Amerflyer48

Somehow that has to be worked into a stage description..... maybe not.... BC Clay birds painted brown littering the charge lines time added for each clay stepped on/in

You are referring to the little steel plate under the primer slide ? My 450 works fine without it I remember when they "upgraded" the RL550 with it and Dads 550 with 3 of us using it worked fine without it, just had to clean it every so often and motor mica as a dry lube, functioned fine before and after adding this part might help with wear to the press frame being Aluminum rubbing with an aluminum primer slide if I recall that is also about the time they started coating the primer slides also.

been thinking about these... would like to retire my paperclip

Usually if your AR doesn't have a mag in it and locked back (or loaded mag) any decent tap to the rifle butt will trip the bolt release BAD/PHASE 5 lever or not. inertia from the tap causes the bolt to ride back and unload the stop which is spring loaded and disengages before the bolt returns forward John

P.O. Ackley documented .22 lead in a 1-6 twist spinning up to a .40 or so caliber before shattering in one of his books a 55 gr. going 3,000 fps. in a 1-8 spins at 270,000 RPM (MV * 720 / twist = RPM) Hornady V-Max are rated at around 290,000 I remember some of the late 80's varmint bullets stating on the box to use in 1-10 twist or greater want to say Sierra blitzkings Saw a shooter at a 200 yard Offhand match have this happen to him with his .222 Rem silhouette rifle the sunlight was behind us and setting , target puller marked as miss so we watched his next shot as he usually shot 8's and 9's looked like he was shooting copper glitter out of his rifle POOF is a good description about 40 yds. or so out so we set a target hanger out @ 50 yds. and it patterned John

I don't think a LSWC would make the best hunting bullet. Elmer Keith and a lot of Buffalo hunters would disagree with you the big flat meplat is pretty disruptive to soft tissue and they penetrate very well.

loaded many a 9mm on my 550 with Unique including 500-750 through full auto guns though I will say it is an older measure before all the newer linkage so maybe that is a possible problem spot a few tricks/tips : Dryer sheet to combat any static electricity rub inside the tube before pouring in powder reduces clumping clean/degrease and if needed polish the inside of the powder funnel. light check every round for powder, (trust but verify) Hope this helps John there is a thread here somewhere as to "tuning" your powder measure where to check for burrs etc. and polishing

Harvard Sportsmens Club in Harvard Mass. there is also a club in Boston I think I used to shoot Harvard back in the early 90's great club John

For rifle I deprime /resize on an old single stage (also keeps the crap out of my Dillon) so I can check length and trim (Lyman universal trimmer) if needed kick the media out of the primer pocket etc. then it is into a bin to be loaded on the Dillon, for pistol I just load them up then again I don't reload quite the volume I used to. Primer pockets other than removing crimp get no special treatment from me.I experimented with a few to see any accuracy changes with my S&W M-52 and saw no measureable differences. John P.S. I thought the wet/SS media cleaned primer pockets for you ? shows them nice and shiny on the website. you could always get an old single stage press and deprime before you tumble no need to worry about clogged flash holes so you should be able to load em up after that

When you remove your sight base you will see your gas port there you have to make sure your port in the barrel and the port opening in your gas block line up some gas blocks have a spacing issue and you end up with a partial or no line up which makes for partial or no cycling when you go to the range.. Bryan 45 where did you get the pink ribbon rail cover ?

the physics screams a tumbling bullet can't be accurate, like a tumbling football cant be as accurate as a spiraled ball.. proper core ? as in weight or seated funny or not seated in the base (nose heavy) Guess I will weigh all 200 of mine and see if it is a weight issue any of this ammo left you could shoot at say 200 and see if the tumblers are still anywhere near the POA ? it is an interesting phenomena to say the least I'd like to see more groups at different distances to get a picture of the path of these tumblers or more info as to the defect that causes this to happen John

Varmint bullets tend to have thinner jackets, could it be possible you had a few casings longer than the others and got a bit more crimp possibly damaging the jacket destabilizing the round and causing a downrange tumbling to begin at say 85-90 yds. which would still be mostly accurate vs. a bullet that starts tumbling at say 45-50 yds. which would be all over the landscape. I remember a shooter once(1993 or so) that had a problem with some varmint bullets spinning too fast and coming apart due to too fast a twist don't remember the bullet or the twist rate but they never made it to 200 yds. he went from 9s and 10s to misses and finally figured he grabbed the wrong box of ammo for his .222 silhouette rifle ( he aslo shot prairie dogs with a .222 ) Natchez shows in the notes a 1-12" to 1-10" twist for this bullet maybe you are on the edge of shattering due to centrifugal force (?) and only destabilizing.. Hope not I have 200 of those bullets about to be loaded into my BHW 1-8 AR-15 John P.S. using your load data (IMR site posts 24.6c @ 3200 fps. +/-) and info provided your bullet is spinning at about 258,600 RPM A post over at shootersforum.com shows Hornady saying 260,000 RPM is the ceiling so having said that you are in the realm of bullet distortion which could cause serious yawing and/or coming unglued. given variances between published data and your individual rifle you could be overspinning easily. MV * 720 / twist = RPM fun with math http://www.shootersforum.com/ballistics-internal-external/78073-f-y-i-varmint-bullet-rpm-limits.html

Headspace is done when they install the extension onto the barrel the end user can't adjust that easily. Standard set for the barrel nut is 35 ft. lbs. back off retorque to 35 again back off then retorque to 35 and continue until the nut lines up with the reciever allowing the gas tube to go through make sure you arent off here as it will cause cycling issues if the tube binds. May want to double check if the procedure for torque values is the same when replacing a nut I have only seen sets for new recievers not sure as you are "reusing" your upper if the values would change, either way anti-seize is your friend Also measure the port from the shoulder and the port from the back of your gas block most dont take into account the lack of handguard spacer and you will have a single shot until you figure that one out and move the block forward to align the holes properly if there is a difference feeler guages make an excellent spacer while torquing down think most claim a .070" difference found. John

Yep, that is how I regulated a set of sights on a sixgun I own ran out of adjustments using a 220 gr. shoots the 155LSWC /180JHPs just fine and beats filing down sights Herters .401 PowerMags John as far as barrel time and recoil they are spot on lighter/faster bullet needs less counter adjustment to sights or follow through

Prayers sent for your family too many people are becoming familiar with C it needs to be evicted from the planet. John

it may come back to you 18-20 years ago I loaned out a holster and 3 mag pouches to a new shooter about a year ago she found me on FB and asked for my address. it is an old rig for a 5" made by a local leather guy back in the 80's might have to get a set of skip checkered grips and go full-retro at a match this year John

I take that to mean your front sight is now gone,.. I use a Rainier Arms version of the Samson Rail and am very happy with it though it is a 12.37" on a rifle gas system but here it is.

you could always re-upper it later if it is a problem until then just shoot it.. the lower really doesnt see any stress but I would start looking for an upper to replace if it will fit the carbon lower,might doublecheck that before starting the search...saw someone post they had a STAG upper on their carbon lower but haven't seen one so can't be certain. John

if you value your rifle,face,fingers etc. DO NOT use pistol primers in a rifle even subsonic loads should be Rifle Primers... you can go the other way but pressures in the rifles are too high to even think about using pistol primers..has to do with primer cup hardness Pistol cups are softer or we would have simply used Mag primers in our .38Supers instead of small rifle primers when we reached the old PF of 175+ Estimate about 20,000 +/- PSI difference between .38Super and a .223 Rem. ! Look for someone who is willing to trade those primers for some Small Rifle Primers John

http://www.house.mo.gov/billtracking/bills131/biltxt/intro/HB0545I.HTM

maybe a talented machinist could sleeve it like a racing engine/diesel block ? a threaded steel insert wouldn't add much weight or maybe even just a sleeve with the meanest lock-tite retaining compound and a pin ? Just a thought as parts are scarce these days and might be something to look into Good Luck if you try John

wow, I still use the RCBS swager set, time to upgrade perhaps... mostly mil calibers will be crimped have seen .30-06 .308 .223 .45 and 9mm even saw some old .38SPL once John

I bought my Browning Medalist when I was 18 cleaned it thouroughly to establish a baseline in 24 years my cleaning regimen is crown,breechface,boltface with a swab or T-shirt patch in all those years I have swabbed the bore once more and detailed strip twice as the once piece grips are tricky to put on and off without breaking them. My Dads has had a cleaning rod down the bore 3 times in 47 years. they both shoot cloverleafs from a rest @ 50ft. with CCI Match with the self lubing qualities of most lead .22LR unless your feeding it all high speed plated you should never have to clean the bore my 10-22 I use for squirrels will get a boresnake or a patch if I get caught out in the rain ( Rimfire Central has a post on drilling the receiver so you can run the rod through in the proper direction.) but more as a precaution of water in the barrel causing problems than leading concerns. John

Yep a gentle easy decap stroke then you can deposit them in a can of oil to permanently deactivate and discard. John P.S. if you go the WD-40 route Youngeyes is suggesting make sure you get the casings spottlessly clean of WD residue or they will deactivate the new ones as it migrates well. you probably could just soak primed empties in water then decap as the water will be a temporary disabler just clean and dry your press afterwards and when the empties are dry reload as normal John

Once again we are reminded how precious life is and how it can be shortened and to hold those left behind close and cherish every moment Rest Easy Denise we will carry on the fight in your memory John