CocoBolo

I had some similar results back when. What it amounted to is that the draw is a little slower however the big time loss was once the dot was on the target the time to break the shot. Dot on pause break shot. In close range dry fire like your plate I take a marker and put a cross in the middle, in practice the dot must be centered on the cross. If your just getting on the plate you won't take that shot in the real world you will waste time repositioning to where you want to hit. A quick first shot depends on many factors. Are your eyes drilling a hole in the target where you want that first shot, is your body in postion, is your stance perfect, are you moving only your arms. Matt Burkett does a good job of explaning the fine points of the draw in his training video lots of little factors. My real fire first shot is about .25 second slower than the dry fire first shot. In practice you must do everything the same as you would in real fire, safety on click it off in the right spot, hit your mark and break the shot without hesitation, you must trust your eyes. Then follow thru so it actually hits that spot. Reminds me I need to dry fire with my open gun switching back from limited.

I load 9's and 38 Super Comps by the 1,000. I use the same crip die, expander die, bullet seating die on both, I did get a 38 Super Sizing Die but I did load a bunch of 38 super with a 9 mm die, I don't recommend it. Be sure to drop check everything used super cases can be way fat. The slower powders are for major power factor. If the gun is new and tight and the spring is heavy throw about 5.gr of N320 behind a 124gr and it should run the gun good a strong for break in then drop it down to 4.6 to 4.8gr to get to a pf of abround 130. Use the chrono for this. I use both N350 and Accurate 7 in my open guns but thats not going to make a good load in a non compensated gun. A good powder that sits on the border line is IMR7625 I have shot it both compensated and non compled and it makes a decent powder for both. As always check for pressure sings, you know flat primers and blow thru, then back off if you need to.

G-Mann - If you want a great deal on a tracotr - M&M Tractor in MO. I think it is http://www.mandmtractor.com. Good guys good deals. I have almost a mile of driveway, keep it smooth and in good shape with my 24hp 4 Wheel Drive Diesel tractor. Paid 2900 for it at m&m then put a Koyker Loader on it. With 30 forward gears its a beast. I also have two Kubota's, they are the best tractors made.

I use my Hornady LNL Powder measure on the 650 with the case drop feature, but you will need either to use a seperate expander die or get the powder thru expander die from Hornady. Works good no issues. Most of the time I just use the dillon powder measure on the dillon press as the hornady is in use on the other press. I don't use the powder thru expander die with 38 Super becuase you mess up a few cases with that die.

Frankford Aresnal I over load let it run for days and it just keeps going. 2 years of abuse and it just keeps going. I run about 20,000 cases a year. Two more bargains are the Frankford Aresnal electronic scale Midway on sale for $25, it works great but when it gets below 40 degrees it gets squirrely so I have the $21 lee safety scale as a backup it works well. The RCBS media seperator the best reloading money I ever spent! Try it out on .223s it really shines.

Most of the 9 mm Major guys in these parts are loading TruBlue or Silhouette. Here is a link to a post on my website with 9 mm major load data based on 5.5" Trubor: http://sashooter.com/forum/index.php?topic=6.0 By the way you picked a good gun to start it is a middle weight, there are heavier guns and lighter guns but yours is in the middle. I run Quinn's on both my 38 Supers, it makes life better, but with years of practice you can overcome the problems with the standard C-More mount, and hunting for the dot. Keep an eye on the C-More mount screws and the grip screws they get loose fast in open. Welcome to the darkside.

Grafs has Wolf SPP in stock here is the link http://www.grafs.com/product/274420 Keep checking them and Natchez that is the place I have been finding them for the last few months. I'm under 20K.

1950 Desoto, paid top buck for it $25.00. If there was going to be a fog or rain at night I had to put newspaper over the engine to absorb the moisture or it wouldn't start in the morning. The first time I got it up to 70 mph, it spun a main bearing so I pulled the pan off and used emory cloth to clean up the crank shaft, put in a new main. It ran fine then dummie me I did it again went 70 spun another. I didn't have the money for another bearing so I put in a piece of an old leather belt. I hung a for sale sign on her and a couple guys from mexico came by and bought it for $75.00. A few weeks later I was in Reynosa MX on a Saturday night having a few Tequila and the car pulled up to me they had painted it brown and white and were using it as a Taxi, go figure. Bought a 55 Caddilac with the $75, it had Air Conditioning what a treat, didn't have that a home!

I have shot the Tanfo GoldTeam V8 in open and the CZ75 TS in Limited. I will describe the GoldTeam as a Tank, it was 100% reliable and as accurate as anthing I have shot. The gun is heavy but the slide is light it cycles faster than your brain and the heft keeps it flat. The CZ75 TS is also 100% reliable mags hold 20. Again this gun will out cycle an Edge unless the slide has been lightened considerably. The TS will not take extended length OAL other than that I think its a great machine, very accurate and a great trigger right out of the box. I currently shoot STI/SVI in both limited and Open. This choice was made to keep all my guns for competition in the same platform. One ghost holster fits them all. The only real advantage in the STI/SVI is that you can get parts everywhere and lots of good smiths can work on them. If you are accustomed to the hindged trigger (Tanfo, CZ, Glock etc) then go CZ/Tanfo, if you are good on a sliding trigger then go 1911/2011. Since I went STI/SVI I have a smith, when I was shooting Tanfo/CZ I did not know a smith. He is a nice guy and loves taking my money.

I shot 1100 Remingtons since 1964, I love them guns. They kick less than a Benelli and they weigh less than the FN, which I consider superior to the Benelli, and it will cost less. So what's the real question. I don't think the 11-87 is as good as the 1100. I'm shooting an FN SLP MKII love that gun, got it for $629 new last year. When and if I move to open it will be a 1100 or a Saiga. Good Luck

Did you mean? Rather than shooting proactively through your subconscious, you become tentative, conscious and reactive. Your fear of missing drives your performance and your results are marred by procedural errors, poor trigger control and a sense of being rushed. AKA Performance Anxiety. Ok wish I was that brilliant, this is an exerpt from an Article on Gray guns. http://grayguns.com/competitive-mindset-an...tive-decisions/ I'm working on my PA (performace anxiety) problem just like a thousand other shooters.

Well your not alone that's for sure. I'm going to say as long as your equipment functions aka runs and your not putting your mags in your socks, Its the Indian and not the bow, that makes the arrow hit the target. I read a couple of articles I think are spot on and worth a read just for the humor if nothing else. http://grayguns.com/zen-and-the-art-of-hitting-stuff/ http://grayguns.com/competitive-mindset-an...tive-decisions/ I can say these words are exactly what happened to me recently at the Nationals: Rather than shooting proactively through your subconscious, you become tentative, conscious and reactive. Your fear of missing drives your performance and your results are marred by procedural errors, poor trigger control and a sense of being rushed.

No powder puffs but 169pf with 200gr and 4.7gr of WST with Precision Moly coated so it will take +.2 with the Rainer.

The best thing about the 9 mm open gun is how cheap it has made good old reliable 38 Super open guns. There are few builders that can make a 9 mm run, Bedell is one. 3 Local shooters purchased Steel Masters, these guys are doing extremely well shooting Winchester White box, they run and these guys have moved up two classes in a short period of time. Its the next best thing to a 22 lr conversion, almost no recoil or flip and Walmarts doing the loading.

This is a volunteer sport maybe you should volunteer to do scores, then they can be posted a couple hours after the match is over. You will make a lot of friends and get your scores quick. I do feel your pain, here in San Antonio, with 7 clubs 4 clubs have a same day results rule, those matches have 40 to 75 shooters, the ones with we will get to it when its time comes have maybe 20 on a good day. The club is hurting itself but then maybe there's not another match for 100 miles. Here we must decide each Saturday and Sunday which match we will go to. So many choices USPSA, IDPA, Steel, Carbine, 3-Gun. I start doing scores this month for one of the clubs, I help setup, and get to be Match Director once a year, did I say I RO.

I recommend dry fire. In IDPA the most important thing is accuracy as each hit outside the 0 area puts a time penalty on you. Since you are using a 1911 please take time to perfect the technique of your draw to first shot. By this I mean making sure that you draw the gun and do not touch the trigger or safety until you have it pointed towards the target, this can be once both hands have met and you are pushing the gun out. We have had 3 local self shootings at matches this year and all 3 were due to imporper draw technique (which also implies putting the gun into the holster), don't shove it down into the holster with the safety off and your finger on the trigger. Practice Reloads, being sure that during the entire reload process the trigger finger is extended forward and out of the trigger guard. Practice this till it becomes natural. Do regular reloads which implies you went to slide lock and do reload with retention (putting the out going mag in pocket etc). Practice moving with the gun, this mean ingraining that the trigger finger will be extened along the slide of the gun and not in the trigger guard while moving, except for engaging targets on the move. Dry fire can be as simple as hanging a few targets around the living room and pointing at each or get to way complicated. Do 10-15 minutes two or three times a day and it will improve your shooting. Search for Dry Fire on this forum and you will find 100s' of Ideas. Make sure that you lean around walls and furniture etc to get in to "covered" positions. You will always be welcome at matches if you are a safe shooter. Good luck and enjoy the match.

It is an obvious case of hungchow. Feeding your router apples gets it all plugged up. Now it could have been a DirtKnap but the reboot should have woke it up.

200gr RN Precision with 4.2gr Clays 1.225 OAL @170pf. 12lb Wolf Variable Power Recoil Spring. 17lb main spring with 2 coils cut off. Sets off all primers CCI, WLP, Fed, etc. I do not use Wolf so can't comment. Shoots softer than my limited gun and has less flip.

Before you take the 7" grinder to the mags, check to make sure the mag release is going all the way into the recess in the frame. I had that issue with mags not dropping. Took the mag release out cleaned it, sprayed some CLP on it and no more problems. Your gun may also have a metal mag brake, when its flat the mags drop out, it is curved to keep it from dropping. All military pistols have it so the worriors won't lose their mags so they don't drop. Drop Henning a note about the trigger, he is an expert and some work is bettter done by an expert. You can reduce the trigger pull just by putting a 15lb main spring in the gun. Making it crisp and short reset may take the competion hammer and a few other mods. An extended firing pin from Henning and you can drop a 13lb main spring in and still set off most ammo.

[As an aside... And the sound of ricochet's zinging overhead was eyebrow raising at first. I got used to it after awhile On Stage 15 after I put my gun on the table and was crouching down, I thought that the RO slapped my rear end I turned around and looked at him and he smiled and said welcome to the nationals. After I shot the stage I found out it was one of those ricochet's zinging but not overhead in this case. Back on track. First Nationals, and some what of a newbe to the sport. It was not the event I had expected. I think the stages were plenty challenging. There were not a lot of long shots but there were a lot of tight shots to make up for that. There was no weak hand strong hand. I got lucky I ended the match on stage 3 it had 6 open targets on it in a row so it was a shoot on the move stage. Of the 8 major matches I have done it fits in 5th place behind (1) Gator (2) TxState Limited (3) DoubleTap (4) Area 8 Championship.

Squad 4 the Video's I shot on Saturday am are posted at http://www.sashooter.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=343 Enjoyed shooting with you guys and gal.

First Nationals "C" and a new one at that. Lots of props I had never seen before. The most important thing I learned it to keep your "Mental State" in good order. I shot pretty well the first day until the last stage of the day "9" with the bouncey targets with the no shoots in the middle, on that one item 3 very tight grouped noshoots on the right and probably two tight air hits on the left 50 points. Ending the first day poorly brought the fear of hitting a no shoot to the top of the mental list along with mikes, day two was a complete disaster, and ended the day with another 50 point blunder. In short you got to keep your confidence going and not be afraid to fail. Day Three there is nothing to lose and nothing to gain, aka Brian Enos shoot when you see what you need to see and don't think, best day of the match. Only one no shoot on the long shot ameba and by some miricale I saw it and made it up. Best stage of the match was rated as hardest stage of the match and it was the hits that did it, so +1 on make every A you can. (Stage 2). One more thing, any Mental Error will cost you more points than any single shot of the match. Aka forgetting a target. So getting and keeping your head together is no 1.

Your load looks lite to me, but the OAL is short, I load mine at 1.150-1.160. With 4.3gr TG 124gr Montana Gold. Chrono at Area 8 was 131. It does have some crimp on it, I use the SAMMI Guage when it drops in nice its enough crimp. Your 9's are shorter than factory ammo and this adds pressue. You can tell when you have major 9 brass in the tumbler you will see a bunch of primers in the corn, that is normally the first thing that loading 9 mm brass to major does. I have had some tops blow off on 40, the reason is I pickup brass during the local matches, I probably picked my own up that has been load who knows how many times. If the brass had a serial number on it I could track it, just kidding. However, I switched to Precision Moly bullets and I was able to drop my load .4 gr and have not blown any more tops off. With your Wolf barrel you should give them a try, they will shoot softer with less powder behind them.

Hey I just flew US Air from San Antonio to Regan (Washington DC) for Area 8 Championship. I checked in on line, paid for my bags on line saving $5 a bag then did the same coming back. I went to the Check In counter and said "I would like to declare an uloaded fire arm", the guy just filled out the flaming orage card asked me to open the bag put it in there and I locked it up. He said that looks very professional, yep its a pretty one isn't it. Ok next to the TSA bag guy, "My bag has a fire arm in it". I wait until its gone. On the way back they got a little fussy at TSA because I had a bunch of 223 in stripper clips in bandolier's way over 11 lbs if you follow, plus my other bag had a bunch of 40 CQB in it. But after the opened it and saw it was incased in foam they said ok. So you can check in on line but you still must go to the counter and declare the fire arm and fill out the Unloaded form.

JT - The fat lady sings tomorrow, Max is down but he may not be out yet. He has 5 stage wins if they hold that is a bunch of free points. I have not been to the nationals but I can tell you on Sunday's at a big match these Super Squarders are wound pretty tight and about anything can and will happen. 2M and 3NS looks a lot worse when they are all on one stage, he should have spread them out a bit. Some of the top 10 have 70+ negative points. Right now he is a underdog so you go Max its great when you can over come adversity to win.