CocoBolo

CLP and Rigg. The grease on the parts like the barrel for the bushing to ride on, the bottom of the slide that contacts the plunger, an ultra thin flim of the greas on top edge of the frame. A squirt of CLP at the back of the slide in the rail groves before sliding it on. I tested lots of lubes on my CasePro, grease, oils, etc, the one that hung tough last the longest and did the best job CLP. I used the enos grease, for a while goes on red comes off black but it worked, I just think CLP in the rails is a lot slicker, goes the distance. If it works with open guns it will work with the SS, works on my SS, no if I would just get some Tripp mags I'd be all set.

JFYI http://sashooter.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=749 I had two 650's for a while but the bench was too crowded so got rid of one. Mliebs - Lubricant is the evil on a powder measure, I wash mine down with brake cleaner over 100k rounds still running. Dillon and LNL. The LNL measure has never given any trouble, I can't say that about the Dillon, its had several parts replaced, and don't ask about how many parts I replaced on the 650. It does a good job when tuned correctly kind of like an open gun. The LNL more like a limited gun, get it right it stays right. There are two reasons the Hornady will miss a drop both are operator error, 1. Plunger hitting case feeder post. 2. Bushing not tightened. Dillon 650 - 1. If the fail safe is too tight it will pull the little square block out, 2. The cantilever screw can come out. 3. The fail safe nut backs off. That's 3 and none of them are "operator error". Common operator errors: 1. Short Stroke. 2. Let it run out of powder. there are probably more. I had a bunch of Squibs one time, went to happy hour had 5 margarettas, came home and loaded ammo for a match the next morning. B ottom line don't drink and load!

A good used edge will run about $1700 with two or three mags. If you are a C or D class shooter it won't make any difference, you will have just as much fun as a guy shooting a $5000 custom, more cause you won't be worring about your electricty being cut off. If you are a B trying to Roll to A mabye it might be a bit of a hinderance but after that A, M, GM, its all about what works in your hand.

Lot less than a girl friend or a second wife.

Fate just rang the door bell http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=177089 These lack the affluent affection of the the S_I, but they will get the job done, Todd Jarret one example.

With that bullet your crimp on range brass should be .377-.378, but the brass has to have proper neck tension. I keep seeing all these short rounds, even my CZ SP01 takes 124gr JHP's out to 1.145, and the Wifes CZ 75 eats them up as well. Maybe you need a manson head space reamer, $40 then you can add head space as needed. I did my 9 major guns out to 1.180. I've shot a fair amount of WST w 9mm 124/125gr at 4.7gr, and this will take the edges off of Federal and Win small pistol primer, it does have a fair amount of pressure, but the fps was close to 1100fps. I think that at 1800fps you would have had at least a case split or pop the top off. I've taken 9 major 124gr to 1550 fps, but that is with a slow powder, and CCI primers, and when I say flat I mean flat, not just taking the corners off.

Seriously if you are thinking 2011 get one, don't waste time and money on a SS, if you want to shoot that you got your 9 mm. I can honestly say I haven't lost a dime on buying a gun, it is one of the safest investments around, yes I said investment, not like buying a Dunnie and Burke purse then giving it away at a garage sale after it goes out of style. Pick up a good used Edge with some mags and have a blast!

Hornady 55gr fmjbt w cannalure $13.43 limit 10 pkg, Just Got a 1,000 http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&brand=HO&prodID=HO2267&prodTitle=Hornady Rifle Bullet - .22 cal .224

I use the WFT, worlds finest trimmer, it is fast and easy! I can do over 500 rounds an hour, its chucked up in my very cheap Harbor Freight Drill Press. Check WFT out only about $65 if I remeber correctly. I use to dread trimming more than a trip to the dentist, now it isn't a chore. I use the Dillon Swagger, but the Lee PP reamer works well also in the drill press, but for deburr and chamfer (a necessary process after trimming I use the hand held Lymann double ended tool). If you don't chamfer the inside of the neck it cuts the jacket on the bullets.

Common load is 5.0gr of N320 with a Jacketed bullet but the common OAL is 1.180, so if you are shorter drop it down and work it up.

9 mm 124gr FMJ - 4.6gr WST @ 1.145 180gr CMJ 40 5.0gr of WST @ 1.180 200gr 40 I suggest 4.3gr of titegroup at an oal of 1.200 and in no case shorter than 1.185 an use good brass. (and I don't like titegroup) but it works with 200gr. Any shorter and you run into "split" and "topless" cases. Short is like 1.140 and and you will split some cases. You can probably use Wst but I don't have tried and true tested load for that weight. Start Low and work up.

Red - If I win any more TiteGroup, well, I'll just sell it like I did the last batch. I only found one thing I like it for 200gr Jacketed 40 major, 4.3gr works well for that. But just like you said, dirty, hot, snappy. IMR7625 will make 9 major, but it suks in 9 major, I used it in a Tanfo GoldTeam V8 38S for Major, it worked well in that gun, but not so well in my STI's. Sometimes it just takes a little trial an error to find out what works in your gun. Hey I actually ran into a guy at a local Steel Match that loads 9 major with TiteGroup! No, I was dumbfounded, he got first in open, shooting minor with TiteGroup, and I curiesed in at 1 st loser 2nd, shooting 175pf 9 major with Silhouette, no excuses, just didn't shoot fast enough. For the SteelMaster Guy, let me whisper this load so no one hears it, AutoComp 5.2gr w/125 or 5.6 w/115. The ultimate in soft is Clays, but I couldn't hit anything with it, my gun went from a sub 1" group at 25 to > 4". YAMV or YMMV. (off a rest) Free Style was the same but I cound't wrap my head around it.

Has this gone ghost vs aa? CR Speed was my first mistake, it doesn't draw well and it is common for the gun to get knocked out while taping targets. I have had 3 bought one, but finally rid my self of all. Limcat is a good holster, but when I added a thumb rest it was history. The ghost is an excellent holster, reliable, secure, but lacks the range of adjustment of the Double Alpha, the Double Alpha Unlock lever is easier to hit on the draw and way easier to set on ULSC HD Holster. It isn't totally idiot proof, as I managed to break mine, my daddy always said I could bread a crowbar. I sent an email to Saul and he politely sent me a new slide lock. Not being sure exactly which one I had the one I got needed a little fitting. Like Tim the tool man I grabbed my turbo nitrious drimmel and in two shakes it was just right. The only real issue I have had with the Ghost is blowing sand, well I'm on the line and they said make ready and I couldn't, sand had locked up the ghost, to the safe table I went, after cleaning the ball I was back on the stage. I didn't mention safariland, well I had two, the second a 13 went byby when I got the Quinn mount for the c-more, sure I could have taken super drimmel to it or plasma cutter but just sold it, got the first Ghost, still have two, and use the Double Alpha Racemaster.

I think we have a couple discoveries here, like small rife use Dillon, small pistol Hornady. When I said I use either I was referring to small and large pistol, been thinking about getting a small rifle plate now I think it will be a Dillon for use in the Hornady.

MTAC and mount arrived. I picked it up and looked thru it and as I suspected with my fixed long distance "internal" lens I couldn't see the recticle dots. I started to just put it back in the box and send it back, then I started playing with the focus ring and found turning it counter clock wise I was able to see the recticle clearly without reading glasses. I'm going to try it out on my backup Rifle, a new 20" gun I just built, that currently has an EO Tech, since it shoots the light weight bullets better than my 18" gun. By the time bullets are back in stock and on clearance I'll switch it out. The glass seems to be a bit better than the Weaver, with a little more light in 4x, and when you light it up, it should be good on the short range shots, the recticle jumps out at you, aka in your face.

I get beat all the time by a guy shooting a toob gun, Aim Point, infact my first Open gun $600 had a Tasco pro point. From my obversvations the toob shooters are more accurate and they never complain about not finding the dot, but they don't get thier pictures in Hip Magazine. If your thinking none of the Big Dawg Daddy's run a toob then think again, BJ Norris, runs an Aim Point. So while the Aim Point isn't as popular it may be a + in your case especially being new to open. Slide Racker, useless fashion accessory, except on guns that don't run. Used open guns, I've bought 7 over the past few years (4), the least expensive I still have, $1200, STI Briley updated, the most expensive I also still have $1650 STI Competitior, and I had a new gun built and with Tripp Hard Crome it costs $2500. I left out the $600 toob gun it was a 40 cal Silver Team, I let it go since the big mags and it came with 7 held 15, although to this day it was the best gun on a TX Star, that toob. Of the 7 the last one I bought from a friend was an SVI, with all the bells and whistles, carbon fiber this, slide racker with detent, tooless guide rod, it was a center fold for Hip Magazine. It had one major issue so I picked it up cheap, it didn't run, but then none of his guns run. The slide was lose, I mean shake and rattle lose, so I sent it off to Doug and got it Acc-U-Railed, the C-more was cracked sent that to C-more for a new frame, the comp was cracked, replaced it. Never did shoot it but sold it made a few bucks and got beat by that gun. $1300 in sold for $2000. Caspians ususally sell for a lot less than STI/SVI so I'd say your gun with no mags, and no accessories is no deal unless it is in the $1000 price range. I've missed a couple good deals on Caspians, I want to try one to see if the extra weight in the handle helps, otherwise the guns are essentially the same, with the mags being a bit harder to get and more expensive. Old comps work pretty good with old loads, 175pf, just look for a powder that gets you up to 10gr+ for a load, like N105, AA#7, 4756 etc.

So I hit up the local Sportsmans Warehouse to actually look through both the Tac30 and the MTAC. My vision of what the reticle would be was way off. The whole thing is more or less a red spot on 1x, and on 4x it's still pretty small. Everyone is spot on regarding the illumination switch on the Tac30. I don't know if I could get used to the reticle or not after years of traditional crosshairs. As for a mount, Larue or ADM are nice, but at 2 bills give or take it wouldn't make sense to pair one of them with the budget scopes discussed in this thread. I was thinking more along the lines of the SWFA S.S.A.L.T. 30mm Scope Mount or the Vortex Cantilever 30mm Ring Mount both less than $100. I shoot Tac Ops so the option to mount a red dot isn't important. After reading this thread, I was seriously considering an MTAC. After looking through it at the store, I'm thinking I'll keep saving my lunch money for the Vortex. I've shot cross hairs only for about 50+ years, hit some long important shots, but shooting 2-3gun as I stated it only seems to be effective at the Zero range, I had a 300 yard zero I tore up the 300 yard targets, shooting 200 yards aiming at the dirt infront of the targets took a long time. I got a kick out of the spotter telling me bark was flying off the tree behind the 600 yard targets. Also aiming at the bottom of 100 yard targets takes time, you throw up on the center then think and move down. So I'm giving this gaggel of dots a whirl. 50 yd and under was point and shoot, but running an EO Tech on another rifle double shooting the same match was faster and better out to 200 yards where it was Zeroed. (compared to cross hairs).

Basic cleaning and inspection before every match, extractor (AFTEC) and firing pin monthly, complete tear down (trigger group) once a year. YMMV, depening on climate conditions, powder, selection of cleaning methods, bullet material, lubricant and other factors.

I'd suggest starting a Silhouette load at about 7.4gr then crono and check for pressure signs, my load is 7.7gr w SPP at 1.165 w/ 124gr MTG JHP @ 170pf depending on temprature. I find the SPP shoots a bit softer and flater than the SRP or SPM, but not as clean. I've run 8.1 and it was even flater and softer than 7.7 but the timer don't lie and I was faster with 7.7. The accuracy of this load is exceptional. In order of preference Silhouette, HS6, AutoComp but these days it is what you can get. The 9 mm case is pretty tuff I've been to 189pf without an issue, but I don't recommned it, 9 major is beyond the charts and you need a good reason to go there, not just cycling a messed up gun, try a a sping change.

The 8# Keg is the tie breaker, when you can find one these days. I use either for minor, I discovered it by accident as I was shooting it in a 40 Open gun when the gun was gone I had left over powder and tried it in 9 minor.

For pistol use some pasters on the wall. When I was serious I'd have paster courses set up in a couple rooms and run them with a partime on the timer. The small target makes you aim. I've not tried it with rifle but you could d0 something similar. I use to do two 15 minute sets a day. Phil told me to practice with a revolver, but I've not done it. I made B class in two divisions then got busy with work and life.

Ole Tom's jammatic open gun locked up again, the fashion accessory slide racker was of no use, he tapped it a bit but didn't hit it very hard. I took the gun in left hand and gave it a couple good whacks with the right, it moved some, just a bit more, so I slammed it like hos cartwright stomping on a bed bug, the pain shot to my elbow, look down cant see the hammer, as I pull back the blood is running down my hand, oopsie a mike, and a big hole between index finger and thumb. Off to the med clinic, the nurse that cleaned it said ooh I've never seen that nerve before. Thanks, too much info, now hurry along and fetch the DR cause I might need to go to the restroom, and I can't do it alone. 3 minutes later the lidocaine is flowing danm no pain is wonderful. Dr asks, how did this happen, well Dock I jammed a beaver tail and a hammer thru there. He says wow looks like a Wilson beaver tail. So as he is sewing me up we talk guns and ammo. The moral of the story is after a 100 times of clearing guns this way, I suggest caution. And from now on it it ain't mine I'm not helping. Funny how much education costs, the bill was $235, but since I pay $6500 a year for insurance it was only $25, I fell like I'm already ahead.

THE pricing is when you select the combo, mine was $402.74. I never thought about the mount as a fashion accessory. The PERP 1" I have the weaver on is rock solid, but not QD, and I know you will lose Zero with an on and off. I like the rail on top I mounted the new Weaver Mini red dot on it. Will do the same with the new one. I also use that rail for a flashlight for night matches. Get the Larue mount, it looks a lot better since everyone knows it cost twice as much or American Defense.

I like the Cowboy finally got tired of all the powder that the powder check was pushing out and quit using it on 9 major. There may be a remedy for this, haven't looked back. Properly adjusted the powder check will sound off with +- .3gr in my expierece. The thing that I noticed when I started using the powder check was that I was reloading a lot faster as the time consumed searching the case for powder was eliminated. I still don't look at cases, I changed to watching that the bar is sliding back and forth, seems to be faster and just as reliable.