Kyle O

Why not? It has the standard threads for a .308. All it takes is a heat gun and a wrench. Right on I am adding some JP rifles to my "to buy list". I didn't realize that the comp is just threaded on like normal, figured that they made their own barrels with the comp machined as part of the barrel. You know what they say about assumption.... You would be hard pressed to find the line where the barrel stops, and the comp starts, it is well blended!

My first thought is, right shellplate? Are the brass buttons in? Is the tool head strait? If it is a mfg error, then Dillon will make it right. Reason to go with blue in the first place. Could you post a photo/video?

I just really look for the front sight, and focus on it alone when shifting focus. to me it just feels right. I've used three dot sights, and it just seemed like it took more of my attention away from front sight focus. Others have what works for them, and some are much faster than I, it seems it is a very personal thing. But, do go adjustable.

Personally, I have shot tritium, fiber optic front/rear, black combat, orange paint on front combat, etc, etc... Now, all my competition handguns get Dawson black adj rear, and dawson slim front with green fiber. Everything looks the same then. Plus, it is a quality product, not that others aren't, but I just had good luck with Dawson, and stuck with'em. Good luck, and welcome to the forum! It's a great place to get your questions answered. Edit to add: The adjustable rear is paramount for competition whichever sights you go with, you might end up changing your loads due to availabilty of components (if reloading), or finding a better ammo, you will probably have a point of impact shift, and would need to adjust accordingly.

JP fire control group is pretty awesome.

Your also comparing buying in bulk from a distributor vs buying locally. I'm not scoffing at the cost of good powder. What I find funny is people will try to save money with the molys but then buy more expensive powder because of the smoke. Wasn't aiming that at you steel, I had just recently went thru this decision making process, and thought I'd share. I get what you mean though, save a penny here, and spend 2 there. We're shooters, we are not meant to make economical choices

Yeah, most people scoff at paying $3,000 for a gun of any kind, but we do it without blinking an eye. I figure if your gonna have the best, you'll have to pay for the best. Goes for the powder too. I've been shooting titegroup for years out of my glock under 125's, but just got some n320 to see what all the rave was about. I pay $19 retail for 1# titegroup, and can get n320 for $27 lb (8# shipped in bulk, with hazmat). It doesn't seem that much more expensive. For pistol, a pound last a pretty good while. I'll give it a try.

I only wish I could shoot daily. I just got done building a private range here at home, just in time for the time change Its dark after work now....sigh.....

Or, Precision Alloy Launcher.

Amen.

Breechface erosion, brass is worn out.

Sorry, I didn't even say welcome aboard! Just now realized it was your first post, DOH!

It'd be a useful skill were there ever a bullet drought. I'm a tinkerer, that would be as far as I would take it. I'll keep rolling my own, but not growing them too.

Great job, I like it! I have a gun room also. I keep safe, cleaning stuff, belts, loaded ammo in it, but opted for all relaoding/case prep to be done in my shop. Trying to distance my small children from as much lead as possible.

I used to crimp, but took it out while experimenting. My accuracy improved with no problems in reliability.

I sat down with a lamp shining in there, and a shotshell on the lifter, and just watched as I slowly cylced the bolt back and forth, with the shell riding up the lifter into the chamber, I took notice of where the shell was actually touching, and cut there. If you look down at the top of the lifter (where the shell would ride) there is a little "divit" for lack of a better word, where the lifter starts to get thinner as you progress toward the end. That is the last place on the FLOOR of the lifter that the shell touched while cycling. Seems that the reason it starts to get thin there is the lifter would be "in the way" if it stayed thick all the way out. The shell does contact the side of the lifter (there is a little lip there on the right side), so no removal there. I went: 1- angle grinder 2- dremel cutoff wheel 3- 220 grit paper 4- 400 grit paper 5- 600 grit paper 6- 1000 grit paper 7- 1500 grit paper 8- 6 inch buffer/polisher with green compound This slicked it right up, and I am happy. I just can't wait until my thumb gets back to normal!

22.8gr H322, under a 55gr Hornaday HPBT, seated just up to the canelure. Makes 2,850 fps out of my 18 inch.

+1 for calling JP, I somehow got a bad extractor, and he figured it out by a photo I sent him via e-mail, and called me. All this took place in 10 MINUTES! Shipped out an entire new bolt to me immediatly. That is good customer service right there. I second the JP case guage also.

But were they dirty...your pants that is.

Just take the die apart and clean with a rag or chamber mop then look inside of it with a light of some sort, if there is damage to it you should be able to see it. I doubt it though. The brass will not damage the die, the die metal is much harder, but there may be a foreign object stuck inside of the die that is harder than the brass which is scratching it. Think sand grain or something. I get scratches on mine sometimes, but I don't get too worried. On the side....as a new reloader, it's generally inadvisable to do 1,000 of anything until you get your procedures/habits/loads well developed. Do small batches. Ask me how I know! Welcome to the forum

I decided to "re-mod". (Re-mod = removed enough of my lifter gate so that it will NEVER bite my thumb again!) I had already removed the points off of the lifter, and I've been using it for about 2 years without any problems, but I recently lost a lot of weight (guess my thumb did too) so the other night it got in there and had a plug taken out. I decided to go for broke, and really do some removal. Still seems to function, so I'm good. Had it been rendered inoperable I would have just ordered a new one, and had it welded up. I've included the injured member in the photograph. My hands are usually clean, that is band-aid residue you see there.

Looks cool, I just got a JP extended, and like it. Of course I was upgrading from a 6 inch carbine plastic guard

Put her on a different squad with people you like. Let them be the "coach" and not you. At least for the first match.

Just found out the same company that I get my drugs from, is one of the largest distributers of sporting goods in the country. A personal courier delivers our drug orders daily, and all I got to do is have them add whatever "sporting good" I need to the order! Wholesale at that! YEAH! Insert Snoopy Dance Emotiocon here.

Since I'm new to the USPSA/IDP world, what makes a good match? Simple, good folks, good food, and good prizes! Honestly, there has only been 1 match that I didn't care for sofar, and it had to do with stages sharing bays, felt a little unsafe even though it was ran appropriatly.