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MemphisMechanic

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Everything posted by MemphisMechanic

  1. MemphisMechanic
    For that reason I'd shave down bolo #2 like you set an overtravel screw, which consists of tightening it until the gun won't fire then backing it off not until the gun barely functions... but one full turn instead. Reliablity comes from not having a gun on the razor's edge in any way. Let's say .012" comes off of your bolo before you scrap it. In that case I'd probably take about .009" off the next one, because things expand or contract and parts are going to wear.
  2. MemphisMechanic
    Definitely keep us posted on your review of MRO vs DPP optics. Those are the two I'm considering for my own PCC build without having handled either.
  3. MemphisMechanic
    You were already over 75% reliability with CCI. If switching to Winchester primers didn't fix it, pretty much everyone in this thread who has helped you would have been shocked. CCI primers are more than "just a little" harder than Winchester.
  4. MemphisMechanic
    You guys should find some type of link that describes what his "level one" class actually covers. I don't see it on that site.
  5. MemphisMechanic
    On-person video is nearly worthless for analyzing your movement or footwork or really even... much of nsything related to shooting the gun itself. Its just more entertaining for your friends. If you want to get better, put your phone into a small tripod with grippy legs and mount it to one of the walls, or better yet have a friend film you from the the side and behind with a phone.
  6. MemphisMechanic
    It's only in there as in... you can see how much mine is rounded when I flip the slide over. I don't go into great detail on it.
  7. MemphisMechanic
    It does yes. The only reason I like a Bullet like a pointy FMJ or the Blues is because I also feed that ammo to two guns that like longer ammo. 1.125-1.130" is a happy medium that shoots pretty well in everything I load for, with coated 124s. If you're only loading for your one short-chambered gun then it really doesn't matter.
  8. MemphisMechanic
    Dont forget that it could simply be less dense. You might need more of it for that reason, as opposed to it being an equal-density slower powder. Only way to really find out will be to shoot some and see how it recoils, or find a burn rate chart from Alliant.
  9. MemphisMechanic
    Yeah the new RN 124gr Acme isn't short barrel friendly. Needed 1.090"ish to feed in an M&P. I'll be ordering blue bullets instead, which get me between 1.125" and 1.135" in the same barrel. I forget the exact OAL without consulting my notes.
  10. MemphisMechanic
    It lit off two full matches worth of CCI **magnum** primers with a 15.5lb PD hammer spring and no light strikes in DA, so far. The hammer comes back perhaps 1/8" farther than it used to, in DA. My bolo was rubbing on the frame quite severely.
  11. MemphisMechanic
    I hope it does. That would be awesome if the predominant gun in the sport were suddenly illegal. Maybe their shooters would ditch the vests and come have some fun on the dark side. I shot IDPA exclusively for 7 years. I don't have any desire to go back. Although I'm sure Robert Ray will publish a "nah that one's good" if pressed. His writings are about that formal.
  12. MemphisMechanic
    Going until you scrap one, then leaving a few thousandths more is the only way to know for sure that you're gone as far as possible. I achieved the reliability I wanted with .006" shaved off the nose, so that's where I stopped. (I took off .003" and shot a full match with it without a single hiccup, then removed another 3 thousandths because I felt adventurous. Returned to the range, it worked, so I've left it alone.)
  13. MemphisMechanic
    Sounds right. And yes with a Titan hammer and 1pc sear the bolo is a drop-in part in most cases. If fitting is needed, it's very minor.
  14. MemphisMechanic
    I love the radians do it yourself custom molded plugs. Under $15 on Amazon and they don't need f*#ked with, they just stay.
  15. MemphisMechanic
    Fundamentals is a great place for M's to realize what they need to work on if they want to be a competitive M, or make GM. We want to rush into running and gunning, but his fundamentals class will reveal weaknesses in a veteran shooter's game they didn't know they had. As a beginner you should take Fundamentals. As a veteran B through M, you should take Fundamentals. And add skills & drills if you the extra have time and money.
  16. MemphisMechanic
    You are wearing both plugs and muffs, right?
  17. MemphisMechanic
    Sounds like you might have just fixed your issue if you were only at 1/100 failing in DA strikes, to me. But yes the EGD Medium is the big bertha of the Tanfo world.
  18. MemphisMechanic
    @PrimaryBruce is worth a look!
  19. MemphisMechanic
    I keep my guns clicked in tight enough I can run without it shifting even slightly, much less think about falling out. They retain with a positive click. The draw isn't any slower on a timer either way. I tested it. The RHT body give you a cleaner release and draw with this tension than my blade ltech did when set really really loose. The bladetech bound up like a mother.
  20. MemphisMechanic
    IDPA isn't USPSA. As @waktasz said early on, factory features and aftermarket changes are treated identically there. If the feature isn't listed as okay, then any gun bearing it isn't legal. Persoanlly I'd find set screws threaded to fit those holes and locktite them down in there flush. Make it truly ridiculous for anyone to say anything about frame lightening. It'd look pretty cool too.
  21. MemphisMechanic
    TheRingOfImpossiblity. Until I get a 1050. Then it's on like Donkey Kong. In the meantime, my personal gun took four months to get there but it's able to run 100% on CCI Magnum primers loaded in a Dillon 650 with a 15.5 PD spring and everything polished/fitted perfectly. An honest 6.0/2.9 lb trigger and the ability to eat factory ammo all day long is all I was ever after. If trigger feel is less important to you than a gun that lights CCIs, installing an EGD Medium spring will cause your gun to hit so much harder than you can hear it in hammer-strike when dryfired. The trigger will stack at the back of the pull and be 3/4 pound heavier than a PD 15.5 but still quite shootable. That spring makes it pretty easy to set up a gun to run Tula and CCI primers 100%.
  22. MemphisMechanic
    What @OPENB said. https://cajungunworks.com/product/30600-floating-trigger-pin/ That one. Pushes right into and out of a Tanfo frame with a punch and a tap or two from your palm - no more hammering. It will induce a little bit of side to side play in the trigger and a pinch of front to rear wiggle. Nothing you'll ever notice while shooting, but it drives some perfectionists nuts playing with a dry gun at home.
  23. MemphisMechanic
    It's time to play every highschool kid's favorite game. "Just the tip"
  24. MemphisMechanic
    Definitely return to the rate factory spring. I'm currently running one with 2 coils cut off, without issue. If you have any sort of issues in DA with these guns, make sure you return to full-length factory plunger spring before grinding on any internal parts. Or better yet, keep one in there to begin with.
  25. MemphisMechanic
    Nailed it. That's exactly right. As @johnbu stated, open the jaws of your digital calipers up. See that tail that sticks out the far end of the ruler? That's for measuring the depth of a hole. Use it to see how deeply primers are seated. Get used to operating your press so that Winchester primers are .005"+ below flush. I find it really helps consistency to have your bench screwed into the wall studs so there's absolutely zero shifting when you cycle the handle. CCI primers are physically taller, so they won't be recessed as far into the case when fully seated. Just so you know.
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