Canuck223

And giving me one seriously awesome leverage point for shooting the 2013 Bianchi Cup.

If he meant cycle too fast, I'd agree. I got to try Police Ordnance's factory demo G18, and as fast as I could get off the trigger, I had 5 rounds down range. Silly fast cyclic rate.

I used to reload for friends. I still do at times but only with thier hands on involvement. I tend to process brass in bulk, and have a few pails of sized and primed brass sitting around. If a friend needs ammo, I'll bring the chronograph to the range and let them check my standard load in thier gun. From there we can adjust the powder to suit thier gun and needs. They are involved and make the final decisions, and are behind the controls while the powder goes in and the bullets are seated.

So in one of those moments of boredom, I traded off the STI Spartan my kids no longer cared for on a S&W Model 58. It arrived Friday and yesterday I detail cleaned it. For a 35+ year old police trade-in revolver, there's little internal wear. The exterior is showing wear, but with the sideplates off, the gun looks new. I took everything out and gave it a good cleaning. Old grease/oil and fouling were removed and the parts themselves looked near perfect. Only a few scratches on the hammer were present. When I reassembled it, of course I had to play with the strain screw. As a 1911 guy, my revolver time is limited to the few years I used to shoot PPC. One thing I observed could be normal, but I was finding it for the first time. With the strain screw backed out two full turns, the arch of the mainspring was reduced to a point where the tip of the mainspring was making contact with the back of the hammer as the trigger was approaching it's DA release point. Tightened fully, it still seems to cam on this surface when cocked to single action. Stupid question of the day, but when I first grabbed the gun and practiced DA trigger while maintaining a sight picture, I realized that I was holding the gun high thumb. The tips of my thumbs were resting just behind the recoil shield. I know when I started shooting 20+ years ago, I used to hold with a low thumb grip. Now I'm wondering if it matters. What say the hive mind?

Stupid me, I assumed that S&W parts were specific to frame size. Today while investigating getting a replacement trigger for my N frame, I noticed that one in Brownells mentioned it was common to the K/L/N frames. So what other parts are common?

The idea of draft dodging to me is abhorrent. I don't particularly like the idea of conscription either, although universal mandatory military service has some appeal. I have little respect for those last minute Mennonites, who discover that military service is fine right up until there's a chance of fighting.

Not sure..... I'd have to suspect that the bullet would be out of the barrel before the gun starts recoiling, even with lighter springs. When the weather gets warmer I'll do more testing to see if it holds up. Short of an unlocked breech open bolt gun, I would tend to think you are correct.

The arm is included in the kit with the 650, regardless of whether you got the casefeeder itself. Thank-You! That was one bit of information I was wondering about. Now I need to double check that the tube that the cases slide down is the same part number.

For tax purposes, I believe some not for profit clubs have to be wary. When a large portion of club revenue comes from non-members, it might be an easy leverage point when dealing with nuisance neighbours. In some cases, the worst a club might have to fear is a change in tax rate or corporation status. Depending on the individual situation, that might not be a horrible outcome. For other clubs, they might be enjoying a reduced property tax rate based on being a not for profit F&G type association. It's a pretty hard whallop to the pocket book if the irate neighbours trigger an IRS audit, creating a potential drain of cash for income taxes and an increase in property taxes. As for barring non-members, I think it is short sighted. If space and time is limited, and members are being squeezed out, I can see reserving a large block of slots for the home club, but not an outright ban.

My suggestion is that any difference in actual velocity is zip, zilch, zero. However, I do know a certain mod on this forum who used to try to cause coronarys by holding the gun loose when running the chrono station. The differnence between a firm grip and a loose grip could shave a few fps of the reported velocity. I'm sure any noted difference is related to the shooter and not the load.

I hate to sound like an ass, but I'd work from the other end of the equation. Pick the gun you prefer, and the cartridge that suits it (and your needs) best. If your prefered gun will work with .38 Super, I'd go with it over 9 x 21.

So I caught myself in an assumption so old and unchallenged, I just assumed it was true without question. When the 650 came on the market, priced without the "optional" but ridiculous to do without casefeeder, I assumed it was because many 1050 users might be looking for a cheaper press and could share the casefeeder they already owned. Now I'm wondering, it that true and does that work? I have a 1050. I'm tooling up for an oddball caliber, and now am wondering.... Anyone else share a casefeeder between your 1050 and 650? If so, did you simply buy the stand seperately, or did you need to get creative?

Do your due dilligence first. 1) Is your casefeeder adapter the correct one? (white with the pin) 2) Is your casefeeder plunger the correct size? (Small) 3) Is your shellplate on properly? (Hand tight then backed of 1/16th a turn) 4) Are you controlling the handle on the way up? What is the press actually doing? Does the case stall before going into the shellplate? Is it going in at an angle and falling out?

I'm using the small pistol primers. They seem very consistant. They feed through my Dillon press and primer tube feeder as good or better than Federals. Up here, I've yet to hear a negative report and the price tends to be $7-10 less than Federals.

In truth, it was a good day.

The prime reason nobody has mentioned it, is because the warranty isn't an issue. If you can't kill a 1050 in the first year, by the time a part on it dies it will have given you so much value, you won't begrudge replacing it. I've owned 2 different 1050's over the last 10 years. So far the only part I've managed to break was a part I consider an expected wear item anyway, the indexing pawl. If you keep the press clean and adjusted, lube it as suggested, and don't abuse it, the 1050 should last your lifetime and possibly your kids.

If I'm reading the situation correctly, you need a means to deal with safety issues without creating chaos and upheaval. No change happens without a little bit of chaos and a tiny bit of upheaval. Calling every member back in for retraining is a huge undertaking, and frankly an insult to the members who are not creating the problem. My suggestion is to consider the following. 1) Send every member a letter, outlining the issues and concerns. Include a copy of the range rules, and any range specific considerations and hazards. 2) Require every member to wear a club membership card while on the property. 3) Recruit a core of calm, respectful, broad shouldered individuals to monitor the range use and where needed, document incidents of unsafe behavior, and address them on the spot. 4) Remind every member that it's thier property at risk, and to address concerns with the member, and with the board if needed. 5) Follow through on the reports. Yep, smacks of range nazi's. Part of the problem is in the large clubs, there can be a sense of anonimity. When members know that they are not only accountable for thier actions, and liable to be dealt with if they forget themselves, things tend to improve.

If you have a 1050 set up for .40, you might as well spring for the second toolhead for .357 Sig.

If you can afford it, go 1050.

One of the reasons plated bullets get a bad rap is reloading technique. (Let's be clear, they are not equal to jacketed) Many reloaders still feel the need to use a substantial crimp. Lead and most jacketed bullets can tolerate this. Plated bullets often will not. With crimping, the case mouth is being pressed into the thin plating and can create a weakness or crack. Once extruded through the barrel, that crack can turn into a tear and shed jacket material. Instead of a group, you wind up with a pattern. Case wall tension alone should hold them in place. The crimp die needs to return the case mouth belling to flush.

Got a picture of the cans??

Tomorrow i'm driving my dad 2.5 hours to his hometown. We'll get to catch up with a bunch of family that we rarely get to see. If the reason wasn't his brothers funeral, I'd be thinking it has the makings of a swell day.

The good(?) news is I believe Darvon and it's preparations were removed from the market. My understanding is that it was at least according to my letter from the VA. I've never needed it, but I believe it's still available up here. If i got the story right, the FDA were concerned about some respiratory complications in a small number of patients. The US based doctor i heard it from was PO'd about it. While not as potent as the opiates, he would prescribe it to some of his patients who had negative reactions to codiene. For some older folks, having a healthy dump in the morning was more important than a bit of pain.

Welcome on board. I'm assuming you are also on CGN?

The good(?) news is I believe Darvon and it's preparations were removed from the market.