Canuck223

i don't even see the gun listed anymore. Has it been dropped?? I read somewhere that the MK7 has ceased production for the MK12. The company seems to come out with a new make every couple years. Its quite frustrating for parts if they make major changes. Grand Power is very much like Dillon Precision when it comes to parts. Most of the time if a change is made, the parts are backwards compatible. If they are not, they keep the older parts in stock and will make more if required. The only major change between the Mk7 and Mk12 is the grip frame. The Mk12 has a solid trigger guard and a take down lever.

Small, it's .080.

http://s455.photobucket.com/user/Canuck223/media/GP6/X-Calibur/GRANDPOWERk100inaction_zps2f79b522.mp4.html Have a look at the K100 as it fires using high speed photography. Notice how little the gun seems to move until the slide reaches the limit of it's travel.

Yep, the P1 uses the identical frame, but the slide is slightly shorter and is flush with the end of frames dust cover. The barrel is about 1/2 inch shorter. The picture below is of the decocker model, not the standard version.

I have high hopes for this one when it arrives. It uses the identical frame to the X-Calibur or K100, same trigger, etc. Besides being in rimfire, the only thing that sets it apart from it's centerfire brother is a barrel pinned to the frame insert. I like the idea of a rimfire training gun, especially for the winter months. Doesn't do much good to bother with a glorified toy version.

I've tried cutting one coil from the hammer spring, and had no ignition problems myself. However, I can't use that modification while shooting under IPSC rules. I'm working on some factory options. Hold on. These things do take time.

Is this comp stuff, or just replacement parts? Replacement sear, just in case I mess up if I attempt to polish it. Trigger is factory with less curve. I really love the Target trigger, and have them in my X-Caliburs. The face of the trigger is flatter so it feels lighter. The slightly square edge is easier to index on as I press out on the first DA shot. When installing the Target Trigger, you may have to snip a tiny bit off the tip of the trigger return spring. The arm that goes under the trigger pivot pin can protrude about 1/16th inch and prevent the trigger from traveling back far enough to release the sear. Unless you have something like the Powers Custom sear and hammer jig to hold the sear and hammer in the right position, I don't recommend touching those parts. If you have the tools and skills to hold the parts true and stone the engagement surfaces to an even finer polish, have fun. Just understand that if you shorten the sears working edge, you increase the weight. If you cause the sear to sit closer to the hammer, you will lose a working safety in the process.

Agreed. I'd be pulling the barrel out and chamber checking the ammo. I'd be interested to see if it is the case or the bullet making contact.

One tip... If you are like me, you were trained to never get oil near the breach face. On the K100, the rear of the barrel slides on the area around the breach face while the barrel and slide unlock/lock. I make sure when oiling the locking surfaces of the barrel to get a thin film on the rear of the barrel.

I think so, it shot great from k100 and stock 2. Berrys 124gn hbrn-tp, vv n320 4.2 gn, 1.130 oal, federal spp. Need to chrono k100, stock 2 clocked at 130 pf That should be right on the money.

http://s455.photobucket.com/user/Canuck223/library/GP6?sort=3&page=2

As Century seem useless for spare parts, check out the factory website. www.grandpower.eu The FO sight set from GP come with .140 / .160 /.220 high front sights with a 1.5mm FO The Dynamic rear sight is nice.

The gap you are describing doesn't sound right, and it's not what I would expect so that's why I asked about pictures. As you hinted, for accuracy, the big factor is the repeatable lock up while in battery. Outside of battery, the gun can be AK-47 loose without any negative effect on accuracy. The MK7 guns outside of the X-Calibur and X-Trim are built to be somewhat Glockish in their tolerances. Not sloppy, but built for reliable functioning in service conditions first.

I'm assuming you are talking about the safety detent? They are pressed into the grip from the outside. You can pop them right out during a full teardown, but if you just push them out a little you can clean the inside of the grip and the trigger bow. As for servicing the trigger, my advice is to leave it alone, besides cleaning off any carbon or caked oil/grease from the trigger bow. If you screw with the trigger return spring, you will find yourself with a non-functional gun. The trigger spring provides the upward lift to the trigger bow. If that upward pressure isn't sufficient, the trigger bow can't grab the hammers DA hooks or the sear. The trigger pivot pin is headed, so it only goes in from the left side and must be removed from the right. It also holds the trigger return spring in place, so reassembly is easiest with a slave pin.

I've never seen one with the type of slide - frame insert gap you describe. Post a picture if possible.

I'd make a point of checking the firing pin and spring every 5-10K.You just drive the roll pin out from right to left. (Drift it out entirely and check for roll pin distortion from dry firing.) Press the firing pin safety up and the firing pin will pop out. To take out the extractor, use a punch or allen wrench about the same size as the hole at the rear. Press it in to depress the retaining plunger, then while pressing it down, pull it forward to remove the ejector. The retainer has a spring under it. The best way I've found to ensure it all goes together perfectly, is use a pin. To replace the mag release with the large button model, just use the new one to chase out the old. Press the mag button in as far as it normally goes, then just a little more. Push it out with the small end of the big button version. Have you ever tried any trigger job on it? For IPSC Production, we have to use the gun as is. You have to tread lightly when playing with the trigger on the K100. Just like in a 1911, if you try and polish the sears working edge, take great care not to shorten it. If you reduce the height, you also increase the weight. If you reduce the thickness of the sears working edge, you have to make sure you don't increase it's distance from the safety cylinder. If that happens, your safety will not work, or the hammer can fall when you turn the safety off if the trigger has been pressed. My suggestion for slicking up the trigger is get the factory Sport trigger and a spare hammer spring. The Sport trigger is less rounded and a little straighter at the tip so it feels lighter. You can cut one coil from the hammer spring and still usually have perfect ignition with a lighter DA weight. (Have a spare on hand.)

I have found some of the new base pads to be a bit thick, but I swapped them out for the rubber bonded CZ versions.

I'd make a point of checking the firing pin and spring every 5-10K. You just drive the roll pin out from right to left. (Drift it out entirely and check for roll pin distortion from dry firing.) Press the firing pin safety up and the firing pin will pop out. To take out the extractor, use a punch or allen wrench about the same size as the hole at the rear. Press it in to depress the retaining plunger, then while pressing it down, pull it forward to remove the ejector. The retainer has a spring under it. The best way I've found to ensure it all goes together perfectly, is use a pin. To replace the mag release with the large button model, just use the new one to chase out the old. Press the mag button in as far as it normally goes, then just a little more. Push it out with the small end of the big button version.

No. When the Mk12 guns start shipping, they will come to the US. I just don't know when Grand Power will switch over the 9mm frames. All the .40 and .45 models will have the solid trigger guards.

Yes, the Mk12 frames will have a solid trigger guard. I'm not sure when the Mk7 frames will be phased out for the 9mm models.

My old Mk5 with the angled trigger guard could fit in an Uncle Mikes holster for the Glock 20/21 but I have never tried the newer models. With the wider trigger guard on the newer guns, I suspect the answer will be no.

The Rapid Draw is being updated. Instead of a kydex belt anchor, LHS is using a machined aluminum anchor that allows a good range of cant adjustment. Problem is unfortunately the supplier for the aluminum preforms has had a setback and they are delayed. My current order at last word was ready to ship weeks ago, but we're waiting on the anchors. The new Grand Powers K100 won't fit well in older STI GP6 holsters. The slides don't have the bevel at the front.

Like the Tanfoglio guns, Grand Powers place in the US is dependant on it's distribution system. Century seem to be too glacial.