Canuck223

Just a guess until I hear direct, but I suspect all the 9mm, .22lr, .40 and .45 models. The new website still has some translation and spelling problems, but it is definitely an improvement.

http://www.grandpower.eu/en/kategoria-14-clanok-140-detail-k22-x-trim-#ad-image-2 The new safety feels great. It's the rimfire model I'm jonesing for at the moment.

Oh, what joy awaits in my in-box. Stand by for specifics, but it looks like ATF approved a bunch of models. When I can share, you'll know.....

Yes, as far as I know the plan is to bring the entire line up to the US. The problem as I understand it is getting BATFE import approval. http://www.atf.gov/files/forms/download/atf-f-5330-5.pdf Have a look at the points list and ask yourself, how many imported guns have been modified to fit this list.

I can't speak for Clays, as I only ever used the Clays Universal. You'd have to experiment with the OAL, as I never tried the Berrys 124gr HP. I'm told the Zero 125g JHP-C can be an ornery cuss to get to feed in some guns. Loaded longer than 1,142 in mine I had a few hang ups, and again when shorter than 1.125.

Thank you Down Under man. It's very embarrassing to admit but it seems I was getting some longer mixed brass than I had set the sizing die for. It must have been barely binding up @ the end of the down stroke to a level I can't perceive. That's the way my opinion is leading now. I pulled the sizing die & ran 100 presized cases through. 99 out of 100 perfectly seated primers. The single failure was a crimped case that snuck in & because I have the swage rod backed out of the equation I of course crushed it @ the primer seating station. Again, super embarrassing to find out I was probably ranting at my own simple setup failure but if it helps the next guy when he's searching for why the hell his press isn't working . . . Precisely. We learn from our mistakes.

http://calgary.ctvnews.ca/18-year-old-jonny-sniezek-is-a-champion-shooter-1.1343385 Rare and refreshing to have good press about a junior shooter with no talk about politics.

Slower burning powers tend to be cleanest when near the top end of their pressure curve. I find Viht N320 to be my best option. It's clean and right in the ballpark. 4.3gr with 125g Zero jhp-c at 1.142 One thing you may want to try to keep your K100 running far longer between detail cleanings, kinda goes against the grain. I was always told to avoid getting oil near the breech face and firing pin hole. In the 1911, and traditional tilting barrel designs, it's good advice. However, take a look at the bearing surfaces on the K100 barrel. There is a huge portion of the rear of the barrel that is in contact with the area around the breech face as the gun goes into battery. I put a thin film of oil on the rear of the barrel where it contacts the slide.

I confess, that's a new one. Does it do it with any of the other back straps?

Up here we can only get the dimpled 10 round mags. The followers are a deep orange. PM me with your e-mail address. I've had several conversations on the go. I wouldn't want to have missed one.

The last word I got came direct from Grand Power. Century received a huge shipment of mags at least a month ago. Check out one of the juniors on the Canadian team rocking his X-Calibur. Jonathon sure can rock the trigger.

J&G should have them.

I have found the same in pistol brass. It's a bitch. It's the main reason I pre-process my brass and leave the swager in the press even when running mostly 2F brass. If I find one, it will be at the swaging station as the case is rudely stuffed up out of the shellplate, bending or tearing the rim. Better to find it here than at the priming station where the new primer will be crushed trying to occupy the same space and the ring.

Grand Power do have a decocking hammer group but it's not in the US yet.

Running any gun dry and dirty can cause you a world of trouble. The K100 is no exception. If you start with a clean and well oiled gun, it will run like a scalded cat. I suspect if you used high speed photography to film any number of modern guns firing, you'd notice a similar effect. There is always a brief period during ignition where the case has not fully sealed the chamber. The K100 has a smaller feed ramp than many guns due to the near straight line feeding. The only thing any of my 4 Grand Power guns has thrown at me was oil when I may have been a little over generous. Every firearm is unique when it comes to the chrony. If I was to take identical ammo and chronograph 10 guns as they came off the line, I would expect to find similarities, but doubt I would get exactly the same results.

As far as I know, LHS is the only current supplier of molded kydex holsters specificly for the X-Calibur, and I don't know of anyone doing them in leather right now. For the K100, there is also I believe Falco based in SR that make leather holsters. Where ever you get your holster, ask if it's molded on the new slide profile. The new guns have no taper to the muzzle as in previous versions.

I replied to the other post as well. Grand Power Romania are great to deal with. If you are close enough, try out one at their indoor range. (It may be limited to the 9PA and 10x28 models.) From your description, you want the K100 and not the X-Calibur. The X-Calibur trigger is great, and not fragile or unsafe to carry hammer down. If I understand Romanian gun law, odds are your gun will be custom ordered from the factory and imported for you. I'd order the Dynamic model. It's rear sight is much nicer for target shooting and smooth enough not to snag on your clothes. If you want, you can order it with the Target trigger which feels much better for target shooting, and will not be a problem for you in the bush. See Pavel at LHS Holsters just south of you in Varna for a decent holster. His Falcon model will protect the front sight. Tell him his Canadian brother said hello.

Grand Power Romania are great to deal with. When it comes to the service life of a pistol, I'm a little cold blooded. In all likelihood you will have spent several times the value of the gun on ammunition before wearing it out to the point of retirement. Grand Power is like many companies when it comes to gun warrantys. In practice, they tend to go above and beyond the printed warranty. If snagging the sights and dirt infiltration is a concern, go for the K100. As a left handed shooter, you will appreciate that all the controls including the mag release work from both sides without the need to switch. If you need a holster for it, talk to my friend Pavel just south of your border in Varna. Tell him Dave says hello....

The X-Calibur is not yet available on the US market. In an appropriate holster, I don't see why you couldn't use it as you describe, but I suspect the K100 would be more appropriate. The stock rear sight on the K100 is snag resistant and the unscalloped slide is less likely to allow dirt to enter at the wrong time. Grand Power do have a decocking hammer group developed, but it is not shipping yet as far as I know. I believe it is a drop in system for the K100. I will post a review when I can get one to play with.

Some advice in no particular order. 1) Unless there is something broken, leave the trigger and trigger bow in the frame. When the insert is out, you can pop out the safety detents and pivot the trigger bow up to clean it and the inside of the frame. 2) Unless there is something broken, leave the pin above the mag button alone. Same goes for the tube that the mag button sits in. 3) The mag buttons don't break, and you can press the stock model out with the new big button version. 4) Take the slide stop pin and the rear frame pin out before trying to remove the safety levers. Pull the insert up just a little while the hammer is back, and rotate the right side lever with your finger nails( only) prying it out to the side. If you are using a screwdriver from the inside, you are likely using too much force. 5) Decock the hammer before putting the insert back in the frame. This makes it easier as the trigger bar now isn't liable to be blocking the path.

http://shop.lhsholsters.com/lhs-rapid-draw-p-40.html Tell Pavel that Dave sent you.

I'm sure someone far more clever than myself can figure out how to get them in without removing the trigger guard in the process. E-mail inbound.

If you have already taken that pin out, yes, your best bet is to pull the trigger guard and replace it correctly. There is a simple tool to remove and re-install the metal tube that houses the mag catch. It protects the frame from damage and protects the tube from being distorted. I can loan you one. You also need a 2mm or equivalent punch to take out the mag catch pin. To re-install, you insert the mag catch and it's spring into the trigger guard and hold them in place with a short assembly pin like you suggested. The trigger guard is inserted back into the frame, and the tube is re inserted using the tool. The mag catch pin is re-installed, pushing the assembly pin with it. Then the mag catch is held out with a flat screwdriver blade and the mag button in installed. I have a video but it's too large a file to load into my photobucket account. Start to finish it's a 4 minute job.

The mag catch and spring are held in place by the pin you see above the mag catch. Unless either are broken, leave that pin alone. To replace the mag button with the larger button model, the simple way is to just press the original mag button in, and then just a little past flush. You can then use the big button mag release to press the old one out. If you are frustrated, just field strip the gun, and put the new mag release into the correct side of the support tube. With a flat screwdriver coming from the top of the mag well, you should be able to pull the tip of the mag catch backwards enough to press the button through.

I have used Break Free, Miltec, bearing grease, and once ATF right off the trucks dipstick. I haven't found one that didn't work. When the conditions are not dusty or super cold, I have run my MK6 for 1000+ using plain old green bearing grease smeared lightly on the cam path and at the barrels contact points. I know Jaroslav has suggested breaking the gun in with the synthetic oil used for diesel engines. My advice is try what you are comfortable with. Overclean the gun at first if only to see where the oil and powder fouling seems to accumulate, what might seem to be running dry, what seems to need less care, etc. If nothing else it will build up your comfort with the system.