Dawgfish

Recycle it and move on.

I load semi-precision rifle in a "semi progressive" manner. I would highly suggest it. Ask yourself how many .300 WBY mags you'll shoot in a year, or a session. What is your goal, blasting under 100 or accuracy over 300? 1. Process brass on your progressive. Decap, resize, etc. Tumble clean. Trim, prime and you are essentially done with brass prep, unless you want to get overly anal and process primer pockets and turn your case necks. More power to you if you do. Whichever method you use, priming is the last stage on case prep. Inspect for primer seating, and flipped or crushed primers, remove and bad primers and reprime. Store for later reloading with a primer box cover in your bag (gallon ziplock bags work great for volume amounts). Separate these two functions, case prep and reloading. 2. Weigh out your powder charges and trickle charge each one to your goal weight, set cartridges in loading block. This is the slow part. 3. Remove the brass button at the seating stage. Grab a primed case with powder, add a bullet, seat, advance, then grab another, seat (while the first round is being crimped, if you crimp), and now you can really put out a high volume of much higher quality ammunition rather than trusting the 0.2-0.5% error factor on each powder charge, especially if you are using a stick powder. Groups will tighten up compared to going full on progressive, assuming you have your seating and crimping dies calibrated. I have extra tool heads set up just for this operation on a number of calibers. Speed in reloading isn't always the best, especially if you plan on loading for less than 1 minute of accuracy at longer ranges. Using your progressive press to speed up single stage reloading does make sense. If you are shooting blasting ammo, by all means, ignore what I said.

Lots of folks who reload will mark the ogive of the bullet where there is a diameter of 0.25", and mark that with a sharpie. Then they will seat the bullet to the point where it lines up with the forward internal ridge of the magazine. For a .223/5.56 round, this ridge is where the case neck is. This aligns the cartridge/bullet for smooth feeding. Seating the .300 BO bullet out to magazine length will cause issues when loading more than a few rounds, as the internal ridge will cause the cartridges to stack improperly. Give it a test on a 30 round mag. Hope this helps.

231 is essentially a universal pistol powder for autoloaders and light loaded revolver cartridges. Add in Unique and 296(H110), and you pretty much have 95% of all pistol calibers covered from .32ACP to .454 Casull.

Good to go.

Never had an issue with any primers being too soft for an AR, and I have 7. Federal, Win, CCI, Wolf, Tula, Rem all work fine. Wolf SRP were too hard for my 9x23 1911. Switched to Win and all was well.

OKWEBER.com has 220's SMK's. Brunoshooters.com has them as well. I'm assuming you are trying to load a subsonic.

I'll try another powder measure and charge bar the next time I reload for this pistol. The round is very stout to shoot, and fun. I handed the pistol and a mag to a buddy and after firing 19 full tilt rounds, he had the same grin as when I handed him a 10 round mag and my .458 SOCOM. Permagrin. Nice shooting a stout pistol that is entirely controllable. My test for an accurate pistol is a bit redneck. Pop can at 10 yards, and bounce it out as far as I can until the mag runs dry firing about 1 round per second. The can ended up about 35 yards away, and more holes than can. Rounds are accurate as loaded.

I couldn't get Lil' gun to function subsonic in my AR with 200GR SMK's. It will fire, but won't lock the bolt back on an empty mag. It will work all day long in a bolt gun. I have 16lbs of it, so it will get used for supersonic loads from 125 grains and up.

The charge bar is a very old one, from my first 650 and was unused but also 20 years old. Had a yeloow/brasslike anodized finish to it, not the bare aluminum ones like now. I'll try a newer one. Pistol is a Caspian Arms receiver, Scheutzen gun works slide. Not sure of the barrel, but it is plainly marked 9x23 on the chamber section (engraved insided a milled oval), viewable through the ejection port. 5" barrel, with an additional 5/8" extended and ported. The pistol was a gift to my boss a number of years back, and then he gave it to me so I don't know a number of particulars. He doesn't shoot, so it had no utility for him. Factory rounds went through at 1468fps (Win 124gr silvertip), so I attempted to match and achieved that with 8.9 grains using WAP data from Dane Burn's site. Fully supported barrel using the Starline 9x23 supercomp brass. WSR primers looked fine after firing. Cases were similar to the factory brass as far as condition is concerned.

I'm not a novice handloader by any means, having loaded about 4 million rounds on 1050 and 650 machines, but I ran into an issue for the first time ever, powder binding up the charge bar. My current 650XL is about 6 years old, and I had just finished loading 500 rounds of .300 blackout. Switch everything over to 9x23 Winchester, trade out charge bars on the powder measure, get the powder charge correct, 8.9 gr of Silhouette, and have at it. Loaded 10 rounds, fit and functioned well in the pistol, and chronographed at 1465 FPS. Very little difference between the 10 rounds with a high of 1469 and a low of 1462. Very consistent charges. Used the pistol charge bar assembly (two pieces, stationary upper, moving lower). So I start loading 500 rounds. About 300 rounds into the session the charge bar starts binding up. I remove it, tear it down, clean it out and it had a very fine grit, almost as if the powder was being fine ground. Reset, check charge levels, and start again, getting about 150 rounds more into the session, same thing. Cleaned it up, more fine grit, then reassembled and worked through the remaining rounds. Tore it down, cleaned, and then loaded another 500 rounds of .45acp, this time with 231, and I used the same powder measure, different charge bar. Ran like clockwork. Anybody ever run into this before? In 25 years of reloading this is the first issue I've had like this. I have 8 powder measures and this one is new, but it is doing double duty at the moment between .300 blackout and 9x23 Winchester. Changing out charge bars is a lot cheaper than buying a whole new powder measure, and after buying a few powder measure, I have a bunch of spare charge bars. Thanks in advance.

I always pull twice with the swager. No issues.

I just load for accuracy. Speed is what it is. Luckily my three .223/5.56's like the same load. It isn't a screaming fast load, but it gets the job done on paper and coyotes. Is there a particular reason that you need two loads that are largely different? In the case of something like the .300BO, I can see the reason for a super and subsonic round, but for a regular rifle, not sure why.

Looks like you are there.

Been loading for the 6.8 for a while. When in stock, the Remington 115gr FMJ's have worked well for me, with my accuracy in a few carbine classes being up there with the professionals. Too bad they are a seasonal run. Ramshot Xterminator is my primary powder, but most ball .223 powders do work well for it. Lots of good data for at 6.8 forums as others have mentioned. I also got my hands on a few thousand belmished .277 130 grain pointed soft points at Midway a few years back. Turns out they were Hornady interlock softpoints, but they were super cheap, $157/1,000. I use those when I'm out of the 115gr FMJ's, but I have a few thousand of those so I should be good for a bit. Picked up 1,000 once fired from LWRC. Federal brass, crimped primers. A little dirty but it cleaned up well. They still have some from time to time, check their website.