kevinj308

Thanks for the info. I might have to give one a try, just seemed like replacement springs and followers were hard to come by. Kevin

Thinking about an S16 Ltd. and wondering what the options are for parts. I realize it uses mostly 1911 parts, except for the extractor, but didn't know about the mags. Can you use other peoples tubes, like STI? Kevin

Interesting article out of the LA Times. Talks about what how hard our mind is working when we are just day dreaming. It's more than just a few paragraphs but I thought it was worth a read. http://www.latimes.com/health/la-he-brain-20100830,0,479095.story?page=1 Kevin

Just a FWIW based on my experience. I've used those same bullets from Missouri, and others as well and have always had some leading in my 625-8. My load is very similar to yours, Clays and a close OAL. I now tumble lube my bullets with Lee liquid alox lube. Doesn't cost much, just takes a few minutes. I just tumble the bullets in a platic container and put the Lee stuff right over the existing lube. Now I just pull a boresnake through once at the end of a match and the bore is shiny clean. The only downside I've found is it does leave a residue in the bullet seating die that needs to be removed periodically. For me that's every couple of hundred rounds. That's about all I do at a sitting anyway. On the other hand my shooting buddy has the same gun, same load as I do and has never had to do anything. His gun just doesn't lead. I'm fairly envious, but I'm happier that I've found something that makes my gun not lead. Hope you find something that works for you, leading is a bummer. When I did have an issue with it I used a Lewis lead cleaner to remove the lead and it worked well. Good luck Kevin

Good customer service and great prices, but I call to check if what I want is in stock. They won't tell you on the website and a back order could be a long time. Kevin

I'd start with NAPA auto parts. At least out here in CA they service heavy duty diesel as well. They can usually get just about anything and the prices aren't bad. If not then your neighborhood Mazda dealer should be able to help. It may not be what they're used to, but if Mazda made it they should be able to get parts. Shouldn't be that big of a deal now that you've identified the engine, hopefully with a model and serial number. If those don't work then just go to a heavy duty truck shop. Any shop that works on semi's. They should be able to get something going. Good luck Kevin

does the engine look like this? water pump to the right side as you're facing it. This is a 3056 Cat, manufactured by Perkins. There's a sticker on the front cover, just below the water pump. That's a shipping tag with a model and serial number. It may still be on your engine. I've seen them last a long time. You might look there.

It may well be a Perkins engine. Cat owns part of that company and uses their engines. It would have a Cat model number like 3046, or 3056. Not to be confused with the much larger and popular 3406 engine. There should be a decal on the valve cover or at the least a stamping of the serial number on the block. Probably towards the rear of the engine just below the cylinder head. I'll try to dig up a picture of a perkins water pump for you to compare too.

It's working for me now. Found the full version button. For the moment everything is working as far as I can tell. Had it open in safari then randomly opened the beginner forum. The full version tab and the language choices were at the bottom.

Doesn't work for me. However the content button in the app on my phone just worked for the first time. Showed 1000 entries since my last visit. I'm posting this from my iPhone. That's cool.

You just gotta love troubleshooting intermittent glitches. That is where gray hair and fair of amount of beer consumption comes from LOL. Thanks again for all the effort. I'm still confused by the English(USA) option that you showed in your picture. Is there an international version and a domestic version that may be getting mixed up? I don't know anything about this kind of thing, so I'm just lobbing rounds downrange. Kevin

I used brianenos.com/forums I also put in my user name and password for the forum. Hope that helps.

I am getting pm's thru the IPB app though, that's cool.

I don't either. I just have Search, Mark as read, and back to top. When open in Safari there is also a line of text to get the app. This text is not there when using the IPB app. I don't seem to have the English(USA) option that is in your picture either. Perhaps different version?

After addding my username and password to the IPB app and then clicking the messenger tab I was prompted to log in to the forum. I entered my username and password on that screen and my pm's opened up. Don't seem to have lost any just a little tough to find. This is my absolute favorite place online. Thanks for all the effort you put into it Brian, and you too BritinUSA. It's very much appreciated. Kevin

That option is not on my Iphone screen, either through Safari or the IPB app. At the bottom I have a blue bar with Search, mark board as read, back to top, and a get the free app link. Thats it.

What he said. Kevin

I've not shot steel with it but was just playing around with Trailboss powder. At 3.5 gr, 230gr LRN, 1.25 OAL in my 5" SS I got 635fps, pf 146. Only shot 20 or so rounds but used my normal recoil spring of 16#. Functioned fine and was accurate but you could take a nap waiting for the slide to cycle. Would definitely reduce the spring weight if I was gonna run it in a match. Trailboss has worked pretty well for me in other download applications too, you might wanna look into it. Welcome back to shooting! Kevin

You know mine do the same thing. Never a problem with the loaded stuff. I particularly had this problem with plated bullets, although lead does it as well,it just takes more reloads. Not sure what to do about it other than use the bullet puller to get them back out, recrimp and keep practicing. Now that I think about it I'm gonna keep my eye out for a bullet with a crimping groove and maybe roll crimp. Kevin

That kid Kelly can shoot a rifle for sure. http://accurateshooter.wordpress.com/2009/09/08/young-yank-wins-honors-at-canadian-fullbore-championships/ Gotta be tough to be a young kid in that crowd, good for him and the History Channel for putting this out there. Kevin

Here's a thread that helped me, http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212717. alot of stuff on rimfire central for this. I love mine. Kevin

I clicked shorten the strain screw but I've also used a reduced power hammer spring in my N frame. Lightening the hammer strike to be reliable with Federal primers. Then I played with the rebound spring to balance it out. In my K frame however I ended up using the stock spring after some trial and error with aftermarket ones. It just worked better, and a slightly shortened strain screw. The two guns needed different things to end up feeling the same. That's how it worked for me anyway, sure had alot of fun playing with them and learned some stuff too. Good luck and have fun! Kevin

I do mean 3.9. I've run as low as 3.7, but to get a consistant avereage power factor of 128-130 for IDPA in all my game guns (67-1, 15-3, 65-5, 66-3 and 686-6) I've settled on 3.9 Clays with a 158 moly bullet at COL 1.5 and Federal small primers (standard or match). I also use this load with straight lead 158 grn bullets. No offense meant, just sounds pretty hot to me and definitely off the chart as far as published data goes. I thought maybe you were referring to Universal Clays rather than straight Clays. With the Universal it would be right in the ballpark. Stay safe Kevin

You don't really mean 3.9 right?

I use my 1911 holster, happens to be a Blackhawk, but I think just about any kydex 1911 holster will work just fine with a little adjusting of the tension screws. A leather holster I don't know if it would work though. I definitely have to tighten up the screws just a bit to use my HP. That's been my experience. Kevin