CocoBolo

I use the sideways SJC mount on my glock open gun, the only issue is keeping the screw that goes thru the trigger tight. Blue locktite helps. On my STI guns I use red but you can't do that on Tupperware. The glock is a bit more bouncy than the STI's but it swings faster. I got lucky mine runs major or minor and I mean match after match with no hicckups, so it is possible.

Amish - N350 is where you find it, just saw a bunch of N350 at Bexar Community Range in San Antonio. I bought out all their N320 $168 for 4 pounds, then 8#'s of Red Dot for $110. Maybe I switch to Minor! If you see Silouette let me know. You heard wrong there is not end to this shortage in the foreseeable future, too many shooters, the ammo industry can only produce enough ammo and components for 170 rounds per shooter per year, so you get only one match, after that you are an ammo hog! I almost went back to 38SC, when I ran out of 9 mm brass, then I dug around under the bench and found 5,000 I had forgot about. LOL But in the interim I started picking up everything that shined at the matches and wow I have about 10K of 9 mm and another 10k of 40 to trade for 9. Is 9 better than 38SC, nope but it sounds cool. 38SC is so much easier to load, than 9, lots more usable powder. Get a case pro and shoot the brass till it cracks.

You guys had me worried, I got one on the way, All my Cheely mounts on the sti have slots, I was ready to fire up the plasma cutter on the Glock when it shows up in a week or two.

Have you considered sacrificing a Chicken? The only difference from 38SC to 9 is the spacer in the 9. I switched from 38SC to 9 and on the SVI mags did nothing. Over several years of many thousands of rounds I learned only two important things. 1. Replace the springs every year, or as need which ever comes first. 2. Load the mags one round down from maximum, yes, that last round is really hard on the spring and if you don't need it don't put it in there. I have no idea what the dimensions are but if one don't work I make it the same size as the one that does. If it is not broke don't fix it. I throw mine in the tumbler over night a couple of times a year to get the powder residue and funkamongus out of them. They look a little better afterward. Base pads, I save those for big sticks, if you need more rounds, big stick, little sticks are for classifiers, and weak hand shooting.

The minor load I gave you was developed for a gun just like the one you got, not a Glock. I should have Tupperware in a week or so, just something to play with for a while. Congrats on draining your bank account, I mean the nice blaster. If your running 9 major I recommend Silhouette at 7.7gr w/124 and SPP. Reverse temp sensitive drop to 7.4 in winter.

Been there done that with an Sti. I found the best minor load was 5.2gr of AutoComp w/124gr or 5.6gr w/115. The POI changes however, if a guy has a pencil and a piece of paper he can record the amount of "adjustment" on the sight screws and just reverse it when changing back. Sine my C-more is side ways it took 1/2 turn to get the minor load to the same POI. I tried several fast powder loads and they were flippy. However, I don't see the load being much of a factor except for make up shots and if you didn't miss in the first place you don't need them. The Auto comp load comes out to about 135pf and it ran my guns nicely. I just bought a glock open so I'll know more in a few weeks, since I got it for steel.

Those are the non working phone numbers I tried. I'll try the email and see if I get a response.

I've been trying to reach them but the number that was on the now defunct web site was not a working number. Are they gone?

I've done about 50K of 9 major using Silhouette on my Dillon 650, the charge bar has never given any trouble.

I've probably loaded over 200k rounds of 9,40,45, 223 rem on my LNL. The key to seating primers is too simple. If brute force isn't working you are just are not using enough. My up storke is a jab and it knocks the primer all the way in. I do keep a flat washer under the primer punch to make sure I get all the travel possible. Small are easier than large primers, but again "If brute force isn't working you are just are not using enough". CCI, MagTech, Rem, Federal they all work equally well when driven in with adequate force. I had 2 Dillion 650's I got rid of one and kept the LNL, easier to operate, adjust, and is more reliable than the 650, the 650 wins the rounds per hour race by just a few rounds, but at the end of the day the pile by LNL is larger, since the Dillon broke something during the day.

Weaver generally makes good stuff, I've shot several truck loads of deer using a Weaver 4x from the 1960's on a 30-06. One of my 3 gun rifles has their 1x3 and it won a 3-Gun match on Saturday and on Sunday in the first stage the lens came lose, it went back and it has been rock solid for 3 years. Next up on the Akdal is the EO Tech, I just need to take it off my Rifle put the new Burris MTAC on the Rifle. I know you need good stuff, just need to save up some money and do the right thing.

Time to Mount the Burris MTAC I bought a year ago and go shooting. I read last year a couple posts on how to Zero this scope for multi Gun. I have a 20" rifle and will be shooting my 69gr Sierra Match King reloads. I'll probably start out on a combo 25 yard and 100 yard range, so any tips will help. The most common match I shoot has paper out to 25 yards and flagging steel out to 200 yards. I do have the instructions that came with the scope, but I read something about using the top and bottom of the big dot but don't recall what the tip said about that.

I just blew up another Red Dot on my MKA 1919 I think this one is a third generation. We were shooting clays and I took the opportunity to put the MKA thru its paces. First off I have 4 10rd factory mags and the gun performed flawlessly with1255 FPS Shur Shot Rem. I just kept pulling the trigger and it kept going bang. Next up the 5rd factory mags, on ran fine the other one produced failures to feed as well as light hammer strikes. To this I say GO FIGURE. To say it is an odd beast is correct. Now finding a Red Dot that is tough enough to hang on it is another issue. Barska 50 mm tube red dot lasted 5 rounds, the Weaver Mini Red dot well, it lasted about 25 rounds then went to shutting its self off and finally the true death. Life time warranty its going back to them, till they get sick of fixing it and buy it from me.

Dang and I just shot 50,000 rounds to get over it. I'm just tongue tied.

The dot should track up and down, this isn't a function of pf, it is more related to how well you grip the gun, more balanced that brute force, however I have found that side ways motion can also vary from one powder to the next, mine does a little sideways zig zag with AutoComp, but tracks straight up and down with Silhouette or HS6. Your recoil spring has a lot to do with how well you shoot, the most popular is the 9#, I run a 10#, because the timer says I'm faster with a 10#. It takes a good while shooting open to get your eyes fast enough to track the dot and even longer for you brain to comprehend it. Personally I hate the holes, but from shooting the same gun with and without the holes, I'm DTD down to drill, it takes a lot of the flip off at the beginning of recoil, David Rea has a great post here a couple years ago about his Brazos with and without holes. The TrueBore in particular is under comped, so it needs that little bit of help IMHO, and that fat overweight slide need to be whacked down to fighting weight, then it is as good as anything out there..

I loaded a lot of ammo for major matches for my SIL shooting my 226 with Zero JHP 125gr and to be sure it made crono every time 4.3gr of TiteGroup. My suggestion is get off the plated and get jacketed bullets Montana Gold, Zero, Hornady. I've never had trouble metering anything in the LNL, maybe you need to go down to the auto parts start get a can of brake cleaner and remove all lubricant from all parts of the powder measure and drop tube, inside and out. Loaded 100k's with absolutely no lube of any kind on mine, never bridges. Put a washer under the primer seater, and remember rule one, if brute force isn't working you are just not using enough, a good hardy jab seats primers all the way.

Those truebores are hole deffficent, drill a couple #3 holes in it and crank it up to 175 pf and they work pretty good. My 9 major has crooned at 189 pf, hasn't cranked anything yet.. Mostly I run around 175 pf it just shoots better at that level, 7.7gr of Silhouette if I drop the load to 7.4 I make major but it is bouncey, I guess I need to drill it!

If you go to precisions web site on the FAQ it plainly says not to use TiteGroup. There is a reason for this, it melts the assend of the bullet off before it can get out the barrel, leaving a trail like a sea gull flew thru it. What you save on the powder you will use in flitz cleaning the barrel. That said Precision and Bayou bullets take about the same charge, @3.0 for your application. Both Precision and Bayou bullets are excellent. Also look at that FAQ on the precision site, and if you are using the Lee FCD, don't, it undersizes the bullet and causes it to wobble down the barrel leaving a trail of moly and lead, for you to clean up. OAL and charge while related are apples and peaches, you vary the OAL based on how it fits and works in your gun, like the man said find the size that is accurate, well that comes after you get it to fit and feed. Loading Manuels are a good guide, but unless they have the exact same bullet you are loading you have to make intelligent adjustments, which you did by starting low, now you just need to work it up to where you want to be, and in that realm my rule of big toe is to make it as long as will work in the gun, no shorter, as longer is always safer when it comes to pressure. I load 9 major I live dangerous every time I pull the trigger, my loads are way off the charts. WST, N320, W231, will work without the melt down of TiteGroup, and produce better results.

Few years back I got some of those blemished pulled bullets from MidWay USA, and the problem was they kept lighting the targets and range on fire. Yep, a few tracers mixed up in those 9 mm pills. Other than that my results were mediocre due to my less than stellar skill at the time, not sure its that much better now.

I had a shade tree gun smith stieppel my grips, I call it the cactus pattern cause it sticks to you hand no matter what, but if it is either grip tape or bare standard STI I would go for the grip tape. I went to the local sporting goods store and got enough sticky sand paper, aka skate board tape for $3.00 at the local Academy to cover every gun I own 5 times.

I tumble my mags on a regular basis, it gets the inside good and clean, and you can feel the difference when loading them. yes, I use an Arrrendondo brush every time they hit the ground but powder residue I think builds up in them towards the top. My old mags rust don't have any new ones, but the tumbler takes care of that.

If you are using the Lee FCD that could be contributing to your accuracy issue as it under sizes the bullet. However, with the measurements you have I seriously don't see much chance there is any consistency velocity or accuracy and would speculate that gasses escaping around the smaller diameter bullets would cause premature barrel failure, negating any potential savings.

5.6 with AutoComp @115 is a good load use 5.2 with a 124. For self defense buy factory ammo, any Attorney will tell you that. But for me I go 7gr of AutoComp. Homemade Zombie Max. OAL depends on the bullet and the chambering of the gun, my CZ75 Compact will eat 1.145 RN or CMJ, but other bullets may require a shorter OAL, you have to fit it to the gun.

You got a lose nut on the loader! Yeah, seriously, every time you put primers in make sure that the fail safe nut has not backed off, or do like I did double nut it so it don't back off. If you can get one that powder check is a good investment, I quit using it since I load mostly 9 major and it makes a mess, but I had one for a year laying around one day I decided to try it, amazingly I was loading faster, since I did not have to look into the cases, and it caught a variance of +- .3gr. Compared to blowing up a gun the powder check is dirt cheap.

The MTG bullets are about .0005 smaller in diameter than the Zeros. I'm using Dillon dies on one press and Hornady on another one and I have no clue what brass I am using what ever I get, it all works fine. I loath me a U-Die makes my arm hurt and cuts my speed in half, I started off with Lee dies, I got a lot smarter since then, and sold them all off. Hornady or Dillon, and RCBS for rifle. But I seen a few locals have to buy another die when there bullet were falling to the bottom of the case! And they seem to be about every brand sold. Check all 9 mm brass with a magnet if it stick ditch it.