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kevinj308

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Everything posted by kevinj308

  1. You're not the only Californian here, welcome Ernie. Kevin
  2. http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7829073/ http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/7843197/
  3. The pdf is too big to upload,if you'll pm me an email address I'll send it to you. Kevin
  4. Just a FWIW I've been using One Shot in the pump bottle, not aerosol. It has water in the mix and I've had some unexplained squibs. I've since been more careful about letting any get into the case and using it very sparingly. Still works great as lube, just be aware of what you're spraying on your case, I wasn't. Kevin
  5. Go here http://www.brianenos.com/pages/words.html, particularly the fundamentals at the bottom of the page. Kevin
  6. Fwiw I went with the Wilson ETM's for just this issue. I also put the DE base pad on them, and then had to sand them to fit in the box. You still gotta be assertive with them, but it's the best combo I've found. They really do help. Any chance you could borrow some different kind of mags to try them out? That's what I did and settled on the ETM. Kevin Edited to remove bad manners. Didn't even think about it, my apologies. Chuck's got the correct link.
  7. kevinj308

    The 405

    Everyday brother. Sepulveda pass
  8. Welcome Byron! You know I used to shoot at ISI every month, great match. Mike and Steve have always put on great stages. I really need to get back there soon. You're really gonna like this forum, lots of great people and info. Kevin
  9. Just wanted to follow up on this. I did get the release to work. You were on the right track Carmoney. I ended up having to twist the release clockwise while I was tightening. I tried counterclockwise first and that didn't help, so I just tried the other way for giggles, and there it was. I mean I really put some pressure on it, and then I tightened the screw as much as I dared. I didn't use a torque wrench, but more torque than I would normally apply to a screw of that size. Release feels great, before and after shooting. Not sure what the issue was, I suspect it was a not getting the screw tight enough. Must have been twisting after being fired. I Probably wouldn't have thought of that, would have just kept using the stock release. Thanks for everyone's help. Kevin
  10. You might want to try this guy if you're loading on a single stage. You can buy a smaller quantity of bullets from some major brands and see what you like. http://bulletsamples.com/Home_Page.html Kevin
  11. The short one is 0.98" long and the long one is 1.24" long according to Brownells website. http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=24622/Product/S_W_REVOLVER_EXTENDED_CYLINDER_RELEASE_LATCH
  12. Here's some info on scales from my second favorite place on the web. http://www.6mmbr.com/mxx123test.html http://www.6mmbr.com/prometheus.html One of the things that I take away from the first article is a comparison test with a RCBS 10-10 scale by Jerry Tierney. He's a pretty accomplished dude in that world and his RCBS held plus/minus a tenth of a grain no problem. If you're going by 1% increments then you should be well within tolerance with any high quality beam scale or one of the mid priced electronics like the Dillon. I still use my Dillon beam scale. I zero it every time I take it out, only takes a minute and it doesn't care if the cat farted or the planets aren't in alignment. When the check weight says it's so, it's so. I do my thing in the same environment I zero'd it in and then put it away till next time. I just like the simplicity and reliability of it. Good luck with your chocolate ice cream Kevin
  13. This has solved all my problems. Particularly the second to last bullet point. The lower the operating rod bracket goes the longer effective stroke of the rod. And also the 4th point, the rod must be operating straight out from the press, again to achieve maximum stroke and fully actuate the primer slide. Over time and with alot of use the bracket that holds the rod can be driven up the primer tube and or twisted to one side. Both things serve to shorten the effective stroke of the rod and shorten the travel of the primer slide. I screwed up a couple of rods trying to bend them to fix things when all I needed to do was adjust the bracket. Hope this helps. Kevin
  14. Thanks for the suggestions guys. Kevin
  15. Thanks for all the responses. It's definitely not binding against the frame as I tighten it, I checked and there's plenty of clearance there. In fact with the release tightened there is a little play in the whole release assembly. Just like there is with the factory part installed. I am getting the screw cap tight, but I'll try to bias the release as much as possible to the counter clockwise. Can't hurt to try it. You know I hadn't thought of heat transfer because this happens after just six shots. I wouldn't think enough heat was generated or would transfer that quickly. I've measured the block or male portion of the release that fits into the frame slot very carefully. It's plus or minus .001" of the factory. The after market releases do work prior to shooting the gun. There's something funny going on. Two different parts in two different guns. Same problem. This is my first try with an extended release but I didn't anticipate this kind of issue. I'm typically fairly handy and do most of my work. I'm gonna do some more testing. I didn't check before, but I want to see if I can remove the release and just push the release bolt forward on it's own, or if there's still play in the bolt with 6 fired cases in the cylinder. It seems that it's the fired cases in the cylinder that are part of the problem. No cases, then the release works. Thanks again for the suggestions. Kevin
  16. I've attempted to install a Hogue extended release as well as the CCW part. I must be doing something wrong, or missing something. After firing the gun the release binds and won't budge forward. I've tried both parts in my 625 and an old model 10. Same thing for both of them. I've measured the new parts in every way and very lightly filed/stoned them to match the original parts. I'm really perplexed here. It must be my installation for it to not function in two different guns. After firing my model 10 and being unable to release the cylinder I removed the Hogue part, installed the original factory release and it worked perfectly. What could be going on? Thanks for any thoughts. Kevin
  17. Just finished Outliers, thanks for the tip. Great book, I picked up Blink by the same author while I was shopping. Really liking this author, thanks again for turning me on to him. Kevin
  18. Just finished his new book , Vendetta. If you liked the first one you'll love this one too. Kevin
  19. My wife and I had the same feeling when we discovered brining. The first time we tried it was on the Thanksgiving turkey, best bird we ever had. One of our favorite things to brine are whole chickens. Usually can find them at the store for $5-$10, brine them and then we like to grill them. No a/c in our place so we cook outside most of the time. Great meal and always have leftovers. This is the first recipe I tried, http://www.melindalee.com/index.php?option=com_garyscookbook&Itemid=6&func=detail&id=871, scroll down through the turkey stuff for the brine recipe. After that just try whatever you like, seems like as long as there's salt and water you can throw anything you want in there. It's a pretty good site for cooking in general, she hosts a radio show here in L.A. Happy Brining Kevin
  20. Bump for a great book. Can't recommend it enough. Kevin
  21. I'm not the biggest fan. I have one for my k-frame S&W. I have trouble with it being too tight or to loose as well. The holster is very well made though and is deep enough that even adjusted to be very loose I don't think the gun would ever come out. FWIW I got mine at Opticsplanet.com, they had the best price I could find. Kevin
  22. Glad you guys liked the article, happy to be able to contribute something to a place where I learn so much. Kevin
  23. Thanks for all the info Kevin
  24. I use the CQC for my single stack as well, like it alot. Ready Tactical is another option for Kydex rigs. I do have a Serpa holster for a J frame though and didn't like the lock. I just put a small o-ring, like 1/2 inch o.d., under the lever. It keeps it deactivated and is easy to reverse if I ever wanna do cartwheels. Probably a bit of thick rubber band would be ok too. Just my .02, YMMV. Kevin
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