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TGibe

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Everything posted by TGibe

  1. Thanks. Building from parts may be more than I want to bite off right now... So I'm looking seriously at 2 options. Option 1 (~$850) would be to purchase Spartan lower like this http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Spartan_Complete_9mm_Billet_Lower_Receiver_V2_p/jb-spartan9-v2.htm (it comes with at least a Hiperfire EDT) and a complete upper like this https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Kaw_Valley_Precision_AR_15_16_9MM_Complete_Upper_p/kvp-9up-16lc.htm This option would basically be a step up from where I'm at, but not to the top like a JP. Option 2 (~$2k) Buy a JP GMR15 and be done. This will require saving up some more money and waiting. When I was shooting 3 gun I bought a JP15 (sold now) and had literally zero issues, which is why I bought it.
  2. Cool. Thx. Will start digging and see if I want to go this route.
  3. Picked up a used mechtech to make sure I liked PCC and and now am looking for a better arrow. But I also don't want to spend what it costs for the JP9 or MPX... I've never built an AR before (I bought a JP15 and it ran flawlessly)... Is it truly snap together the lego parts and go have fun? Thx
  4. http://www.geekwire.com/2013/contour-closes-seattle-hq-surprises-employees-execs-mum-status-gopro-rival/ This story...
  5. I like the island counter idea. I wish I had space for that as it would come in handy.
  6. Thanks Albert. I ended up ordering a Vortex Diamondback 20-60 80mm http://www.vortexoptics.com/product/vortex-diamondback-20-60x80-angled-spotting-scope after I called them and got the same answer you provided. I figure it will be OK for my needs...
  7. I am looking to get a spotting scope that will allow me to see .223 holes at 200 yards on clear sunny days. I don't really need it for anything longer than that distance. I don't have a lot of experience with rifle stuff and only really shoot 3-gun, but have found that cheap scopes are crap after 100 yards... I am considering a Vortex scope and there are quite a few options. My main question is should I go for the 20-60x with regular glass or the 15-45 with HD glass. Thanks, Allen
  8. I have the tool, so I think I will order up the conversion parts and sell the SDB. Cheers.
  9. Thanks. I usually run the tube dry between sessions, but that is a good idea.
  10. This looks pretty straight forward according to the manual, but I wanted to see if anyone has any tips that will help me out (or talk me out of it). I have a few tool heads setup for .223, 9mm, and 40 and have been using a SDB for .45. Compared to the 1050 the SDB is a lot more work and slower so I was thinking of selling it to a friend and buying the parts required to load .45 on my 1050. I tend to load 3000-5000 at a time and swapping toolheads, etc. has proven quite easy to me. Just haven't wanted to mess with the priming system. The primer punch adjustment mentioned on page 14 of the manual looks to be the trickiest part. Am I overthinking it? Thanks, Allen
  11. Another benefit of the Dillon boxes is that they are in rows\columns of 10. When loading a mag I don't have to count - I just start with a fresh column and use up the right amount. Some of my open mags have this nice secondary "salt shaker" feature if you load 1 more that the regular amount and this method keeps that from happening unless I want it to
  12. Made up some loads using 6.0g of 7625 @ 1.250 and rainier 230 RN and ended up with 186PF. Felt pretty good. What PF are USPSA shooters trying to get with 230g projectiles in singlestack division? I think I make up some that are closer to 175PF and see what the difference is. I run my open gun at 172PF with 124grainers. Thx
  13. Since I switched to 9major and autocomp I have a bunch of 7625 sitting around. I have Rainier 230gr and some 230gr moly coated lead projectiles. Does anyone have any experience loading .45 with 7625? I tried using N320 and did not like the performance so I'm saving that for my .40 limited rig. I guess I could just buy some clays thanks!
  14. I had about a half-stack detonate on my 1050. Since I had a 180gr .40 taped to the top of the plastic rod it destroyed the light and the plastic rod looked lim an accordion. The primer tube was bulged with dead and live primers rattling around in it. The blue guide at the bottom was obliterated. Fortunately I have a SDB in .45 that came with a separate small primer feed tube, but I was done for the night.
  15. Last year's Ironman was only my second real 3-gun match. I went through about 600 each of rifle, shot, and pistol and about 100 slugs. But I was spraying pistol at spinners, rifle at spinners and dueling trees and taking a couple of shots at flying clays at times. I will probably go through less this year (I hope). A good shooter will go through a LOT less, but I got to shoot more for the same price ;-) My advice - bring a bunch and you will take some home. Better than borrowing...
  16. Speed vs. Points is an area that I am looking into and trying to work on as well. There are times when the highest hit factor for a stage can be estimated/calculated by people smarter than me. Then it becomes a math problem as to whether dropping a few points (yeah, it is a little easier shooting Major), but gaining a time advantage will yield a higher hit factor that getting all A's would require. Because I haven't been successful as calculating the stage hit factor I have been focusing on accuracy on smaller stages and speed on large stages. Of course, going the same speed while getting all alphas should be the goal...
  17. As others have said I check every round in a case gauge or chamber checker. I have the EGW 7 and 50 rounders for 9, .38Super, .40, and 45 plus the dillon singles. The dillons are more forgiving, especially in .9mm vs. the EGW ones. I get about 10 rejects per 100 with the EGW 50 hole in 9mm and of those almost all pass on the Dillon gauge. I thought the 50 holer might have been out of spec, but after calling EGW I think it probably isn't. Is it worth it to spend the time to check every round? I guess that depends on how on you are with ANY failures during a match. I have had exactly 4 failures in the last 17,000+ rounds and all were as someone mentioned where the brass stretched out and the gun wouldn't go into battery. I can live with that I guess.
  18. I will have to look for the lamp... The one I have is terrible. I love the perfboard wall-o-guns!
  19. Vision is one of the reasons I shoot open in 3-gun. I tried the multi focal contacts and I just couldn't get used to them. Never did seem to have clear vision for very long. But they must be working for some folks or they wouldn't be selling them, right?
  20. Your choice on whether to shoot production of limited minor. My main goal when starting out was to get through a match without scaring the ROs. That just means going at your own pace and focusing on alphas. Dry fire and practicing reloads with empty mags over the edge of the bed is a good way to work yourself up to shooting production. Welcome to the most addicting sport I have found...
  21. I shoot open mostly, but when I shoot limited or Singlestack I go mono vision. I put them on when I leave the house and within an hour I don't even think about it anymore. In some ways it is easier than open, because I can barely see the score sheets with my regular RX shooting glasses on! LOL
  22. I like this approach - especially for local matches. I certainly understand that rifle ammo is scarce right now. Because of my location and no real regular 3-gun matches close by, when I travel to a match I want to make sure it is worth it to me. All told I may only get 7 or 8 3-gun matches in all year... Pistol matches are plentiful... Would love a monthly match close enough to attend :-)
  23. I own a couple of contours and would recommend the ROAM. Super easy to use, easy to attach, and because it is black it stands out less than a Hero. With that said, I did just buy a hero 3 to mess around with...
  24. I am a tech geek and just picked up a hero 3. Also have a couple of contours and a flip (because I can hand it to just about anyone and they can run it for 3rd person views). I tried a buddy's hero 3 at 240 fps and was able to slow it done in post to 24 frames and it still looked smooth. As for a practical purpose, it helps me remember matches after the fact and gives me a way to see growth. Other than that it picks up the occasional malfunction and helps me understand what went wrong. Cheers
  25. I agree with most of the posts here and am not in favor of reduced round counts. The time commitment of 3-gun is huge and I like to shoot as much as possible at matches... Cheers.
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