Canuck223

Ever catch yourself in a moment where you're not sure if you have a problem, or just failed to notice something for years? I had a few issues while priming 9mm brass, and while trying to diagnose the problem, I observed something that I should bloody well know but don't. When the primer slide returns under the shellplate, is it supposed to come to rest in it's final position in line with the primer punch, or is normal for the toolhead indexing pin to pull it slightly forward? I assumed if the primer arm was adjusted properly, it would come to rest in it's final position. When I started to try and adjust the height and angle of the primer arm, I quicky concluded that wasn't going to happen with my current parts. As the toolhead comes down, the surface on the primer arm that engages the pin that would support the ratchet loses contact before the primer slide is 100% forward. It parks the slide a little less than an 1/8 inch shy. The tool head indexing pin draws the slide into final position. It does it smoothly. The primer problem I was having was due to too light a swage on some crimped brass and a new primer station locating tab. The primer slide observation is a secondary concern.

Here is a side by side comparison. The standard K100 hammer group is on the left.

The new sear is positioned as shown from a new pin between the hammers pivot pin and the firing pin safety pivot. The hammer spring pin wasn't installed in the picture, but you can imagine from the cut of the arc in the hammer where it sits at the top. You can install the new hammer group in the older guns, but will need to get the new ejector and sideplate with the new hole for the sear pin. You can also install the standard hammer group in the X-Calibur by swapping hammers, sears, and sear springs.

If you need a shorter sight, I've got the .145, .160, and .220 on hand.

Bladetech make a specific holster just for the GP6/K100. In a pinch, the Uncle Mikes kydex holster for the Glock 20/21 will; work.

I use them for practice ammo. The quality is good. They feed like Federals in my press. They ARE harder, and I have had rounds fail to fire in practice that always lit off second strike. Next time I use them I will seat them just a bit below flush.

I shot the 4.25 inch GP6 back to back with the SPO1 Shadow using the same ammo, and the GP6(K100) was less snappy in my hands than the all steel gun. That surprised me. I was expecting the opposite.

Don't hate me because I'm beautiful. (or cautious) Keep in mind Canadian import laws are far less restrictive and complicated than the US when it comes to small parts. Where personal exemptions fall short, I got an International Import Certificate from our Department of Foreign Affairs and International Trade for all the barrels, slides, and internal parts I could ever imagine needing. It's free and takes all of a week. On Grand Power's end, I just needed to give them a copy of my ID and a written power of attorney for the Slovak export permit. It's just an insurance policy as I expect any other spare parts I could ever need will probably be in stock with Blueline. For all the public perception of the USA being the gun mecca, it's actually one of the most difficult nations to import and export from. If the parts are legal to import and Century Arms can't help you, contact Blueline Activities in BC as they should be getting thier guns and parts in before December.

Any chance you could hook me up for the X-calibur hammer group before Ryan gets his parts order sorted out? Sorry, I couldn't sell parts that were given to me. If by Ryan you're talking Blueline, they should likely have the first order in before December.

What replacement spring and guide rod are you talking about? Recoil spring? I have myself replaced the OEM spring today with a 12lbs Beretta 92 cut to the same length, making it a 10lbs (+/- .5 lbs). Works a lot better with my load: 147gr @ 133 PF. Grand Power make a steel guide rod for the standard and X-Calibur length slides. I asked for one of each so I could see if they make any noticable difference. I got a replacement recoild spring for both. If you want spare parts that Century Arms are not currently stocking, you will probably have to go to the source, I have no idea how much paperwork is involved to get an import permit in the US, or what the threshold is before one is required. If no permit is required, you should be able to get your parts direct from Grand Power. Mine were shipped on a Friday and at my door before dinner that Monday.

Not with the hammer spring. I got a factory replacement spring and the metal guide rod from my Slovak fairy godfather. After about 8k on my origional, it had become about a centimeter shorter than the replacement. I had forgotten to ask for replacement hammer springs, but wouldn`t consider messing with the weight. I load S&B primers for my practice ammo and they are a bit harder. I compared the new sear spring to the origional. I couldn`t see any difference. I retired the origional sear and hammer as good spares for the range bag, as I upgraded to the newer X-Calibur hammer group. Here are a few comparison pictures. X-Calibur hammer group

Just for clarity, the X-Caliber is on the production list for IPSC. It is under review and not yet on the USPSA production list. If you are shooting in Canada or elsewhere, the X-Cal is good to go.

You may want to have a look at the STI GP6 if you can find one or the more recent Grand Power badged guns brought in by Century Arms. The frame has 4 different backstraps, so it will fit his hand and grow with him. It has a kick ass single action trigger. The recoil is almost non-existant.

Yep, they will be coming.

So for the Europeans etc on the forum, who`s using the new X-Caliber? If you used the K100 before, what did you make of the improved trigger? With any luck, the Canadian distributor should have them in stock before Christmas. (Maybe mid Nov if the stars and moon align.)

These distilled sum it up for me. I don't knock paid spokesmen, but you can just tell the guys who get the product. There is a huge difference between the knowledgeable guy promoting a product, and the guy who truly gets what that product is all about.

The issue of the cost of brass isn't trivial, and if you are starting from scratch it might be wise to find a similar 9mm. That said, in many ways I'd rather shoot SS with a .38 super than a 9mm. Good 10 round magazines for 9mm are easier to find today, but there are still a fair number of feeding issues each owner needs to explore. All things being equal, I'd trust the .38 super to be easier to get running 100% than it's 9mm counterpart.

https://www.federalr...iens-2001r-332p It's not quite as simple as that. However if the students are in the US on a visa instead of a waiver, it looks like they are still SOL. It actually is almost simple as that, and here's the ATF's pamphlet on the topic: http://www.atf.gov/p...f-p-5300-18.pdf There are exceptions, but the general rule is that nonimmigrant aliens may not possess firearms in the United States. Nothing about the law is ever simple, but the policy behind not allowing nonimmigrant aliens to possess firearms is pretty straightforward, as are the exceptions. Self defense isn't among them. The pamphlet you linked was last updated in 2005. My link is a recent revision clarifying some of the issues we've been touching on. It's brutally wordy. Some of the logic is tortured. It's scope is limited to just those non-immigrant aliens who are legally present in the US and who do not require a visa.

https://www.federalregister.gov/articles/2012/06/07/2012-13762/firearms-disabilities-for-certain-nonimmigrant-aliens-2001r-332p It's not quite as simple as that. However if the students are in the US on a visa instead of a waiver, it looks like they are still SOL.

Check the primer plunger and it's spring. My bet is the primer slide is catching it.

This isn't uncommon. I don't know the cause, but for whatever reason the primer itself comes apart. Often the whole top of the primer seperates and the anvil comes out, but left in the primer pocket is a tube. On other presses, you discover the issue when you try to mash a primer into the obstructed pocket. On the 1050, you tend to clue in something is wrong when you find a sudden increase in pressure at the bottom of the stroke. In most cases, you won't have been able to reach the normal bottom of the stroke, so the case currently at the priming station will have a high primer.

I recall stories about guys during WWII using small pistol primers in .22 Hornet. That might be fine for very low pressure ammo, but like the rest here I suspect most times you'd wind up with pierced primers and some signifigant risk.

Frankly, not much. You are not going to fix him, and wasting too much effort on him detracts from your day. Create a void in the universe, and allow him to drop into the void. When he speaks, listen to the wind. When he acts out, study the targets. He's accidently occupying the same range. You may have to intentionally not let that matter.

The obvious checks include; 1) Is the casefeeder plunger the correct size for your case? 2) Is the casefeeder plunger clean and the correct adapter used? 3) Is the shellplate snug enough? 4) Are you allowing the handle to race on the upstroke? A less obvious cause is as Braxton mentions, is your bench solid? A weak bench that allows the press to move will cause you headaches.

And that was my "hate" I could care less what people do to themselves, but this is a whole parade of fail. I don't care if they are/were unhappy with thier spouses. Thier solution lead to a probably loss of face, professional esteem, and a ton of hurt for thier kids. There were ways to achieve the same result with far less drama and suffering.