RPatton

I agree. I have never noticed the gas when shooting close to a wall. I also use a charging handle operated from the right side. As for the shotgun, I would not buy a left handed model.

+1 I worked the 90 round shotgun stage at this years 3MAN3GUN in Topton PA. It took more time to shoot most all of the 3 man teams than it did to reset the stage. It was a blast.

+1 on the MEC My MEC 650 was used when I bought it and it works like a champ. My 60Jr was bought new in 1968 and still works like it's new. I would assume the 9000 is also a quality product.

Build one. You can always build a slide and barrel to switch to the other caliber. If you have it built and you like it then never sell it.

Full length just means you are sizing most of the case. Some full length will size more than others by design. A once through die or a Case Pro are the only 2 ways I know to full length size brass.

Yes. Yes. It eliminates bullet "setback". No cons that I've noticed. Never seen any ill effects on brass. I have seen a LOT of ill effects caused by NOT using one.

That looks like a perfectly square corner where the crack initiated. That may not have happened had the corner been milled with a radius cut which would help to eliminate the stress riser. Factory Wilson/Nowlin cut barrels come that way. Good luck with the new barrel.

+1 Are you running a shock buffer? Do you have to push it all the way forward or just bump it to make it start moving? If you haven't seen the inside of it you are wasting time.

Have you had a conversation with anyone from Tanfoglio? If this isn't a common problem you may have some defective mags? If it is a common problem they should fix it.

I read the OP and checked my 505. I noticed that the hooks on your loop are square with the beam. The rear hook on mine is twisted about 20 degrees and it has been that way about 40+ years. No matter where I position the loop or the object being weighed the scales never vary by more than .05 grains. I have a 20grain weight and a 1OZ weight I use to check the scale and it is always the same.

If he owes you money then it won't be a "free" press.

+1 on the polish. Make sure there are no square edges on any surfaces that must slide over each other when you load the first round. A Dremel tool and Cratex works great for this sort of thing. Brownells sells it and you will find it has many uses when it comes to polishing gun parts.

I believe what the OP was trying to accomplish is getting the slide to lock open on an empty mag. His issue is not with the barrel locking into the slide when it's in battery but the slide closing on an empty chamber because the slide didn't lock open after firing the last round. Let's not confuse him anymore. He may be somewhat confused now but after he installs his new slide stop so his slide will lock back only to have his slide not go into battery at least he will not be surprised.

Not Brasso and I have no idea how many times that brass had been reloaded.

The problem with using the barrel for a case gauge is the barrel does NOT completely encircle the case all the way to the edge of the rim the same way a case gauge does. A damaged rim or bulged case MAY just happen to line up with some portion of the barrel other than under the barrel hood and appear to be OK, but when it counts, Mr. Murphy will put that bulge directly under the barrel hood and lock up the gun. Dropping the bullet in the barrel rim first will eliminate the problem of a damaged case rim causing a jam. You must first know your OAL is not allowing your bullets to hit the lands when chambered before assuming that dropping in rim first will catch any problem ammo. I always did the rim first check after loading and then with the bullet first the night before any major match. I have checked ammo after loading and then later found cracked cases after it had been loaded for a while. The cracking seemed to be a problem only with some cast bullets that were 205 grain .401" bullets loaded in brass that was sized in a U die. Old brittle brass was probably the root cause of that problem. Check ammo bullet first. Check it rim first. Put all ammo in 100 round boxes and verify you have no high primers.....and that you actually have primers. Shoot it. That may work on .40 S&W, but it won't work on cases like the .38 Super, plus you now have to handle the round twice to do what a good case gauge will do in one. Ming you are correct about the 38 Super. I guess that somewhere along the line we went from discussing a rimless 40 to discussing a rimmed 38 Super and I missed that turn in this road. If you use the rim first technique on 38 Super you will have a 100% reject rate.

I would load it as long as I could, within the limits of the plunk test and then what will go in the magazine. After bullets pass those tests then find a length that your gun will digest with 100% reliability. Start with a min 147gr load and go from there. I have an STI and load Xtreme 147s at 1.180

A friend of mine bought himself a new 1911 for his birthday and had it stolen from his truck 3 weeks later. The local PD called him 5 years later and said they had his gun. When he went to get it, they told him he would have to produce his bill of sale, which he no longer had. He went back to the shop he bought it from and they were able to find his records only because he knew the approximate date that he bought it. He got his gun back but it looked like hell. Any else ever have this experience?

Started with curved, went to flat, haven't looked back. Get a flat and trim as necessary to get the length you need.

A friend of mine has a DeWalt multi-cutter saw. It's the Rolex of chop saws. It uses a 14" carbide blade and goes through steel like butter and the cuts aren't even warm to the touch. $400 on Amazon and perfect for the tool snob. I opted for the DeWalt chop saw for the masses, $100 at a pawn shop. It's like new and I like it. For a one time use, if you could rent a multi-cutter saw that would be the way to go. You don't have to clean up the cuts because it actually cuts the steel rather than grinding it apart.

Reduced loads with slow burning powders can cause erratic performance and dangerous pressure spikes. Not sure this would apply to pistol powders.

"Steve McQueen looks good in this movie. He must have made it before he died."- Yogi Berra In the '50s and '60 yogi worked for Yoo-Hoo. At a Yoo-Hoo convention a woman asked Yogi if Yoo-Hoo was hyphenated. Yogis' response, "No ma'am. It isn't even carbonated." Yogi was truly one of kind. R.I.P. Yogi

I have found my firing pin stop cracked, twice. Neither caused the gun to stop running.

I saw that happen to a friend of mine, twice in the same night. We found the extractor the first time and I actually got it back in the slide without dis-assembly and that ain't easy. (I had never played with a Glock at that time.). Both times it was with Fiocchi brass that ruptured. I dissected some brass and found Fiocchi to be thinner than other brands where the brass is unsupported in a Glock chamber. While not a part failure it will be the end of your day without a replacement part.

As for the dies it is because the chambers are the same with the exception of the neck length of the chamber. Now that you mention it they could sell more dies that way. And yes, some manuals do have 556 load data.

The only part I ever had break in a big match was At the TN Section match in '95 when a Briley 45 barrels lower lugs started to pull away from the barrel. Lucky for me it was on the last shot of a stage and I could not move the slide to show clear. The RO had hands like Andre the Giant and he moved it with great difficulty. Briley said it was installed incorrectly. I told them who installed it and they sent me a new barrel. The backup gun came in handy that day. Had a sear split down the middle and found it when cleaning.