CZinSC

I’m looking to see if anyone in the SC/NC/GA area has a Stock 2. I am currently using a CZ SP01 in Production and have been thinking of ordering a new Shadow. However, I’ve shot my friends Tanfo Limited and like it a lot. I understand that the Stock 2 is essentially the same frame as the Limited. I have large hands and one of my only complaints about the Shadow is that I have a hard time getting my support hand on the gun. With the Tanfo Limited, I can get my whole weak side meat hook in on the grip. I’m thinking the Stock 2 would be the gun for me. Not to mention all of the new “Extreme” parts that Eric G is putting out, I really want to take a look at the Stock 2. I would be willing to wait to find one, since they are about as common in the US as a purple unicorns, but I would prefer to shoot it or at least handle it first if I’m going to wait. So…..does anyone in the SC/NC/GA area own one that you would be willing to let me handle and possibly shoot? I’m in Greenville, SC and would be willing to drive to your home range. Please let me know via PM. I have a VERY flexible schedule, so basically any day/night or time would work for me. Thanks

The other competitor was wrong. In Production, guns with external hammers MUST start with the hammer down. Not on safe. On your gun, you need to use the decocker. And you don't need to wait to get the rulebook to investigate yourself. Just go to the rulebook on the website: http://www.uspsa.org/rules/2010HandgunRulesProof3web.pdf Check out Appendix D4, and then look under Special Conditions. Glad to hear that you had a great time. It's an addicting sport. It only gets worse...or is it better? Not sure!

Been out of work since last June when I got laid off. It sucks the big one.

Sounds like the shellplate bolt set screw is either missing or loose. You need to pull the handle down a few inches, and then look on the left side of the ram. There is a hole there for the shellplate bolt set screw. After you've adjusted the shellplate bolt, this screw needs to be tightened to the bolt doesnt move when you turn the star.

Are you offering a discount due to your current condition? I may not be a contender yet, but with that cast on your leg I think I may be able to take you!

"having" a spare slide stop and TRS and "replacing" them are two different things. Hopefully we've convinced you to do both. But otherwise yes, you've got it covered. I'd also mention replacing mag springs and keeping an eye on your mag lips. I had both problems, at two separate majors. The mag lips got bent to shit on one of mags and I didn't notice. Caused issues. Then after replacing all my mags, I was all set to go, and then had issues again with Mag springs....being too tight! I got the +10% from CZC and had a few issues at FL Open. Jason, I think you were in my squad if i remember correctly. I had no issues day one, but noticed the slide was feeling sluggish. Finally had an issue on day two. Turns out the mag springs were so tight, they were causing the slide to not go into battery all the way. Another lesson learned. Don't replace the mag springs the week before a major!!!

For me, at the time it happened I had no idea what went wrong. The slide was slightly out of battery, and I could see a case in the barrel. Didn't know if it was live or fired, so the RO was not letting me leave the bay with it like that, so I had to fix it. The slide would not budge...not one bit. It was as if someone had welded the slide to the frame. As they say, hindsight is 20-20, I didn't realize the slide stop was sticking slightly out of the right side, like it normally does, and on the left side it was about 1/4" away from the frame (not normal). It did not dawn on me until later that those two things couldn't happen at the same time! What i finally was able to do was tap on the barrel hood with a hammer which disengaged the barrel lugs. At that point i was able to push the slide stop back in and rack the slide. The case that was in the barrel was empty. With the gun cleared I was able to go to the safe area. At that point, I had to pull the half of slide stop out of the left side, and if I remember correctly I had to push the broken piece out the right side.

My slide stop ( SP01 ) broke during a stage at the AL Sectional this year. "Finished" the stage with 4 FTE's and 11 Mikes. Whose fault was it? Mine of course. I have heard about the slide stops breaking, just never got around to replacing it. Mine had about 15-20K on it. It's a $34 part. Most people have an extra in their parts kit, like I did, which keeps you in the match. But your chance of doing well in the match is pretty much over when it happens. What you should do, is replace it before it happens. I am going to start replacing mine every 10K rounds. Overkill? Maybe. But after all the practice we do, the match fees, hotel costs, gas to get there...is $34 a year really asking a lot? You decide. My two cents is replace it before it breaks.

Yep..you're right. It hurts when you're not working the right tools! Yes, I got both hits on the drop out on #8. I think they were C/D, but they were there. I was torn between starting #2 on my knee or go into a crouch. Came down to the fact that the crash and burn factor trying to shoot the star in a crouch, for me personally, was not worth it. We had two guys, an M and a B, both go to slide lock on the star, so I was glad I shot it the way I did. Was good seeing you Gomer, and the rest of the Augusta crew. By the way, your narrartive on stage #1 for Foster came through. I will PM you the link to the video!

Since you asked for video, and not "good video", i will throw mine out there for you to see.

I thought there was going to be a new video after Area 6, but alas, nothing noteworthy happened. There's always SC Section next week!

LOL, ok, good. BTW, I built Stage 4 for tomorrow's match and really want to shoot it now. So I really hope the weathermen are wrong...as usual.

Wow...I didn't think I shot Area 6 that bad!!

Weathermen are almost always wrong. If you take into consideration that they got the forecast pretty much correct last weekend for the Area 6 match, there's no way they will get it correct two weekends in a row. I predict it rains tonight, tapers off for us to shoot tomorrow, and it starts raining after we leave the range.

Aren't you the Singlestack shooter that sometimes shoots Open? :-)

Without a proper trigger job, it won't matter. I have an SP01, with the FPB, and I had CZC do the trigger job two years ago. Since then, I've gone in myself and polished just about every fire control part that effects SA and DA pulls. I will put my trigger pull, both DA and SA, against any Shadow not tuned by Stuart, Mink, or Akai. The biggest difference you will see is the SA reset. With the FPB it is looooong. My point is you can get the trigger to work just about as good as a Shadow. But do yourself a favor and just get the Shadow.

Damn Open shooters. :-)

Could be worse, you could have agreed to build a stage for this weekend, like I did. Let's try the power of positive thought: It's not going to rain.....it's not going to rain....It's...Oh hell....It's going to rain like a Mo-Fo...AGAIN!

Thanks for the heads up! Just bought a case.

I have the SP01. I wish I would have bought the Shadow from the beginning. I've put enough money into the gun, that I think if I bought the Shadow in the first place, I would have paid less. If you're going to buy an SP01, you are constantly going to try and make it like a Shadow. You will never get it just like the Shadow ( especially if you're shooting Production, and cannot remove the FPB ). Buy the Shadow. Take it from someone that wishes he did...and is getting ready to buy one himself.

I started doing that "save the weight, leave the mags in the bag" thing a few months ago. After forgetting to put them back in on more than one occasion while being called to the line to shoot, i have since ditched that idea.

or is it possible to put it in backwards, same effect, the hole that powder drops in to is on the wrong end? Don't think it's possible, but worth a shot. The other thing is, is the powder hopper collar low enough on the powder die? The two allen screws that hold the collar on, that part. It is possible to put the powder hopper on top of the die, tighten it down, and it would look and operate normally, but not drop powder...( i just did it on mine to see if it's possible, and it is ). Loosen those two screws and make sure the collar is as loose as you can get it with it still being attached. Then make sure the powder hopper is all the way on the down as far as it will go. Jiggle it and make sure it bottoms out. Then tighten it all up. To the OP, do you have a way of taking a video and showing us? Even a crappy cell phone video would probably help.

FPB can be removed, but you will most likely need a space to fill the spot where the FPB lifting arm is in the sear. I am not sure, but i think there may be too much slop when you take it out, not sure if it will function properly without the spacer ( they sell it on CZC's site ). Someone that has removed it should be able to answer that for you, but that is not me. And like others said.....it's not Production legal. If you're worried about Production legal....get rid of it!

Have you tried dumping the powder hopper and checking to make sure there are no obstructions blocking the powder from dropping into the powder bar? Would have to be a big obstruction to prevent all powder from dropping, but I can't see anything else it could be from the replies so far.

Sorry in advance if I insult your intelligence with this response...but I've spoken with others in the past that did not know this, so we'll give it a shot. You say the print screen button doesn't work. You do know that when you hit the button, it doesn't just print right? It's essentially a Copy function. You need to open a program like Paint or Word, and hit paste and the image of the screen will paste. Like I said, sorry if you know this, but I figured I'd throw it out there. If not, then definitely go with CutePDF like Scott recommends. I use the program all the time. Easy to install, easy to use.