muncie21

Kudos (once again) to the Dillon team!! Not many current manufactures/distributors (not just gun related) toffer this type of support to consumers. Well Costco comes to mind, but not much else. Everyone else is looking for an excuse to demonstrate the 'issue' was/is not their problem and move on.

Perhaps there are different dynamics in play between a limited and open gun. I have 2 CZ TSO's in .40 that have more than 10K rounds through each them and haven't experienced any issues with either the barrel or frames cracking. Slide stop yes, each has broken 1-2 during this time. It could be that FTP is referring to the early barrel design of the CM, TS and perhaps TSO, where the 'peanunt' portion of the barrel was less robust. These barrels were known to break at this spot. I have not heard mention after the barrel redesign of barrels breaking on this pistols.

Congrats on the RIA. Let us know what you think after trial by firing. I have a couple of RIAs and found them to be very decent entry level guns.

I clean my primer tube and feeder tube every 5-10K rounds. From the 'yellow' on the swabs I push through, there must be a decent amount of residue in these tubes.

@Francescothanks for taking the time to write a well written post, sharing your thoughts and experiences. It's very nice to hear that a gun manufactured in Texas is liked and appreciated in Italy, which I'm told has an area called the valley of guns (or gun valley) where craftsmen have built guns for decades.

Suggest you check the bullets that failed the hundo to see if they plunk/spin in your barrel. The hundo I have is tighter than my barrels.

I run my .40 without the rubber buffer, no issues here.

The bushing has a lip. You cannot (without extreme effort) over-insert it.

Tap it out with a socket. It is not very difficult.

I feel your pain, I've changed divisions (Production, Open, limited) multiple times. I'm no GM, but here's my current thinking- Shoot the same division & pistol for at least a season.

The max OAL depends a lot on bullet profile and the particular barrel in your CZ. The most common denominator for my 9mm CZs is 1.08-1.09. Some bullets/pistols can run longer, but this OAL (at least for the several bullet profiles/manf's I use) will run in all of my CZs.

I have not heard of this before, can I ask why you are doing this?

What division is the next adventure for you Jason? Please don't tell us you're quitting USPSA to try IDPA

Put me in the 'sounds promising and looking forward to trying this out' list.

I find that using good quality grip tape will negate the need to do a full SC glue job on your grip. I use Lowes/HD silicone carbide stair tape for some years and found the adhesive was weak, but worse than that was the majority of the SC came off after a match or two. Switched to a better quality product sold as skate tape on Amazon and am quite pleased with durability of the SC and grip of the adhesive. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NBCF4B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wait until BBI and Blue Bullets merge their companies...Could also be that you'll just get 'beat up' bullets Good luck with the purple quest

In addition to the texture the DVC grips are a bit smaller than the standard STI Edge ones.

Red Hill Tactical would be my choice for Kydex. DAA race master or Alpha x for race gun holster.

I agree that bullets that are too short for a particular gun are just as problematic as those that are too long. When I tested my CZ .40 loads in my STI, 1-2 bullets per mag would get hung up on the feed ramp. The CZ will eat 1.13 OAL all day long, the STI not so much, that gun likes 1.16 or so.

I load for several CZs (9mm, .40 & 9major) any bullet profile can be made to work. It's all about figuring out the optimal OAL for a particular bullet profile. FYI not all HP profiles are the same. While working up a 9major load, I found that RMR and Precision Delta HPs required a different OAL to work in my pistol.

FCD for semi-auto pistol rounds, doesn't matter if they are coated, jacketed or plated. You don't want to swage the bullet, just remove the bell

If removing the second spring doesn't make a difference you can always put it back in. Polishing the extractor....no undoing that

I was just funning with you. I only change my springs each season (if that) so don't go through a lot of springs. Thanks for the offer though and for being a good sport! You're still welcome to send me your extra springs, but only if you have kept them neatly labeled so I can tell which is which

Dammit

dude, can you save those useless springs and mail them to me at the end of the season? I'll pay for shipping