MemphisMechanic

If rounds won't spin freely, and fall out effortlessly after being tapped on the backside the moment you flip the barrel over... you've found much of your problem.

350-500 rounds and 500 or so dryfires had no affect on the trigger weight. Polishing the internals of the slide also did nothing to change the weight my gauge was averaging - but removing the "zipper" feeling to the firing pin block could be felt in a smoother trigger pull.

When you get the itch to make A/M/GM glass and shoot 700+ rounds a week in practice, you'll get the 1050 bug.

I agree on it being visually deceiving. You want to insert a magazine a bit further forward than the center of the actual opening, and it needs to be angled rearward (less vertical) than the grip makes you think it should be.

You'll want a 650 within a few months. And a 1050 within a few months more. Fair warning.

Regarding sights returning left of center at speed, adjust grip pressure between your left and right hands. Try crush gripping the gun with the left (weak) hand, and relaxing the strong hand slightly. You can steer how the gun tracks in recoil this way - biasing pressure between left & right hands.

Return the gun to factory and it will likely run 100% unless it's an ammo issue. Alternatively, if you want to try to change one part at a time to tryand fix it without swapping everything out? If you've gone to a lightened aftermarket striker, swap the factory one back in after polishing it as that change usually fixes things. If you're still using the factory striker, return to the factory striker spring first.

At 25 yards? Personally I'd find 1.5" at that distance to be rather impressive for a plastic gun like Glock or M&P Next time, drop the factory barrel back in and shoot them back to back.

Was it a heavier bullet? Conversely, my 135gr load with an SD of 23 (velocities varied by 100fps)? 2.5" at 25 through an M&P with an Apex hand fitted barrel.

But that's far afield from my initial point. Even if I were able to somehow know the ammo would chrono exactly what I wish it to when I went to a Major (so I could get away with 125.01 PF ammo?) I'd still load to about 133-135pf. I like the way the gun runs, and how it feels, and that extra padding when it comes to tipping over steel. Most novices try to load the softest ammo they can get away with. A few seasons later, you're loading consistent ammo that's more reliable and a hair hotter because you learn that you don't shoot it any slower.

Sarge, that was his reasoning for staying 2 SDs above 125.00 pf. The worst of the worst ammo would still be more than hot enough. A good example of why you need to ignore the "just load to 130pf and you'll be fine" crowd... is my Ramshot Compeition loads. I've posted the data in this forum if anyone wants to look, and every attempt results in SD's around 22-23. This has caused me to use that powder for practice ammo. If I were loading it at 133pf and three of my slowest rounds went over the chrono at a match? With "worst case scenario" weather plus a match chrono that reads slow, there's a good chance I wouldn't make PF. WST and other powders will give that exact same 135gr bullet a SD less than 10, which much much less velocity variation. Loading to 133 with it means much more cushion because now my slowest rounds clock above 130PF with an honest chrono.

For an opposing viewpoint, Ben Stoeger suggested we take a sharpie and coat the top of the FO to dim it. His reasoning was that you want the FO on paper 12yd and in, but on 20yd 8" plates you want to quickly be able to switch your focus to the corners of the post and an overwhelmingly bright dot is very hard to ignore.

Where are you stuck? I notice this fall was your first update in roughly two years.

It was even published in front sight. Two standard deviations (in FPS) over the minimum. So the more consistent your ammo's velocity is, the closer you can load to the minimum without failing chrono. 133-135 is my preference. Gun cycles a bit more vigorously, steel is more likely to go over, it's a bit more accurate in many cases with heavy bullets, and I just like the way it feels. You can't feel the difference between 128 and 133 with the same bullet/powder combo when a timer is ticking away.

A fast powder results in nearly all of the gas being used / expanded by the time the bullet exits the barrel. Heavy bullets, fast powders, and light recoil springs shoot more softly and result in less muzzle flip. All three are the opposite of what you would think to use to minimize recoil, but it's tried and proven a thousand times over.

See my previous reply. Im not theorizing here - I've used that demo with success with newer shooters before, to show them what "driving" the gun means.

Not to the public, since it's not for sale on their site... In the hands of beta testers only right now.

I know the feeling. I bought 6k extra bullets and 15k worth of primers. I'm keeping mine, though!

Well, like most of us I'd bought a squib rod while ordering a few things from either Brownells or Shooters Connection a few years back. So I use a brass rod, not a dowel.

It sounds like the OP is asking for a drill to encourage her to learn to actively drive the gun back down with her forearms & wrists, because she is riding the recoil rather than opposing it. And everyone is suggesting equipment changes or discussing theory. Have her smack the underside of the muzzle of your gun to demonstrate what locked wrists and tight forearms can down without having to "crush grip" the gun with strength she doesn't possess. Then do the same with hers and experiment with a dry gun on different ways to minimize how high & long the gun recoils/flips.

You'll find there's pretty much no difference in velocity between a 147 loaded to 1.150" and 1.110" over 2.8-3.0 Titegroup. Been there, done that. The issue you'll run into is that some brass will bulge on one side halfway down if you attempt to shove a long 147 really far back into it - you'll have more case gauge failures unless you're running something like a Lee Factory Crimp die to push that wall back in. Try 1.125 or 1.130" and see if you still have the issue. That's a pretty happy medium.

It's amazing how I keep seeing people reluctant to go back to stock there, even though all of our Tanfoglio-whisperers are unanimous on doing so. Glad to see you listened and that they were definitely right!

This. It was one of the first things I did to my Stock III.

What Sarge said. Think of crimp as "flare removal" for the case mouth and nothing more. You are not crimping the bullet into place in a 9mm cartridge, and trying to do so is a recipe for inaccurate rounds or feeding issues. Get the case walls straight again and get them to gauge 100%, and go no further. What holds the bullet in place is case mouth tension - the brass was undersized in the first die, and then forced to stretch around a bullet as it was seated. That tension is your clamping force. The surest way to tighten it up would be an EGW "U" die which (under)sizes a bit smaller... But that shouldn't prove necessary. If you can't push your bullets back into the cases as suggested above, load some and test fire.

It doesn't matter. Pick a bullet weight your gun shoots the best groups with, and shoot it until you're used to it. Matches are won with 124 or 147s, back and forth, all the time. 124 guys say the 147 feels sluggish. 147 guys say the 124 feels slightly snappier and they like the marshmallow recoil. I shoot 135s... because I can. They feel fine and my guns like them.