kevinj308

Dude that's cool. Thanks

550 Priming Assembly Adjustment Notes: * Thoroughly polish frame, wherever priming slide touches it, with green Scotch Brite. (Approx. every 3000 rounds) * Wipe off Primer Slide with solvent or alcohol. Leave it all dry. * At rest primer slide adjustment: Set so that one primer, dropped down the tube, goes all the way into the Primer Seating Cup, 10 times in a row. * Angle of Primer Slide Operating Rod (13869) - Release rod from rollers and swivel it 180º so it's pointing straight up - it should be parallel with the Primer Housing Shield, or maybe outward "a little"; it should not be "inward" at all. * Be sure both screws (14530) that tighten Roller Bracket Shell Platform (14280) from bottom (to the Shellplate Platform) are tight! * Make sure Priming Seating Punch Assembly is fully bottomed out before tightening screw (13996): Measured from bottom of Primer Slide (13920) to top of seated Primer Seating Cup (13284/5), dimension should be between 2.125 - 2.220 inches. * Be sure Priming Operating Rod Bracket (13887) is adjusted so it's within a few thousands of an inch from the top of frame/Toplhead. This is Brian's set of tips for the 550 priming set up. They have always worked for me. Particularly the 4th point, the primer slide operating rod must be working straight out and back from the machine. It's a limited length lever and it needs all the "stroke" or range of movement that it has. If it's off to one side too much it is effectively shortened and won't push the slide all the way back. It might be right on the edge of being enough and causing you an occasional problem. Also the last point I've found very important. Again it has to do with the "stroke" or rang of movement of the rod. The bracket that holds it can work its way up the primer magazine over time or become twisted on the magazine. It's held on by one screw clamping it to the magazine. Make sure it's all the way down to the toolhead. A few thousandths or slightly touching it. Just touching works for me. You adjust both issues the same, by moving the bracket that's attached to the primer magazine. I find that I have to do this occasionally, every several thousand rounds maybe. All the bullet points are worth looking at now and then, but the two I mention weren't obvious to me until Brian pointed them out. The forum is having a technical issue right now, believe me a search will turn up alot. It always comes back to the above. Kevin

http://www.cnn.com/2011/US/03/18/utah.state.firearm/index.html?hpt=T2 That's pretty cool.

Use your turn signal when changing lanes.

BUMMER!!!!!!!!!!!! Glad you're ok, that totally sucks.

I reload all my ammo, except 9mm minor. I just don't find alot of savings there when I factor in my time. Just a personal choice. I'm willing to put up with snappier stuff. I like the Winchester white box, but DC and Atlanta are great choices as well. And they both support the sport tremendously. I suggest you buy your 9, save all that brass, and then when you're totally sucked into the sport you can trade it in to Scharch.com for primed and processed .223 brass for your 3gun AR. Kevin

Wow I missed that from the OP. Absolutely follow Cali's advice and use the clips.

Welcome to round gun world! Those rounds that did go off have a lighter appearing strike because they had a lot of pressure pushing back on them when they went off. The primer of a fired round is not a good indication of how hard they got hit. The light strikes typically come from a loose strain screw or a primer not seated fully. When the primer is not seated fully it absorbs a significant amount of hammer energy. The hammer has to push the primer the rest of the way down and then when it finally meets resistance may not have enough energy left to ignite. The Federal primer recommendation is a good one, but I think the most important is to make sure all primers are fully seated. They should be conspicuously below the case head. By a few thousandths at least. Just for comparison in my 625 with tuned action I can only use Federal primers that I have seated with a hand tool. The tool allows me to feel when the primer has fully seated in the pocket of the case. In my case I use a Lee hand press, RCBS also makes a priming tool. Owners of presses that have adjustable primer seating depth don't have to worry about this. The extra work is the price I pay for a lighter and smoother action. If you check out the revolver section of this thread you'll find that this is the norm for competition guns. Maybe change primer brands if you can, definitely seat them all the way, and then go get some rounds through it and see what happens. If you continue to have problems there is a wealth of revo knowledge on this forum. Kevin

Go here and check out post #4 especially. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=118139&st=0&p=1337795entry1337795 I don't think you have a problem, except for that pause. When its there make the shot. Now if I could just do that too Kevin

I started with the sport and trainer, and quickly bought the #1. I'm not a weightlifter or anything like that but I am a mechanic and work with my hands. I'd say if you're already training for grip strength then start with the #1. It really can't be too much, you're gonna wanna push hard and check yourself on a higher weight frequently. I can't close the #1 with my weak hand, but its close. It really wasn't that hard to close with my strong hand. I can do 3 sets of 10 reps and its just the last few reps on my strong side that I can't close. If it's too light you can use it to warm up. Just my .02, really no way to know whats right for somebody else but I don't think you'd regret having a #1 around. It'll fit in to your schedule somewhere. Good luck Kevin

That's beautiful work!!!!!! Thanks for the pics, really appreciate the sharing of techniques. Kevin

How about limit the number of post the new member can start/reply to during a set number of days. Kind of like vetting out new members before giving them full privileges. If their posts show spam material you will limit it to just a few before you can ban them,and a current member can vouch for a new member bypassing the introductory period. Unfortunately anything you do will require extra work for the admin team. Damn Spammers!!! MDA It's a bummer you gotta go through this at all, but I like this approach better than the question. Believe it or not I didn't always know who JMB was. Would it be a huge job to make a probationary period for new members? Maybe a spammer wouldn't wait 30 days to post. Thanks for putting up with this stuff and working on it. Kevin

Well said. Kevin

Interesting article in the LA Times. http://www.latimes.com/health/la-he-mindfulness-20110109,0,7468666.story Kevin

I'm an amateur, but I started out with a lathe from Sherline. It was really small and underpowered but I sure learned a lot. They're geared almost exclusively to the home machinist and have great customer service. I've got access to bigger and better machines now but still go back to notes I made from that little lathe. I'd recommend getting any and all of the above mentioned books and then just getting to it. Get whatever machine you have space and money for and start doing it. It's really a good time, nothing cooler than when a part comes out just perfect. Here's a page with lots of good suggestions including the books mentioned above. http://www.sherline.com/resource.htm Kevin

I struggle with this as well, I think everybody does at some point. I think it has alot to do with ego as well, speaking for myself anyway. Check out this thread http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91236. One of my all time favorites. Kevin

The dummy round mixed in the mag helped me. I think it just made me wait. Sure I push forward, but it still helped my brain out. Check this out too http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=82124&st=0 Kevin

+1 on the Clays.

Thanks, I'm gonna do that ASAP. Kevin

Hope it's not too much of a thread drift, but do you guys chamfer the cylinder holes on your speedloader guns? I have on my moonclipped 625 and it works great. Just wondering about the SSR/Classic guns. I have the occasional hang up trying to charge the cylinder. Can't seem to see whats hanging up other than maybe a case on the cylinder edge. Thanks Kevin

Like liquid nitrogen freeze? We get it at our welding supply shop for freezing bearings and bushings. They drop right in a press fit bore. We take it out in the field in a thermos, I bet your local Praxair or Airgas would sell you just a little bit to take home. Pour it in your igloo ice chest or something. Just a thought, I've never used it for this application before. Wear a face shield and heavy leather gloves. Use pliers to get the part out, even with the gloves. I'd be really interested to know if you find something, freezing or otherwise, that works. Kevin

I've cut a few cases down just to see how they worked. I used my RCBS case trimmer, really worked well for it. Wouldn't want to do it by hand though. I think they're too short for speed loaders, for me anyway. I fumble enough as it is. Moonclipped though, that would be cool for steel and Icore.

Here's the rule book for a start http://www.icore.org/rulebook.html Basically you've got Classic, 6 shot with speedloaders, limited with iron sights and no compensator, and open anything goes. Power factor is 120 for all divisions. Kevin

Just for some info in my G30 I've used 3.5gr of Clays with a 230 LRN to get 660fps, pf 152. 3.5gr of Trail boss with 230gr LRN made 605fps with a 139pf, The trail boss load was about 90% reliable with a stock recoil spring assembly. I was really just playing around but maybe this would help you get started. If I were looking for a brand new load I'd probably start with the lightest bullet possible. Maybe 185's? I'm a big fan of run what ya brung and have a good time, so go for it. Be safe and have fun. Kevin

That's not entirely accurate. With repetitive motion your central nervous system does become more efficient at firing the required muscles for an activity. Another phrase for this phenomenon is "greasing the groove." Yep. I suggest reading "The Talent Code" by Daniel Coyle. It pertains directly to the OP. One of the most useful books I've ever read. Kevin