CocoBolo

Cleaning the Powder Measure. I got along fine till I started loading Accurate 7. This powder drove me a little nuts till I got things figured out. I clean all parts of the powder measure except the plastic with CR Brake cleaner, by the way it works very well on guns as well. I was using the Hornady One shot lube and cleaner but had to cease and dissist with Accurate 7. I also recommend that when you change powders take a 45 cal bore brush and run it thur the inside of the powder drop tubes as some powder will accumulate in there and that will cause inconsistent charges. I clean the plastic tube when need with an Orange Hand Cleaner. This make it clear again after it turns black from powder. Also note that the plastic tube can come lose during loading. There is nothing like that when you are setting there with lap full of powder and a smoke hanging out of your mouth. I used two cures the first was duct tape it never fell while being held in place with duct tape. The second was turning it upside down so that the flat part of the edge is down and the beveled end is up top. Always make sure you lock the powder measure in good, as you are loading along if you have not secured it, it will start going up and down as you crank out one squib after the next.

I have 3 shot thousands of rounds the only time they stove pipe is if I fail to take the extractor out and clean and oil it. I do this about every 5000 rounds in between I spray a little LP10 on it. I clean the mags every time they go to the dirt and spray a little dry lube in for insurance. CZ or MecGar mags work anything else is junk. The CZ's like short rounds, rn in 9 mm and fn in 40. I have shot JHP's in both without an issue, provided I got the OAL right.

I replaced the spring in one of my Ghost Holsters with a spring I got in an assortment at Home Depot. It was slightly larger in diameter than the original so I just drilled the hole out slightly, then cut the length to fit, worked like a champ. I scoured the net and never found any place that had parts for the Ghost.

I started shooting open with a Tanfov Gold Team V8 that had made the rounds. It was a tank, accurate and reliable. My only complaint was the poppel holes when they get a little dirty you start getting crap in your face. The gun for me seemed bunched up too small for me. Shot like a dream with 7.3gr IMR7625 behind a 125 Zero JHP. I switched to STI mainly because my limited gun was sti and my single stack a caspian and I wanted the same feel and trigger on all of them. Another plus is if I need a part or work done its easy to find a smith or a part for an STI. I won't say STI's run out of the box because I have seen a lot of slide racking going on. I bought mine well used and they both run 100% with no issues. I certainly think the Gold Team will cycle faster than most STI open guns as the slide is very lite a standard weight barrel not a bull so you get best of the light weight stuff and a good heavy frame.

Sandman - I use to be pickey about primers but I use what I can get these days. I have used CCI in 38SC, 9 mm, 40, 45, and .223 with no issues. All of my guns have light main springs they have all gone bang and they work better in my Dillon and Hornady Loaders than Federals. Winchester is my favorite but hard to find.

Wow lots of good advice. I have loaded 1000's of 9 mm, with very good results. SAMMI gage is an essential tool if it does not drop in and out freely its a reject. I don't use the Hornady powder thru expander I use their seperate expander much better control of belling and a lot less fiddling around with adjusting the powder measure. That powder thru tends to break my 38SC brass. I use the pistol powder rotor and a seperate powder insert for each caliber I load. Adjust once and that's it. The case feeder is worth the effort but even with expierence after a caliber change it takes a couple hundred rounds of loading to get it perfect. If your not loading 1000+ at a time then it will cost you more time in set up than you save. If you have one make sure you have sorted your brass as a 9 inside of a 40 costs a lot of time as does a 45 in the mix. I don't use any lube and run either the EGW U die or the Hornady sizing die. For Jacketed bullets you can use the Lee Factory Crimp but on lead use a taper die, a the lee will undersize the bullet then it will likley fall out at the wrong time. I struggled with the LNL for a while with the Indexing off, when I finally got brave enough to adjust it I found out how easy it was and how well the loader actually works. I only do 1/8 to 1/4 round adjustment then test, when it is on it really makes a difference setting primers and sizing cases. The final straw was when the powder was on the shell plate and not in the case that was caused by indexing being off. Keep a small parts brush handy, when powder gets on the shell plate clean it off, or it will get into the primer punch a gum things up. Learn the feel of the press when you start the down stroke and it does not feel right, you are about to break something, stop and figure it out. Now look at everything and make sure you got powder where it belongs etc. If you have any doubts put everything in the mistake bucket and then start over again. Most major fowl ups like double charge and squib come from these kinds of interruptions. 9 MM takes a good crimp. Getting the right length is a matter of loading a few and checking them in your mags and the gun, my Sig eats anything the wife's CZ well size matters and its smaller this time. I have both Dillon and Hornady they are both top of the line machines. My production load is 4.2gr TiteGroup with a 124gr MTG CMF chrono at 131pf out of a Beretta 92 at Area 8, same length as Winchester White Box.

Quinn and C-More.

Since you are new to reloading let me clarify some points. You should have a SAMMI gage for each caliber you are reloading. Common name drop check. Drop check every round if it does not fall in and out its a reject. Most brass you pick up at the range will work, you will find the ones that don't in the drop check, this is where I find my split 38SC cases. If you are loading Major loads then you need to be more selective. 40 S&W can be a problem when loaded short with jacketed bullets. Start the load out with less powder then work it up watching for flat primer aka pressure signs. I blew the tops off a few cases when I was loading short for a CZ but now I have an STI and load them longer no issues. If you are loading 40 then I highly recommend the Redding GRX much better than a U-die. Takes more time but the results are 100%.

I thought about a Para, then I pulled the trigger on one, that was the end of the love affair. My smith says Para's are OK just bring it to him get all the internals replaced and put a new barrel in it. Tarus is very similar. Springfield makes a good gun, Kimber, makes a good gun, STI makes good guns. If you can afford it in an STI I like the Trojan its a litle more money but a lot more gun. If all it will do is sit in safe then it just doesn't matter anything will do.

I bought the 22" SLP MK II last year for 3-Gun. I have shot 4 or 5 three guns with it, won one, 2nd in another and so on. The Fiber Optic with flip up sights gets you on target fast, mine was dead on out of the box shooting slugs at 50 yards. Fold the site down when not shooting slugs. These guns run and even have less recoil than a Rem 1100. One of the main reasons for choosing the gun was I shoot tactical and the 22" holds 8+1. I have seen too many shooter have issues with extension tubes, the FN is factory and it works. I was running an 18" pump, they are easier to drive but they tend to beat you up more. I don't find that the extra length takes away anthing in HD, if anything I feel better having 9 rounds of fire power, and knowing its reliable. The wife wouldn't shoot the pump but she got a rattle snake and a Copper head the other day when she lit the brush pile and they came out at her, she likes that FN. She also got a coral snake with a shovel.

Ok, lets hope that you are not using 5.0gr N320 with a 180gr bullet in a 38 Super going by the picture.. If you are you need a much slower powder and accidental life insurance. N320 plays out at 130gr bullets. My guess is that you are loading 40 S&W and that said 4.8- 5.0gr with 180gr jacketed bullet is about right for a 168-170pf. The OAL could be out to 1.20 with an SVI. With a moly coated 185gr bullet you can get there with only 4.4gr N320. I use federal small pistol with these loads and they are the softest primers you can find. The offset punch is common and the police can match it to the gun that shot it becuase they all vary slightly. The main thing is it goes bang and does not poke a hole in the primer, that pic is a shallow dent.

I don't reload for may carry gun, but I do use reloads for practice, and cardboard for bad guys. 38SC, if you are not loading your own you don't know that what you are shooting is the best load for you and your gun. I have tried 6 different powders for my 38SC. It shoots flat soft and loud.

I run a ghost in Limited and Open. The holster is locked at all times except at make read. If I need to make a run before I draw then I will lock it after make read. The Ghost lock unlock lever can be positioned so that when locked it is horizontal and protruding just beyond the trigger guard. To unlock as you establish your full in the holster grip I use the second and longest finger to hit the unlock. When unlocked the gun is easily dislodged from the holster, and the best thing about a ghost is you can draw it imperfectly not straight up and it comes right out. Some time spent dry firing and practicing the draw and taking the safety off as you push the gun out, after establishing both weak and strong hand grip, will probably take care of most of the issues. If you have to look at the holster to put the gun back in then you need a lot more practice.

It took me a while to get them right but the Precision 200gr OAL in my KartMatch barrel 45 had to size them with an oal of 1.220. If they are longer then the gun would on occasion not go into battery. If you look at the moly coat you can see where it was contacted. I am using 4.2 gr of Clays and this produces a 168pf. I don't have my load book in front of me nor the chrono results but after trying several different powders over the chrono it became my load. With WST you will need 4.7-4.8 gr with this 200gr bullet with a 5" gun. I tried N320 but by the time I got to major I felt like it had more recoil than the WST and the Clays seemed to shoot the softest of the 3. I dropped the recoil spring down to 12# and the gun cycles like my limited 40. With the Precision moly you need to bell the case well so you don't cut the moly and it needs a good crimp .002. Clays seems to leave less fowling than WST but a chore boy and a little JB bore paste and your barrel is back to a mirror. I have not found any chemical that gets it out and ruined one barrel trying so I'm on the chore boy side of the fence now.

I load on both a LNL and Dillon 650 both with case feeders. I have loaded on a 550. The LNL is much easier to set up and change calibers than the Dillon. Your lee dies will work with the LNL and the Dillon. Get the pistol rotor for the powder measure then get a regular insert for each caliber you load. Once you have them set just snap in the right insert instead of adjusting the powder every time. That you can't do on the Dillon you have to get an entire pwdr measure. $27 per caliber (shell plate) versus $83 for a conversion kit. I take my time loading and run 200-300 rds an hour on my LNL. The 550 is an aggie loader you have to use both hands one for bullet and one for brass, the lnl is faster as you leave one hand on the ram. Happy loading.

I have won a couple of those style matches running a Marlin Camp 9 Carbine. Short, lite, and the sights sit just over the bore line so no need for hold over. Ammo is much easier to load. The trigger in these rifles is horrible but a good smith can tune it up. 30rd mags need some tuning to be reliable but the MecGar 20 rd mags run flawless. I paid $300 for the gun for the wife but she lets me borrow it and her CZ75 for Carbine matches. Of course the other shooters bemoaned that it was a 9 but heck they were shooting 22s.

Keep those 10 round mags they are what you need for that other game USPSA. The most important thing in your first match is safety so make sure you understand all the safety stuff. Next when you get to that first stage and a guy charges thru there and shoots so fast it sounds like his running on full auto, remember this isn't his first rodeo. IDPA punishes you a lot for bad hits and more for a miss so just concentrate on making your hits and time will take care of its self. Most local clubs will let you shoot what ever you brung the first couple of matches, as long as it fits the practicle ideology.

10.2 gr Accurate 7 behind a 125gr JHP any small pistol primer I can get, using 38 SuperComp anything I can find on the ground. A case pro makes sure it feeds well. I have shot some N105 but got turned off when a friends bullets started growing on a hot day, its a compressed load. Powder choice has a lot to do with the Comp that you are using. I went to accurate because I bought an old Competitor with a BIG Dawson comp that was desingned for 175pf. I prefer powders that can be bought in 8 lb jugs, shooting 10.2gr or 11.2 with 115's is like driving a gas guzzler, the powder measure goes down fast. Smaller comps like the modern TruBor seem to run rather well on N350 @7.8gr and 124-5gr bullet. Same thing goes for IMR7625 at 7.3gr for 174pf.

CocoBolo, can you elaborate a little more on using the LNL powder measure with a Dillon press? I don't quite understand the part about needing an expander die. Doesn't the LNL powdermeasure expand the case as it charges it? Also, how hard is it to change powders in the LNL measure? With my Dillon, I just remove the two screws holding it to the powder die to pull the measure and dump it's contents. Is it similar on the Hornady system? Sorry been off line with a DSL Issue. You can use a seperate expander die or Hornady has a powder thru die. How easy is it to change powders. Well since the powder measure snaps in with the bushing adapter I just snap it out and turn it upside down and try to pour the powder back into the correct jug. When using on the 650 I have a powder drain that takes the place of the metering insert and just hold the jug under the measure turn the drain down and it is empty either way requires no tools. And you forgot about removing the failsafe rod on the Dillon and then adjusting it when you put it back on.. The Hornady is case activated and gravity plus the spring make it like the failsafe on the dillon. You can't use the bushing on the Dillon you just screw it in like a die. No need to find you allen wrenches. I did learn this weekend that I can buy an aluminum insert for the dillon measure so the powder does not eat up the plastic insert. Ok so changing powder charge when changing loads. Since I have the pistol rotor and I bought 6 inserts I just snap out the insert and pick up the appropriate insert which I already adjusted when I invented the load and pop it in. Cycle a couple cases weigh to make sure I have it right and go about loading. This makes caliber/load changes quick and easy. Cycling the LNL to do powder adjustments (test loads) does not cause primers to be fed, in the dillion it just loads the primer discard tray. Hope that clears it up.

I load in an unheated metal building. Will either scale work properly at 40 degrees? My current electronic goes nuts at low tempratures. I have a cheap beam scale for those occasions.

I just went thru that whole trigger thing with my smith and a few other shooters and they all were gaga about the Rock River Two stage. In the end I decided I had a one stage brain and finger and just put the JP 3.5# spring kit in and the trigger breaks at about 4-5 lbs Best $10.00 I have spent in a long time. Its not perfect, just a tad of creep, but it sure is a lot better than the stock Bushmaster Trigger. Then agian its the Indian and not the bow.

I would decide on a gun builder and discuss the options with the builder. Once you know exactly what parts to get it will work out better. If you are fairly new to the sport let the builder make the big decisions. On the other hand if your a A or higher you should have a good idea of what works for you. I have bought 3 used limited guns all are awesome running and shooting guns. 2 STI Edge and an Infinity. Highest price was "NIB" HPF Dawson Edge with 4 mags $1650, so it is a good option to get started till you know what works for you. Its a good time of year to watch the Classifieds here and on USPSA as well as gun broker for Brazos, Bedell, and Melllinum custom guns. You can pick one up for about 2k with mags etc.

Interesting question. I woud have to say the most important thing is how well it shoots a group. This of course depends on many factors like ammo etc. If you can shoot a one inch group at 100 yards it should be good to go. Have you looked at the STI Competiton rifles, Dawson has them on sale for $1199.

I have been reloading for two years about 35,000 rounds, I have both a Hornady LNL & Dillon 650 both with case feeders. 9, 38 SC, 40, 45, 38 SPL, 30 Carbine, and .223 Rem. I highly recommend a fully progressive press it is cheaper than blowing up your gun. Lots of folks use the 550, it has a lot more exposure for human error, and I have seen a few of those. My friend has the as it should be and I have the the ball and bolted the 650 directly to the bench. I like my set up better so save the $141. Everyone I know that reloads has tried electronic scales and they also have a beam scale. I use the Frankford Aresnal $29.00 and their Dial Caliper. In the winter when it is cold I use a Lee Safety Scale as the Electronic gets squirrely. So just the Lee Safety Scale ($21.00). If you are not going to load Rifle get the SDB it is a little jewel. If you are not going to get the case feeder don't get the 650 get the SDB. With the 650 and Case Feeder and one primer tube it takes me about 3 hours to load 1,000 rounds of 40. Only because I take my time. The Dillon is a little harder to get right but when it is right it is awesome. Get a tool head for each caliber and a powder measure it makes it so much faster and easier. The Hornady LNL is a very good loader and it only needs a $27.00 shell plate and no conversion kit. So if you plan lots of calibers put it on your list. Buy a $10 powder insert for each caliber and use the same powder measure adjust it once. It works great with or without the case feeder. With case feeder costs same as a 650, the 650 with case feeder will out perform the Hornady. If you get the Dillon get the spare parts kit, it keeps your loader up and running till replacement parts arrive. I spent 3 hours crawling around my shop floor looking for the detent ball.

XRE & Benny are two experts in their own right, so what they say is like gospel. I will stay that I along with every other Open Gun shooter I know have tried a number of different powders and loads to come up with the one that feels the best in our gun and each may have come up with a different one that is ideal for his or her combination of shooter and gun. I tried some powders that made the dot jump over the moon then found one where the dot hardly moves at all. Each gun is different based upon factors like comp weigth etc. So when all else fails you may want to start loading your own ammo to get just the right feel for you.