Amerflyer48

not so much about setback as to build a little pressure before the bullet starts moving on its way, a consistent starting point if you will My setup is to taper crimp about .003" under resized size for my 148's works in my K38, 586, 10 and my 52 S&Ws also crimping assures you have removed any belling that could affect a reload with speedloaders if you use them those 231 and Bullseye loads toothguy mentioned are the place to start John

found this for you in the search Welcome to the forum http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=114355

you could also just measure the amount of seating plug insert above the die body using the depth feature of a dial caliper I do that with my .38Spl when I switch from my usual SWC to flush seat my wadcutters or just make a spacer to put under the seating die before you load, do that with my .38 / .357 Mags I guess I could do that with my 10mm/.40 setup too but I just have 2 sets of dies I have 3 sets of 30-06 dies setup 1 for my M-1 one for my 1903 match rifle and the 3rd. for the other 3 rifles if I had a 550 or a 650 instead of a 450 I would just setup different die blocks and be done with it. guess you won't know until you run off 50 or so, let us know how it works one of the joys of this is 3 people will come up with about 9 ways to do it.. John

I was thinking of using a few washers they being lighter than a quarter and the hole in the middle venting any air pressure so I can also eliminate the "air spring" effect Vented Lighweight Buffer replacement Disk maybe shorten it to VeLBR might whistle a bit though

if it works then folks will be experimenting with a Hydrogen/powder mix ? check out my 9mmMajor~Hindenberg BoomWhooossshh !

Haters Gonna Hate --------------------------------- <~~~~~~ Thin Line Between Love & Hate

That post is for after he gets it running and asks the question : which comp/brake works best ? "The AR Platform : a whole box of physics, then you start making your own ammo and ballistics tables " Doug H. a round of cold beers for you.

didn't see anything I liked so I bought some webbing and fastex buckles and made my own,so far works great but have a few more ideas to try out I used to build boat canvas so the old sewing machine comes in handy now and then so far a fun project to play with I always enjoyed the R&D aspect.

yeah the Damn things cause gas shortages,... from filling up the truck to drive and pickup components to keep the things well fed !

I would use the other particulars and try a few powders of known ability to work up something, we know bullet weight and approx charge weight so go to your books and grab a chrono and load up any powders that come close to that velocity around that weight and see what the rifle likes. it might be an available powder it might not so look to the spherical powders that push a 77 at around 2800 without maxing out pressure I make it a general practice to never guess when dealing with things over about 4,000 PSI saves ER bills and explinations to gunsmiths as far as a fools mission the only thing foolish would be guessing powders without verifying said powder is close to the result you are looking for and loading a few up "just to try out"

sounds like she is planning "lil shooting buddies" in your future together and is afraid of reloading room residual effects (primer and lead dust etc.) My Dad had his setup in the garage until we were old enough to load and shoot with him then it all got moved into a big cabinet looking setup that when closed hid it all from prying eyes and kept it all from heat extremes and humidity an old bed sheet cover and keep an eye on the smaller parts they will show any rust hoping to form first. wishing you Joy and Happiness on all fronts J

Primer flow is the primer material flowing back into the firing pin hole around the firing pin and/or filling out the perimiter of the primer pocket across the breech face end of the casing. normal primer hit has just the dimple of the firing pin higher pressures and "flow" would have the dimple with a tiny ridge around the dimple and possibly flattened edges whenre the primer meets the primer pocket along that edge instead of the slight turn in that an unfired or lower pressure round would show. this shows all sorts of primer issues just keep in mind we do tend to run higher pressures depending on what caliber and PF we run, this is why alot of folks around here use SR primers in the .38Supers etc. thicker cups will resist flow better and most of the time the guns aren't stock and are built to run hotter bottom of the page shows 3 levels of a 9mm for comparison. http://stevespages.com/diagnosingproblems.html

Were these dies in a new (as in from RCBS) sealed box ? sounds almost like you have 2 resizing dies with one decapping rod missing or someone added a taper crimp die as my searching only shows a standard 3 die set,even tried looking for a 4 die set no luck older die sets will have an expanding die that colects dust as it is unneccessary in a progressive that charges through the expander/powder funnel Does the "FL resizing die" have a TC on it somewhere ? in that case it would be a taper crimp die (4th station) and used after the seating die if not then is it possible someone swapped the decapping rod into an expander die making it look like a universal decapper type die? Also there is nothing saying that the powder has to drop in station 2 just push it to station 3 and maybe add a small mirror to check powder charging as it would lose the fail safe rod doing that I loaded alot of rounds before they added the failsafe rod without a hitch using a small mirror much the size of a dental type mirror and setting a light to shine into the case. decap and prime resize powder seat&crimp then again the other option is to setup a spare tool head and decap them on just a station 1 and passing through the rest of the stations then resize and prime in the same step just before powder and seat. if it is a 4 die set I wonder why RCBS did the dies like that though, could you post up a pic or 3 ? I just can't see the 10mm needing an extra die step vs. a 9mm or a .45 which I also load and I have never seen a die set for pistol set up like this but have seen a 3 die set with a Taper crimp die added to make 4 like Lyman sells. Just some thoughts on something I am finding intriguing

not sure what it is exactly you are meaning but it usually goes insert empty 10mm case downstroke arm 1 Decap/resize then prime on upstroke index 2 Powder charge and bell case mouth index 3 seat index taper crimp index into bin most folks usually get a second die to handle the crimp separate from the seating operation or you would just seat/crimp in station 3 leaving 4 open however usually the resize/decap and priming operation are done on station 1 as one smooth motion my setup is actually a mix of RCBS,Lyman and Dillon dies for my 10mm and my RCBS resizer also deprimes while sizing Hope this helps

Always on the fence about the strong mount until this week a buddy needed to store all his reloading gear at my house for cleaning up the fire mess so I have temporary custody of a 650 on a strong mount among others for probably 4-6 months but the new setup will be awesome I will be getting the strong mount for my 450/Modified (powder upgrade and roller handle) soon, you can mount the press back from the edge of the table until the handle hits the table on the downstroke( could set yours further back using that notch I bet) and they have hangers for loaded rounds back from the edge so no worries there the strong mount may cost you bench space but with the tray mounts you get it back up off the bench. without a strong mount the notch probably wouldn't work for your bin setup though you might with some work with a saw relieve a bit more of the bench to accomodate the bin, hard to tell from pic but looks like some surgery is needed, I'd go strong mount and put it up in the air. And if you have to remove the press from the bench it will stand on its own, also the tool rack is a handy thing and I am also looking at the tray mount for bullets etc. I have long considered a setup with 1/4-20 bolts and "T-nuts" mounted in the bench or a bench plate drilled and tapped like the one RCBS offers so I can store the presses on a shelf and have my bench for other uses since I also have a current space issue and would probably solve your car mirror issue. I would suggest keeping the support under the presses on the beefy side as you can really torque a bench when loading rifle calibers (resizing) on a 450/550 also you will have to support the extra weight of a full 650 (bullets,brass etc. adds up) and I prefer a "solid" feeling when I reload helps me with my rhythm currently the 650 is dissasembled and the strong mount is laying in the box but I would estimate an 8"x8" footprint maybe somebody or the Dillon website would give you a proper footprint measurement. Hope this helps, John

will be 10 years on Thursday, May you always be happy and never go to bed mad at each other, always keep the lines of communication, open though it sounds like you have that covered as for the Les Baer, well you might be on your own for that one but good luck there also

could also try a .45 cal bronze brush insert chamber end and force it till the front of the brush,first few bristles, gets in front of chamber and rest are in the case body and pull back sometimes the brush will grab the case walls firmer than the case walls grab the chamber and it will pop out. not sure if freezing it first would help though as metals will shrink and expand at different rates but that helps when I get rifle brass stuck in a resizing die so maybe that could help before you use the brush I'd try this sequence maybe... 1: Kroil 2: freezer overnight (bagged so as to not Kroil andy food) 3: bronze brush and pull while still frozen

They usually frown upon carry questions here but I will answer this as a "hypothetical IDPA sort of question" though I don't know if these holsters are approved for IDPA use. Glock 23 in an Alien gear here,would almost use it in a match as I can reholster without "dropping trou" like some IWB holsters and am unsure as to it's legality in IDPA and though I haven't timed it vs. my Safariland USPSA rig it does seem pretty quick once the draw sequence is initiated....Basically the same could be said about the Crossbreed,Comp Tac, and others like this ( leather back plate/kydex shell ) Old Reliable makes them as kits if you like building your own... Have always believed carrying is a full time thing or a no time thing, badguys don't descriminate and though it may "look OK over there" it might be too good to be true.. but I can also see where one might like to have the option available I don't because I never liked leaving one behind in an unattended vehicle (theft) and always carry concealed, I blame it on my upbringing in Massachussetts whiich required concealed and IIRC no leave in car unattended back then. Just a thought to think about : This is the only pistol I own that I hope turns to a pile of dust before it's primary intended role is needed,but will be glad it is there and ready if that start buzzer ever beeps

looks like it is all 450 to me. My first upgrade to the 450 was the Powder system, reasoning : if you forget to pull primer lever you know if you forget the powder lever,...... do you also have a bullet puller? the second will be the priming system the final step to 550hood the toolhead conversion, me I prefer setting my dies every time and though more time consuming it does save me some space on the bench toolheads and stands vs. die boxes and I just load more than I think I need before changing calibers over and in my mind there is no "toolhead slop" issue you see some folks posting about which will be debated much like caliber vs. caliber Glock vs. 1911 etc. I'm OK with a fixed head 450. Dillon also makes a 450/550 service Kit with small parts, pipe cleaners,lube etc. there will be new tube ends in there also and it is a handy kit to have also a rebuild by Dillon wouldn't be a bad idea if you plan to get into "normal" volumes of ammo for around here keep your tubes clean and dry and the primer follower is optional I have never used one the weight stack is sufficent for all but the last 5 or so when the tubes get primer dust in them, long pipe cleaners work or a carefully used Q-Tip and a rod and no more stuck primers. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. John

Pictures will help greatly along with looking about Dillons site as to what the full upgrade looks like he could have upgraded the slide but not the housing which would have a long connecting rod and roller John

first purchase, a good notebook and keep meticulous notes on every reloading session then a good set of check weights Always good to verify from time to time Lyman makes an excellent set,use them before load workup keeping in mind that if you recalibrate the scale later it will change the load data you may already have worked up the other option is to accept the scale as it is and work up the loads for your ammo with only that scale or use some bullets and casings weighed on a known accurate scale as "poor mans check weights" I once used my Titanium wedding ring as a check weight John

What is Taurus doing different, Brownells used to sell clear sideplates for S&W and stressed that the revolver not be shot while this plate is in place that frame has to flex I don't see the plexi holding up well long term nice gimmick though.

another showing of the FORTIS prototypes ~sigh~

Until the gun cycles. All this would do is turn the follower into the last shot in the tube. As a bonus, you would have a bunch of coil spring in the action to make things really interesting. just following Petshop and Kurt down that rabbit hole but if you glued a shell head to the follower you wouldn't have to worry about the spring unless it fed the follower up into the receiver You could step back to slotting the follower so you could use your car keys to push the modified follower/shell end back into the tube so you can then reload there is a funny YouTube video in the making right there,.. Would vote for the captured follower tube replacement as posted earlier sort of like the one on my cheap Mossberg 500

Shell catches, follower doesn't because it doesn't have a lip/rim to catch on you could take knocking the primer out to the next step and open it up a tad more with a Dremel Some hunting ammo comes already blacked out save you a step .forget which brand though