Canuck223

Anyone else notice the scores on the plate rack? It looks like that would have been a fun place to hang out and watch a few individuals. I'm just hoping he got applause when he finished his last pass.

Unless you expect to be walking away from shooting relatively soon, consider the money spent on your reloading equipment more of an investment than a cost. Spend wisely, and buy the best you can afford. If needs be, save a little longer. Compromises you make now on your equipment might save you money up front. They will also cost you in terms of quality, time, and more cash for replacement later.

The way my wife and I deal with BS like this is simple. We recognize first and foremost that our responsibility is to each other and our household first. We recognize that when outside pressures or demands exist, we act as a group, not as individuals. We recognize that even when one has already formed an intention or plan, we feign the need to confer with our spouse, even if it is just to lay out our needs privately. I hate in-laws without boundaries, but I can only manage them, I can't fix them.

Hmm, you have a point. Maybe a handicap parking placard for his chair is in order. Anyone have a walker to loan for range days like this???

That's what I used to do. In the scorekeepers role, I'd repeat the time I was reading, followed by "Got it". On longer stages where the scorekeeper (and the shooters designated eyeballs) are trailing and scoring, I'd call it out and have it repeated back.

Yep. You go on being you. He goes on being him. The universe has a way of finding balance. Do as you must. He can interpret your actions as he pleases.

Ponsness Warren

For loading in my old AR, I would size the cases in the Dillon carbide dies first, and adjust them using the case guage. Then I had the RT1200 adjusted to hold the neck only. I used boat tailed bullets, so the RT1200's lack of an expanding ball wasn't an issue.

So far, stupidity has cost me one shellplate. Inattention cost me one bolt for the casefeeder slide. Normal wear has eaten a few springs. OCD cost me a new primer punch. I strip it down for a good cleaning regularly. I drift the bearings and grease them at least yearly. I've never tried to disassemble beyond that point. If (or when) I kill any parts with the autodrive, it will be an adventure.

On another forum, the old chestnut about the 1050 warranty came up. My question to other 1050 owners is this: Aside from normal wear items like magazine tips and springs, what parts on your 1050 have broken, or what parts have you managed to kill through use? My standard line of thinking is that by the time you manage to bust a part on the 1050, it will have given such long service that you won't care about the cost of replacement. Agree, or do you have a less favourable experience?

Ever been married? :devil: After asking two follow up clarification questions, silence was my response. After a day at work I returned home and found the dog and not my belongings waiting for me at the door. It seems to have taken a few hours to sink in, but it appears she might have recognized the answer was known before she asked...

Yep. Clean it. Inspect the tip for burrs. Check the spring to see if it's in one piece. Check the cylinder between station 2-3 for debris and clean it. If you are ordering parts, buy a spare plunger and spring. (Look at the size and weight of the primer rocker arm, the plunger, and the cylinder that the tool head engages. That's a lot of weight for a small spring.

You know the type.

Yep, if he's a member in good standing in his home section, he's good to go here. A cover letter from his section co-ordinator is about all anyone would ask for. An e-mail to the BC co-ordinator would do just as well.

I tend to agree. I can't imagine any other cause that wouldn't also result in bullets being seated at irregular depths. The pin in the tool head can back out. More than a few owners leave an allen wrench in the thing wedged between two dies to serve as a visual guide and a check against movement. Still, this pin creeping back should only produce high primers, not a sudden change as described by the OP.

If Dawson Precision can't help you, and you can't find one in the US, PM me.

I was taking my boys to it today, but the 2D theater was sold out.

I met my wife while I was in high school. Lori was a friend of a girl I worked with at the local grocery store. We dated on and off for a few years. When she graduated, an RN couldn't find a job in Ontario, so she wound up in Texas, Florida, South Carolina, then Texas again. Fate shone, the job market for nurses opened up in Ontario just as other circumstances suggested a move home was wise. That was 13 years ago this month. Three kids and two houses later...

When there is a greater difference between retail price and the cost of production, it also provides room for competition. Brand loyalty is one thing, but price the competiton $10-15 less a case.....

My suggestion is simple. Mount the 1050 to the bench and test drive it for a month. Then revisit this thread and tell us which, if any you'll be parting with. As for the concern that the 1050 will somehow be a more costly item to keep running, I have to say that's not really a concern. The parts that you might have to replace due to wear are cheap. (As in I doubt you'd spend $25 in a year.) The parts that might eventually fail due to fatigue will have given you such great service that I doubt you'd care about the $$ to replace them. For the record, I've owned 1050's for 10 years. The only parts I've needed to replace were toolhead springs ($8), and the indexing pawl and spring ($5)

I actually don't use oil at all with mine. I use grease, sparingly. I fill a syringe with it and apply a drop on the cam pin, the front top corner of the frame insert rails, and smear one along the rear outside edge of the chamber end of the barrel.

Have you got the RL 1050, or the Super 1050? The PW kit seems to work for the Supers, but not so well on the older machines. On the Super 1050, it works fine for swaging.

If you can afford it, you have nothing to lose by buying the 625 and trying them back to back.

I've ordered one to test drive. I'm shooting a S&W 58 in .41 Mag, so finding open top pouches for the HKS speedloaders isn't easy.

Yep, it won't work. Without a back up rod supporting the case from the inside, you are as likely to bend case rims and break shellplates. Unless you want to design a tiny cutter with a vacuum diaphram, it's a non-starter IMHO.