CocoBolo

I've been leaving this monster ShotGun in the Trunk at the hotels because I have not been able to find a reasonably priced Soft Case that will fit my 1100 Rem 27" barrel 13 Round Tube longer than the barrel with a Arrendondo Shute and a EO Tech perched on Top. The gun measues 53", most cases come in at 52", size matters. Even in Texas people would get a little nervious if you rode the elevator with an naked shotgun. I've decided to keep the thing for now, so I'm looking for a soft case. I've borrowed a hard case a few times but Geez getting it in the truck you have to work a good plan out so not thinking hard case. I normally use my Cart so I don't need one to lug around the range. What are you using? The Akdal was easy, Uncle Mikes AR case $24.00, Not sure this one is a keeper yet.

Hold the phone, I pickup and shoot any thing that don't stick to a magnet. It could be the light in the pictures but they just don't look right. (I don't pickup my own), mostly I buy once fired. Trade some of those Win SPM's for some CCI small pistol and see how they work for you. Federal are too soft for 9 major.

Head Space Reamer.

I had one, I guess you can't teach an old dog new tricks, I thought it was more trouble than the wire. I don't use paper clips I have a big spool of Stainless Steel wire for Electric fences, I just cut and make a bunch at a time and stick them in my range bang, reloading bench, etc. Is this what they call a First World Problem.

I trust Benny with my guns.

I've heard horror stories about whomped out chambers and bloated brass. But a little polishing might be the trick. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/hones-files/handgun-polishing-system-prod649.aspx When I hit an obstruction like this I paint it with Dykem and shove it in there and see where the interfearance is by looking for the marks in Dykem.

Buffalo Hunter or Hog Hunter loads are a bit stiff, I'd recommend backing off on that load at least a grain, then get a spread of wolf springs from 15 to 18# and see which one you like best. I'm sure IMSI springs are good but my milage wasn't good with them, seem like about 2 or 3k they went soft, the Wolf go for about 5k. Open guns are hard on springs. Limited guns and single stacks run a bit longer on the same spring, but if you compare the cost of the spring to the cost of the 5,000 bullets well darn bargain.

A paradox I'm going to the light, drug out my Caspian Single Stack, discovering sight focus etc. Dumping the wilson mags for the SS I'm wearing out my vise squeezing the darn things, Tripps on the way. You can shoot production like loads in minor, but as an open major shooter I found the recoil pluse lazy and sleep inducing, the gun had so little movement that I couldn't shoot it fast. So I created the ultimate 9 mm minor load for open shooters, 5.2gr of AutoCom w/124gr MTG JHP 1.45 to 1.165 pick a size, or the 115gr MTG JHP with 5.6gr of AutoComp. Since you already have AutoComp just up the charge to 7.0gr and shoot major. If ur shooting 38S then 5.0gr of WST w/124gr. 2 more tips. The dot disappears when you bend you elbows, break them but not bent, aka Don't short arm the gun! Don't look at the dot look at the target, when the dot blocks your view of the target pull, spank, or slap the trigger, sqeezing is for lemons. Check all 9 mm brass with a magnet, if it stick it is not brass, or carry a long rod and a big hammer.

I showed up to a combat 3-Gun with the Camp 9, CZ Shadow Custom, and my 1100 Open Shotgun, took the dot off, left the speed loaders at home. Now those IDPA guys went nuts, when I won the thing. They kept complaining about the 9 mm, then I'd say seriously 22 cal? The Camp 9 has a horrible trigger, no one wants to try to make it better. Ours runs with the 20rd Mecar mags, but keeping a 30rd mag running is a challenge. Observations: Colt & RR Arms 9 mm AR - Nice. Keltec and Hi-Point - Choking and Puking on every stage. JustRight - No, I'd rather go Camp 9 Local Alex Wakal builds 9 mm uppers. http://www.dreadnaught-industries.com/parts.htm

Just had a couple of pounds laying about and decided what the heck...couldn't figure out any other good use for it... Hey, that's just part of my humorus style, I tried a lot of powders to find out I didn't like a Shorty, gun, and discovering Silhouette was pure accident, at a match a Revolver shooter put me on to it. Loud Shot aka Long Shot works ok in 38S, again not a favorite, AA#7, or N105. You are shooting a Holley Joe, so its already tooth rattling loud, so why not, shoot it up at a local match.

At Nationals, Area Championships, and Major matches, I expect steel to be calibrated and to fall correctly. At local matches the crew makes an effort but the many factors in play sometimes do cause a popper to be too stiff. You know the wind blows, the earth moves etc, it is going to happen. Chances are next time it will be in your favor.

Do a search for breach face errosion here, you will notice that it happens when using Minor Loads with Magnum Primers. Those primer pictures are ugly, Don't increase the charge. If you have one scale and it is electronic, have a friend check it against his scale. I've used Autocomp @ 7gr no issues, HS6 at 8.3gr, AA#7 at 10gr. All with SPP (mostly CCI but some win, and Lots of WSPM). Weigh your bullets as well, if they snuk some 160gr pills in with 124gr yeah that could be an issue. OAL is critical but some tupperware (glock) shooter have run them short and lived.

Benny probably knows more than all the rest of us combined. I used up 20,000 SPM Winchesters last year, behind Silhouette 7.7gr to 8.1gr in 9 Major, no erosion. One thing that no one has fathomed here is the brass, I only shoot once fired brass one time! Yeah, you heard me right, the why is that in 9 major the primer pockets take a lot of abuse! If you are loading 9 major in the same brass a bunch of times, chances are the primer pockets are streched out. My good friend that works for Daswon says you can reload them twice, but my thinking is why take a chance, well shuks I have an extra slide, naw I think I'll build another gun when I win a frame. I did't use a caliper to figure this out, after two or three loadings, I went to empty the tumbler and there were all these primers in the corn, once things were seperated I noticed that there was a lot of brass with no primer. Dang that tumbler got some powder. So I load some up, put them in a bag and shook it, guess what a bunch of primers in the bag and powder. Benny said slower powder, a few choices here, AA#7, yes it works 10gr w/124/5gr bullet 1.180, 3N38, Silhouette, HS6. The federals are flow thru look real bad, and the Win pictures look like maybe you used a reamer or swagger, definately not too much pressure but there is too much space around the outside edge of the primer. Try CCI small pistol or bump you load up to 7.0g of Autocomp. A truebore need an axx ton of gas to flatten out so more might just make it shoot better. One thing missing in your post is the OAL you are using, it should be > 1.145 and normal is 1.165 or longer, shorter well could be a problem.

No I idea why you would be dinking around with Loud shot if you have Silhouette. But yes I have had them slow down when adding powder, followed closely by primer flow. I had an old worn out barrel that I had to keep whicking up the charge to get to pf, one day I just gave up and got a new barrel. I've taken Silhouette to 189pf in 9 major, without any issues, and that is just 8.3gr w/124 on a cool day, don't try this at home kids. My 7.7gr load with a dawson dp2 in a true 5" (cone) makes 172pf on a hot day, another 1/2" and going from Clark to Schueman barrel 5.4 the velocity drops 20 fps, go figure. Try a structured expierement with 3N38, I need a reason to try it. If your looking to take a road not often taken use 10gr of AA#7 with a 124gr, works good, just need an OAL out to 1.180 or so it will pick the OAL for you. AutoComp and HS6 both work almost as good as Silhouette. IMHO. If you have excess crimp you could be losing 60fps, also you will get more velocity out of a Zero bullet than an MTG of he same weight. I test all my loads with WSPP, the rifle primer masks the pressure signs, once proven I do a final crono with the Rifle Primer just to make sure its still in the desired pf range. If I run out of rifle I can use SPP without fear of too much pressure or going minor.

I think my case is the latter, I just took care of the former. Like my post said Benelli what the Big Dawg Daddy's shoot. My last really big 3-gun, I got to see Jesse in action with his Benelli, awesome run. This first myth buster was the barrel length, while you see a lot of short barreled guns in tactical, my guess is his was a 26-27" and had a 12 or 13 round tube. I have had a malfunction, most of them happen between my ears, but I learned a lesson using Wolf Slugs, they put a couple in the case that don't go bang, just to keep you on your toes, and then one or more that the brass splits on and it jams the gun up so that you have to slam it to the ground with atomic force to clear it out. These things will happen regardless of the "model" of gun you run.

I run an A2 on the primary gun, I started with a BushMaster Collapser, but it felt like it was flexing a lot, so I swapped it out for an A2. #2built from Won parts has an off color MagPull and it seems better than the cheaper ones. If the A2 were a couple of inches longer I'd like it more. I stared out with the A2 in the 60's in a we country were not in, at that time we referred to it as the Matel toy gun.

Never had no fuu fuu la due SP2 but shot a lot of AA#7 in 38S and used it in 9 Major. The unburned powder is like small rocks you see in bird cages, but it shoots very nice. Benny Hill use to have a slowmo video on his web site shooting a 115gr bullet out of one of his open guns with 11.2gr of AA#7. For 124gr some whare between 10 and 10.5 gr, I liked the high end for cleaner burning and to flatten the gun out. Lee thanks for the tip on 3N38 being about the same, these days who know what you can wind up shooting.

5.0gr WST matches my 180gr Jacketed Load for 40 at 1.185. 4.7 with a 185gr Moly same OAL.

Well I'm getting a education here. I've never out run my trigger on the shotgun, I can't transition that fast, now I think if I was missing a lot shooting at the same object maybe then. But the only multi shots are normaly slugs on paper at 50 yards and nope no chace there either of overrunning the trigger. Now back to the Question, In non competion I shot a 1100 Rem (hunting Dove in S TX) from 1964 to 2007 with a average of over 1,000 rounds a year and I don't recall any failures. I gave that gun to one of my daughters and she is still shooting it. If you hang a 14 round tube on it, and make a bunch of modifications YMMV. I have an 1100 open shot gun that I only used in two matches, the first one every shot was a malfunction, the second it ran 100%, yeah the first one I put it back together wrong. I've read countless rants about the FN SLP, well mine has shot more than a few 3-G and most of the time it is 2 or even 3 shooters shooting the same gun. The secret, it is stock out of the box. I got mine when they were cheap $642 delivered, bought 3 of them sold the other two for $1100 each, so mine was darn near free. The Benelli is what the big dogs run, so it has "approval", The SLP is my favorite shotgun, if I still hunted I would use it, the 1100 is a great gun. Back in the 1960's in hunting circles we talked about the mossberg as being like shooting a fence post, never have looked at them again. I must be hungry as well.

To get a real answer to any question you need all the details. In this thread the type of bullet would have helped. About WST vs N320. WST works really well with moly bullets in 9, 40, and 45 and in fact like the Magic of Solo 1000, WST has some magic of its own. Set the powder measure at 4.7gr for 45 with 200gr Moly, 40 with 185gr moly, and 9 mm 124/5gr CMJ/RN or JHP. I'm in TX as well and so far no matter the heat 113 for example it makes Power Factor. The 9 mm jacketed isn't as soft shooting as the N320, but acceptable in my opinion. WST is like the pretty twin to 231. As MarkCo says WSF will work with all of them, and it will even do 9 major as well, I have not used it much, personally. In these times thou you have to use what you can get. I have a supply of what I can get, and if the good stuff runs out I will use it but I hope that the frenzie will abate before that.

Its time to smell the coffee, clones of STI are starting to show up! If the clones get their act together and I've heard some good reports, somebody going to be looking for a new occupation. The pricing on the Metro Arms Pantera varies but @ $1600 its a 3rd less.

I'd shoot moly bullets exclusively, If I weren't shooting Open at 1500 fps. I do shoot Moly exclusively in my STI Edge, and Bayou bullets rock.

The biggest factor in accuracy of a semi automatic hand gun is the skill of the smith that fit the barrel, followed by the skill of the operator. That is not to discount that different loads can produce tighter groups. Plated bullets would be my choice for accuracy when they were the only choice. Hornady, Zero, then MTG in my opinion on accuracy. Since it is an STI Barrel, snag some "Precison" moly from Kemp Tx they shoot well, get several weights set up on 50 yards and go with the smallest group (repeatable), then start working different powders, primers, and OAL.

. Your OAL is rather short so you probably need to stick with something a bit slower. When I ran a CZ TS with a 1.140 OAL I blew the top off a few cases and split a few, after moving to STI 2011 with a 1.185 - 1.20 OAL no more case mishaps. N320 is good stuff for Jacketed 180gr Major, with moly or bayou I use WST. Again I don't load the midget rounds. 1.135 is shorter than factory ammo. Are your mags the issue, or do you just need 3 mintues with a head space reamer? I wouldn't try short jacketed with Clays unless you start low work up, but on top of that don't use old tired worn out brass.

Take the C-more off look at the bottom and see if the frame is cracked, if it is nothing will hold it. They crack when you over tighten the lock screw, or so they say. Sounds like it is cheaper to send it to C-more for repair than buy a screw. They have been good to me, I send one in, and get a new one back, for $150. Last one I sent had a bad lens, the reheostat was bad, the diode was bad, and the frame was cracked. What was good, nothing!