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Found 12 results

  1. Hello all! This is my first post, so please bear with me if this is posted in the wrong place (moderators please move this topic if this is the case). Also I have not yet mastered the search function, so I apologize in advance if this has been covered in the past. I have a tendency to ramble, but I'll try and stay on topic... A little about me: I started building 1911/2011's about 4 years ago (the first few were built from 80% receivers, yuck!) and at this point I have built two dozen or so. At this point, I would like to think I am reasonably competent when it comes to building th
  2. Hi everyone I just finished a 1911 build minus a front sight that is in the mail from an 80% RIA frame a colt slide that someone had mildly changed from GI and an RIA barrel with a Sarco GI parts kit. This was the education first build for me and man was it ever an education. I had been told to start with a cheap kit to learn on. Lets just say there wasn't a whole lot that was square or as flat as I would of liked to to been. The mill took care of some but others I just had to live with. I in the end is fired 65 test rounds flawlessly once I ditched the Sarco mag for a Wilson and t
  3. This is going to be a multi video process. Stay tuned for further videos. They can also be viewed on my Youtube Channel. More videos to follow shortly 3. Removing The trigger bar and trigger assembly - (SEE ABOVE FOR POLISHING) 4. Removal of stock staked trigger pin 5. Installation of CGW reduced power trigger return spring and CGW floating trigger pin 6. Reassembly 7. Testing
  4. I like doing weird things to my guns and making them unique. I want to put a new finish on my s&w 929 hammer and I think hot blueing is the way to go, but I've read on other forums that cold blue can eat holes in mim parts and now I'm thinking that a hot blue could do the same. I know the finish wont be as dark as it would be on carbon steel, but is it at least a viable option? Thank you
  5. So I couldn't find ANY info on the internet on this topic, so I'm beginning a new thread. I own a CZ 75 Tactical Sport and do all my own gunsmithing. I've done a lot of work to my gun, all of it myself. I'll attach a list at the bottom of this page. As many of you probably know, through CZ USA and CZ Custom (http://czcustom.com/CZ75SAOTrigger.aspx), you can buy a flat-blade trigger for the Tactical Sport. Pretty cool, right? Well, for dudes like me with monster hands (and/or long fingers) that trigger sits so far back in the trigger guard that my trigger finger looks like a pirate hook to ge
  6. Hi all, I have an interesting question (I think...) I normally shoot GLOCK, but I have a romantic attraction to the 1911 that I'm sure many of us have felt at some point. Recently I acquired a Springfield Armory TRP Operator with a Bull Barrel and full-length guide rod. My problem is that although I am a GLOCK Certified Armorer (that's not saying much) I have never known anything but the striker-fired, plastic anti-1911. I plan on getting another 1911 (not yet determined) to shoot USPSA Single Stack with, and I will also be using the Operator in L-10 occasionally at a local match. But like I
  7. Hello all, I am new to this forum and am looking for some help with removing a stuck case out of the chamber of my SA XDm .40 S&W 4.5''. The end of the brass case blew back and separated from the rest of the brass which is still stuck in my chamber. No other harm was done to the gun or me. But about 2/3 of the brass case is stuck in my barrel. I have tried cerrosafe multiple times with no luck. Any input would be appreciated. Bluedog14
  8. ...so I asked myself the question "What is the cheapest 2011 I can build?". I generally buy top end parts for all my competition 2011's and the cost is generally around $1400 - $1600 in parts. After reading about kguns11' frames (Freedom Gunworks), I decided to order one for a open build. Long story short, I ordered two and therefore I will have one ready for an additional build. So back to the original question... What is the cheapest way one could build a 2011? Can a reliable 2011 be built for less than $900 in readily availabe parts? -TriggerMeister P.S. This post has nothing to do
  9. One day while trying to take as much weight off my original TS Slide, my local machinist (who does amazing work) accidentally milled through the place where the recoil rod and spring mount into the front of the slide. Really, its something I didn't think to advise him of and he, doing mostly 1911s and 2011s didn't think to look into it. He fixed it by cutting a SS cross section, milling an exact replica of the countersink face then TIG welding it in place and also lathe-ing a longer recoil rod that it now takes to use. The slide works, its just not pretty. Anyway by the grace of god I
  10. Hello all, Long time lurker here. I've benefited greatly from all the advice I've observed over time. I just picked up a second M&P Pro 5" in trade, as well as a KKM barrel. This is my second Pro, my first being my favorite pistol to shoot despite some subpar accuracy and a dislike for 115 gr bullets. I attempted to install the KKM in the new Pro, and found while cycling the action that it feels like it "hangs" just a split second when drawing the slide back. Further, if I ride the slide into battery at all, the slide stops a fraction of a inch from all the way forward. I can push it
  11. Greeting to the group, I need to have a couple of pistol receivers Anodized. Wondering if there is anyone that has the ability to do the process. I can do the bead blasting and have them "basically" clean. Will ship one of the Parkerized barrels to have on hand to for compariion..Not looking for a perfect match,,just a more durable coating then what I suspect that an epoxy coating would do..Can be contacted at < aircavvietnam@yahoo.com >
  12. I have a loaded SA 1911 with stock rear adjustable target rear sight and a front solid black sight. I want to replace the front sight with a high visibility front sight. I chose tritium since it looks to be a better choice for indoor range shooting. The front sight measures .130 tall by .125 wide. Where can I get a suitable replacement in Tritium? Thanks
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