sargenv

After reading this thread, I've decided to let open be open and not really restrict anything besides the start with 10+1 and then after the buzzer goes off, load to what you see fit.. Open is Open, serviceable and safe is all I worry about.. if everything goes fubar, well, that's on you This for the Cali Action SG challenge.. Hope to see ya there

The California Action Shotgun Challenge is going to be held Sept 30, 2012 at the Richmond Hotshots action range in Richmond, CA. I've had a yearly local Shotgun only action match for the last few years and always wondered if there might be interest for a bigger match. Well, here it is.. This will be a 6 stage all shotgun match consisting of Shot and slugs.. Shot sizes are anything from 00 buck down to #9, shooter's choice. There will be various steel sizes and types, various clay sizes, and various aerial clays being thrown. There may be any of different challenges to conquer and the scoring will be time plus using EZ-Winscore. There are 4 divisions. Open, Limited, Field, and Cowboy.. the latter two divisions have not been well represented, but I'm hoping a few people step up. There will be separate prize tables for each division. The Rules shall be posted soon. We will likely hold the match to a capacity of ~75 shooters. Since we need to combine two stages on a single bay, we will split squads up into groups of 15 shooters. It has not been decided if we will have dedicated RO's or if we will have RO's on each squad that will be shooting and part of the match staff helping to keep things going. Round count is still unknown but we usually say at most 250 rounds of birdshot/buck and at most 25 slugs though that may change. If you want to be squadded with someone specific, please note that on your entry application and I will do my best to accomodate. As always, the earlier you make your request, the more likely you will be able to shoot with who you want to. If you are sharing a gun, make a note of that on the entry form. The Application is posted Here This is meant as a prize match. I am actively looking for stage sponsors and a match sponsor also. Please contact me via pm if interested. We hope to see you there.

I have a couple of "cowboys in a row" racks.. they use them for SASS shoots where the targets are in a row as opposed to a 6 or 8 plate rack side to side.. Last year I set up two of these racks and then used the Steel USPSA target with a 4" hole cut in the center of it.. Shooters had to knock down the steel in a row but had to squat a bit to make their shot effective (ie get enough lead on the steel) those who tried to hose it without getting in line with the steel about 6 yards behind the USPSA cut with a hole in it, would progressively shoot the steel cowboys lower and lower until they were practically shooting the targets in the feet.. and obviously not getting enough lead on steel to make the last target move. I will likely incorporate that into my annual shotgun only match in Sept '12. The other thing I've used in the past is a static clay behind a self resetting USP.. last year one of my builders put steel pipes behind spring loaded self resetting steel, the only effective way to shoot the pipe was to accurately double tap so that the dwell on the steel being down had a very fast second pattern of shot flying over it and to the pipe behind it.. It caused much gnashing of teeth even among the better shooters.. pump gun guys weren't fast enough to get a second follow up on it and tended to leave targets standing.. I'll never allow something that hard again. You can get clay target holders that mount in swingers.. that adds something interesting to the standard static clay.

Um, I've found that with a little bit of velcro (the fuzzy kind, not the hook part) I was able to modify my 6 pack shotshell belt holders to use 20 gauge loaded ammo. The capacity went up by 1 to 7 rounds from 6... they work fine..

Might want to try the RIMZ moon clips.. no tools neccesary, and if the moon is bent enough to affect reliability, it will usually just break.. I've had many a stepped on RIMZ moon only to have them retain their shape and keep working.. The RIMZ are the polymer clips..

Eh, I always shoot the matches I MD for fun... it just turns out that I'm having so much fun that I generally do well

I ran the numbers on my home swaged bullets, inexpensively bought primers, and the surplus WC844 I recently picked up and the price is about $85/1000 loaded.. best price I can do otherwise with manufactured bullets is about double that..

I've tried both and the Lee foster "key" slug appears to be more accurate in my shotgun.. I was loading it at about 1250 fps to keep recoil down.. I was able to keep shot on the upper a/b zone of a metric target from about 30 yards with my load.. I was actually surprised I even landed the hits...

Old tech still works for a lot of people.. ball powders are newer tech.. different powders for different purposes.. some like to try new things (me), some people stick with what's always worked for them..

Solo 1000 is pretty good stuff.. I use 3.8 with a 185 gr RN in my 610.. I've fired 12 moons in fast succession and not had any overheating or burning myself issues.. trigger finger got sore.. but that's about it.

Sierra, while a tad pricey, makes a nice 170 RN...

cool, putting in for time off now..

After this year's Nationals, I put away my 6 shooter and picked up my Para.. it had been a good long while since I'd picked it up for more than maybe a single magazine of ammo and I'm going to proceed to shoot it when I compete just for something "different to do".. this in addition to my 3.5 month hiatus from competition to do something a bit more practical than practical shooting, use some of these skills to put meat in the freezer... it's Duck season!! This is something I look forward to every fall as a means to stop from being burned out by constant practice.. a change of scenery is nice..

I use a cast 185 Long round nose in 40 cal Revo and a ~193 gr hollow point for my Para P16...

I think this may have happened at the nationals for one particular stage.. it was the only stage that I finished in the top 5.. I think most ppl shot it with the group, it was a 10 round course with three steel on either side of barricades and two swingers in the middle. The center steel in the group of three on the left set off the swinger on the right, and the other was vice versa.. You started gun on table, ammo on table, you were seated in a chair. I think most people shot it steel-steel-steel-activated swinger, reload, then change sides and repeat.. Since I was shooting with friends and not on a revolver squad, I shot it steel-steel-steel-steel-steel-steel-reload-swinger(2 shots)-swinger(2 shots). I had a miss and my time came in as the fastest time (under 11 secs) but that 1 mike cost me the stage win. It's not every day I can beat Jerry on a stage though

Blue Dot can be used, it just isn't the "optimal" powder.. it will tend to be a little dirty and have a bit more snap to it than a more medium burn rate powder. It was one of the older powders that people used to make 9 major with 15-20 years ago before there were better choices available. As long as you load it to what Alliant tells you to, you should have few issues beyond it being dirty..

I am likely one of the few ppl that cringe at watching shooters do the "flip and catch" routine.. sure, chances are that the round won't detonate, but really, why take a chance? I try to stay as far from the ejection port when shooters are unloading.. I figure if it goes off, I'll let them take the brunt of the flying fragmented brass. Every time you do it, you lessen the odds on it happening.. I simply ease the slide back, take the round out, and show clear.. simple, easy, and less of a chance of taking your focus off unloading, safely.

If I had a choice between the 610 and 646, I'd go with the heavier gun.. but I prefer that the gun I fire move as little as possible under recoil for a faster follow up shot. I have the 610 in both lengths and feel that the heavier frame is better for me (I prefer the 6.5" tube over any shorter tube). Longer sight radius being one of the main things I like.. not to mention not having to load the round as hot to make power factor. The 610 cylinder is so long that you could load your 40 S&W or 10 mm to 1.600".. or about what the 44 magnum can be loaded to.. For me, I load to 1.26" for my 610. I load 1.24 for my Limited gun.. so there is no confusion on which loaded round is for which gun.

Check this place out.. the more you buy, the less they cost per magnet.. http://www.magnet4less.com/ I've bought from them and they are pretty good.. I use the magnets for other than shooting applications..

The largest election we've had at our R&G club is something like 450 votes.. out of approx 1800 members... or 25%...

I talked to Ron Joslin a few days ago, he said first weekend in June as "usual".

I've also shot my 8 shot in L10-Minor... a few ppl do that locally when getting ready for the IRC.. they seem to do ok...

Personally, if you want a minor load, you should likely go to a powder more suited for it.. ie lighter charge of faster burning propellant.. for your 5.2 gr of pp, I am throwing 3.6 gr of Solo 1000 with a 185ish gr RN.. and getting about a 145 pf. It is more economical, and likely burning all of it at a slightly higher operating pressure.. but I guess you'll use what you have in stock...

I've had my 002 cup holste for at least 10 years.. and I've tried the CR Speed route only to return back to the simplicity of the 002. If I do my part, I can draw and fire plenty fast with it... It holds my L and N frames just fine and there is no need to adjust between barrel lengths.

I find that it helps to actually shoot the gun for a while before handing it off to a gunsmith.. nothing feels better to me than a nice worn in gun (at least 10,000 rounds) that has had the final work done by a good revolversmith.. I've felt the trigger pulls on guns that were sent for smithing NIB and they just don't feel all that good to me.