those marks just on the top of the barrel, or are they all around the barrel" It seems to be more on the sides and top but before taken the picture I took some very fine wet dry sand paper and sanded it with a dowel rod and a drill. It polishes the bottom of the chamber more than the top and sides.
  13. I do chamber check every round through a dillion gauge. Also the round will fall in the chamber with no problems if you drop it straight in.
  14. Sorry about the lack of info. This gun is new, maybe one thousand rounds through it. It shot fine the first 500 rounds but then at a local hybrid match (Generation 300) it started with this problem. A lot of shoting that day 300 rounds in eight stages. .38 SuperComp 124gn MG CMJ oal 1.225 VV 3n38 9.7gn. (1400fps) Side note: When I set up this load the bullet measured 1.225 col but at some point (500 rounds?) the lenth changed and it measured 1.255 col. I corrected this back to 1.225 and reshot it and the gun still wouldn't cycle. It will now hang open by just chambering a round by hand. Here's some pictures One person thought the extractor might be to tight this scatch comes from the top of the ramp when it gets stuck I can slowly slide the bullet in the barrel and it gets stuck at this point Here are the scratches in the barrel, This is after a guick polishing. Would like to add this gun was set up as a SuperComp, because I'm new to Open division and to .38 SuperComp I didn't know .38 Super brass was different than .38 SuperComp brass. So I ordered all Super brass. I was told it would be ok to shoot with the Super brass. And like I said it was fine for a while.
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