Canuck223

I like the Fontier's, may i ask who or where you are getting them from at this time? Marstar, but I cleaned them out of their last remaining 147's a month ago. I was told that it would be at least a year before they get anymore bullets in. There is another importer for Frontier Bullets in Ontario, and I doubt you'll see Marstar carrying them again. Give me a shout if you need the number.

I'm sure Robby will produce something better, but in the mean time I'll exploit my 11 year old cameraman and try to get something up. http://s455.photobucket.com/user/Canuck223/media/GP6/X-Calibur/DSCF1743_zpsfc6a1b9a.mp4.html So Cecil B DeDaddy asked Jacob to try to focus between my shoulders. I should have perhaps added the suggestion that he try to keep the gun in the center.... Not perfect, but he works for Skittles....

With my new guns I could sometimes get the effect you mention, but never while shooting. Sort of like rubbing your slide with your thumb, it's nice to know what could happen, but it's more important to avoid the problem. Still if you are playing, take a look. Examine where the slide has to be before the hammer can actually make contact with the firing pin. If the hammer was to fall prior to the barrel rotating fully counter clockwise, would it drive the barrel the rest of the way before recoil started to reverse it's course? I would love to set one up with a 20 round mag and a variable speed cam running the trigger. I suspect it would take a pretty hairy split time to stray into brass bulging territory, if it's even possible. Seriously cool design.

Hi Robby, I just bought my pistol from j&G a few weeks back and I was just curious, when I tried to pull down the trigger guard, it will not pivot down, the plastic will just bend a little and its not holding it open as I let go thus its very hard to take of the slide. Is this normal ?do any of you guys experienced this? any help would be appreciated. -mark The trigger guard is not a hinge. It's pinned in place by the mag catch tube and the trigger guard pin. The trigger guard also acts as a built in shock buff, so there has to be a little flex. When the gun is brand new and it's unfamiliar to you, it can seem hard. Like Rebsimeanblackbears mentions, you can push it a little to the side to hold. One exercise I recommend to get to know the gun, is this, Pop the trigger guard down, but don't pull it out of the frame. Draw the slide back and try to hold it while you gently pull the trigger guard enough to allow the slide to come back the rest of the way. It doesn't need to be completely out of the frame. It's sort of like reassembling a 1911, and trying to get the link in the right position. It's not hard, except when it's new to you.

Familiar chorus, scream at Century. Now to be honest, the recoil springs in the K100 last a hell of a lot longer than in a 1911. I took the origional out of my Mk6 and compared it to a brand new spring. 10K in live fire and the origional spring was only half a coil shorter.

Grand Power do have a 10 round magazine. It's all us poor schmucks in Canada can get. They are full length tubes, dimpled front and back but not lazer cut. The DA slicks up nicely with use. When you take the gun apart for detail cleaning, you will see where the trigger bow comes close to the frame insert. There should be no signifigant rub marks inside the bow or on the exterior of the insert. It should glide over the insert freely with the safety lever detents acting as a glider.

How difficult are you expecting the mag modification to be? I'd buy that drill press, but I'm worried it'd have to be more exact than I'm capable of... If you need to modify a magazine, I'd try to find these first. http://czcustom.com/mgccz7517afc.aspx As far as I know, Mec-Gar are the OEM supplier and the hole already on the front of the magazine should be in the right spot to open up with a window file. Still strongly recommend you pester JGSales and Century. Let them know there is a demand.

Here is what the frame insert looks like when removed from the frame. It's built sort of like the STI 2011, with all the major parts held in the CNC machined steel frame. (The plastic "frame" is really just a grip} The hammer spring is contained within the hammer, The left pin in the picture is the hammer pivot pin. The right is the hammer spring pin. If you can get spares, you can possibly cut a coil to see if that helps, but like always, you will eventually be risking poor ignition.

When it comes to magazines, seriously, call Century. For holsters, How do you like this?

Short answer, you need to try it for yourself. I had reservations when I saw the changes. Kinda like changing your mothers lasagna recipe, I couldn't envision making it better than it was already. I got the hammer group to retrofit my Mk6 and wasn't sure what to make of it. I still had a MK6 trigger bow, and actually had more tension on the sear spring than needed. Now I have the genuine article in my hand, and I'm loving it. The standard K100 trigger is like a tuned 1911 should be. The single action is crisp and light, and the reset is unbelievably short. The X-Calibur hammer group uses a changed geometry. The sear is moved up. The hammer drops the half cock notch. The net effect is the trigger is very light, but there is more movement prior to the break. The feel is smooth and clean, and results in a perfect surprise break. The reset is longer than the K100, but you can see from the pictures that the forward travel to reset isn't huge. I've set up my spare X-Calibur with the K100 hammer group so I can try them back to back for an honest evaluation. My gut tells me the X-Calibur parts will be going back in. Fortunately, it's not an all or nothing proposition. If you have a 2011 or later Grand Power, you can install either hammer group. Here is a mirror image of the two hammer groups. On the left is the K100. It also shows the firing pin safety lever not used on the X-Calibur.

No, but if you like fixed sights, look at the K100 X-Trim.

OK, so this one isn't mine. The factory went all out for one of the juniors on the Canadian team. This would be mine. Family shot.

Enjoy. It is a great gun for the price. Big draw back right now is the lack of magazines on the after market. We really need to look into drilling CZ mags. That's exactly what I'm planning on doing...if I'm ever to use this for competition. I've got the MecGar CZ mags with the round hole where (it looks like) the square on the K100 mags are. That was part of the agreement I made with myself (that I would be in only for the gun and the sights...didn't really NEED a new Production gun.) A little bird suggested that if you are looking for magazines, call, phone, fax, and e-mail Century and J&G without mercy and don't stop until they reply. There are wider safetys being tested, but none are in production yet. I keep asking, but the answer is still the same. "Not until Jaroslav is happy with them." I've got about 2k on mine X-Calibur right now. I don't know when Century will be able to get it approved by BATFE, but you will love it. If you already have a K100, shoot the piss out of it. If you don't, buy one.

The recoil is largely straight back. Odds are you're still waiting for the sights to settle, when they are already on target. Bill Drill yourself silly.

I'm going to be interested to see how the locking block holds up.

Rob, CK1 and others have hit on one issue that has been at the top of my list for years. The K100 is an unbelieveable value, and I can't believe how under appreciated it is. When you compare it's retail cost and then take a serious look at the competition, this gun is a sleeping tiger.

No, but if you're talking about a small-frame Tanfo, I bet if you added the notch/hole in the front it would work (used to have one and the mags were just like CZ mags). Correctamundo, Small frame Tanfo mags will work if you get the hole in the front of the mag right. Mec Gar mags for the CZ often have a hole in the right spot that just needs to be opened up a bit with a window file.

You are correct sir, never drove the pin out all the way and missed it. I should've looked at it with it all the way out (I'm a dumb-ass ). You would be in good company. I rarely clear the roll pin. I just drift it enough to clear the firing pin.

Awesome outcome!

If the parts you've listed look perfect, but the pin is still sticking forward, I'd be looking at the channel itself with a good light. The only cause I can imagine that matches your description would be a hidden burr on the channel catching on the pin.

If you do take it apart, I really want to know what you find. Yes, I'm the resident fan boy for the brand, but if you got a lemon, I really want to know what went wrong. I haven't heard of this type of problem with the Grand Power before, and would like to know the source.

Have you taken the firing pin out before this problem happened? (No, not suggesting you f-ed it up, but want to trouble shoot the problem) The first time I took mine out to detail clean the slide, I tried to install the firing pin upside down, thinking that the firing pin safety engaged the pin on the opposite side. I don't think you can actually seat the retaining pin to install it backwards. I could potentially see the firing pin safety being re-installed with it's spring in the wrong position. It would likely bind, and not spring back freely. If it's not being used as a carry gun and you want real answers, press the firing pin retaining pin out, depress the firing pin safety, and remove the firing pin. Then you can remove the firing pin safety. If possible, post pictures of the parts. You can run the gun without the firing pin safety, and if only to trouble shoot this problem, I'd suggest you give it a try even if just at the bench. Let me know how it goes or what happens.

Look at where the mag is retained in this design. High and central at the front of the mag. Right up until the last 1/4 inch of home, there's no real advantage to it being tight. With a barrel moving straight forward and back, the angle the round is presented could probably be a wee bit more variable than a Browning style and still function 100%. My guess is the inner ridges are more to fill in the void than anything else. The grip has to hold the magazine in the right position, anchor the trigger pivot, and house the frame insert. Since nobody wants 100% contact between the mag walls and the wag well, the ridges are probably dimentioned to stiffen and hold the magazine as solidly as required while still shedding any dirt, etc.

Check the baseplate of the suspect mag. Look to see if it's tight to the frame by comparison to it's brothers. There is sweet F-all to bind in the mag well, and even with the dimples front and rear it should not be catching. I have seen baseplates that were a tad thick cause trouble seating. Could also be too tight to release I suppose.

I hear a lot of people saying CZs are great for production, but I can't figure out what makes them better than a XD, M&P or Glock. Outside the US, meaning IPSC rules, the Shadow was/is very popular because a few reasons but "I think" the biggest one was the magazine capacity or 19 rounds. Until recently, IPSC didn’t have a capacity limitation like USPSA. So, 19 vs 15 or 17...Shadow wins. Now, the IPSC production limit has be set at 15 rounds (I think) and that levels the playing field a bit. The other thing to remember about IPSC rules and Production, if it ain't out of the box stock, it's not kosher. Yes, there are some very limited modifications possible, but essentially what you shoot is what came out of the factory box un-altered. In that regard, the SP01 Shadow was leading the pack due to ergonomics, trigger feel, and magazine capacity. With a magazine loading cap, it's still a good pick.