Break Free CLP?

[bkeeler]

You may want to try this Paslode Degreaser p/n 219086 kind of expensive I use it to clean my 550. Never tried it on my gun but it is plastic safe I work on pneumatic nail guns and use it at work all the time plus I get it cheaper than Home Depot sells it.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores...mp;ddkey=Search

BK

Edited September 13, 2009 by bkeeler

[Stony Lane]

I like Break-Free and use it for cleaning all my pistols, rifles and shotguns. I usually clean after every use (or 2) so nothing builds up. I then lube the high wear areas with Wilson's Ultima-Lube. The Break-Free generally protects all surfaces and the Ultima-Lube handles the wear areas.

[Macca]

used to use CLP as it was what we had when I worked for a firearms distributor repairing all manner of guns.

When my 'borrowed' supply ran out I bought a bottle of militec-1 and I still have half the bottle years later.

Biggest problem I ever had with CLP was it was it was too liquid and everything seemed to stick to it. On a hot summers day my auto used to dry out real fast....that doesnt happen with Militec-1

[GuyMontag]

Anybody use WeaponShield?

It's a CLP, but much better than Break Free. I use Hoppes #9 for my barrel and WeaponShield for everything else. That stuff is amazing.

http://www.weaponshield.com

[twodownzero]

Nothing provides better protection from corrosion than CLP in my experience. It's mediocre for other tasks, however.

[RufDog]

CLP stinks so bad I dont know how they ever conned anyone into buying it.

[Team Amish 1]

got a quick question on this. I use CLP for a .22 conversion upper, for a pistol.

it's used as lube only.

how does CLP compare to, e.g. Rem Oil w/Teflon or or other good oil?

which lube is lighter?

I am asking because I have considered switching but the conversion manufacturer sends their kit with CLP, so I took that as a recommendation.

[jkatz44]

got a quick question on this. I use CLP for a .22 conversion upper, for a pistol.

it's used as lube only.

how does CLP compare to, e.g. Rem Oil w/Teflon or or other good oil?

which lube is lighter?

I am asking because I have considered switching but the conversion manufacturer sends their kit with CLP, so I took that as a recommendation.

I use slide glide. When I feel the gun is dirty, should I scrub the gun with a brush in Hoppes before putting new slide glide on?

[Pro2AInPA]

I only use CLP to clean the locking lug recess and bolt carrier group on my AR rifles. I don't use it at all on pistols. YMMV.

[JimmyZip]

Well my little bottle of lube ran dry this month. I have gone to using gun scrubber to clean along with tooth brushes and plastic dental picks. I still use Hoppes on the bore, but I am using Mobil 1 as my lube now. Same bottle, and it seems the exaact same color and cosistency as what was in there before. CLP is something I use before I flush with gun scrubber. It stays on the brush and suspends alot of grime and carbon after I brush. Then a squirt, and the thing is clean.

JZ

[Shadowrider]

I use amsoil full synthetic or Mobile One, been using it for years, tried it on a machine gun bolt, it didnt burn off in 10 seconds like remoil, CLP, Tetra, etc., actually lasted several hundred rounds and if you have ever done any of your own friction tests, syn motor oils are hard to beat and a quart of motor oil costs the same as a 2 oz bottle of gun oil. I also use a lightweight amsoil grease for slide rails and bolts, looks and works like slideglide at a fraction of the price. Slide glide is really good stuff, just pricey in comparison. Amsoil grease is the same color and smells the same as SG, but SG is stringier (sp).

amsoil Motoroil will stay wet for a month or two in concealed and open carry and not attract much dust either.

I use the Amsoil Racing grease on my M1A, the wear tests on that stuff are obscenely good. I use CLP in good quantity on my AR. I'll give the motor oil a try. For cleaning I use Hoppes #9, CLP or for really heavy stuff Kroil, it just depends on how dirty the gun is and whether I've been shooting jacketed or lead.

Edit to add: For long term storage I use Eezox. Seems good for corrosion so far.

Edited December 30, 2009 by Shadowrider

[photog]

got a quick question on this. I use CLP for a .22 conversion upper, for a pistol.

it's used as lube only.

how does CLP compare to, e.g. Rem Oil w/Teflon or or other good oil?

which lube is lighter?

I am asking because I have considered switching but the conversion manufacturer sends their kit with CLP, so I took that as a recommendation.

Try Boeshields T-9 for the .22. Its a dry film lube that won't slow down the bolt much in a light 22. (made by Boeing for aircraft industry) I've had issues with 22s getting dirty and stopping, T-9 helps lots with this because it dries and doesn't get gunky like a wet lube.

CLP, I'm not a fan of it. I''ll use a CLEANER, like No9, or simple green or White Lightning parts cleaner (awesome stuff) or brake cleaner. Then I'll use T-9 or other dry film lube or some light gun oil if I feel like the dry stuff isn't working well enough.

[lucasb67]

Does anyone have any experience with Break Free CLP? I am considering picking up a bunch of the pre-soaked wipes to use for general cleaning of my 2011...

I recently picked up an American Gunsmithing Institute video - 1911 armorer's course - and the instructor (Bob Dunlap) recommended Break Free CLP above all others. In terms of lubricating the critical moving parts, I've already settled on my own blend of products (Mobil 1 synthetic mixed with some Lucas transmission lube), but for cleaning, my current process is disassembling the gun and using Cabela's gun oil-soaked wipes to wipe clean all the parts. But after hearing Bob Dunlap sing the praises of Break Free CLP, I was thinking of trying some of those pre-soaked wipes instead.

mineral spirits and a rag, a toothbrush and an air gun

or skip the air gun.

IIRC, Dunlap partly likes Break Free CLP (Cleaner/Lubricant/Protectant) because of its lubricant qualities. You already have that covered. As far as a cleaning agent, I never really found it better than other agents designed specifically for cleaning. Even good old Hoppe's #9 seem to do as good a job. And for protecting the metal surfaces, frequent cleaning followed by application of any good oil will do the job until the next time.

It's pretty good as an all in one product, and I still use it since I have a lot, but it's mainly a moving parts lube for me at this point.

splng edt

+1

I use break free clp only to lubricate becouse it is a synthetic lubricant with addition of teflon ... it really works very well, it soffers only heat so I add a little part of cooper grease with it ... my standard/limited gun from an italian custom gunsmith has 30k rounds and still tightning

for me the best product for competition gun, better the other my solution, synthetic oil for high performance gear with cooper grease

[robin303]

I used CLP through out the Army and use it to this day and nothing else.

[HotIce]

I use Kroil. It is not as good as CLP as far as rust prevention, but IMO cleans a lot better, and it is thinner WRT CLP, less "oily/gunky" feeling.

People says it evaporates quickly, but I still find it in firearms that have been cleaned months ago.

[EkuJustice]

Use Mobile 1 or slip 2000 here for lubrication. For cleaning break cleaner or #9. I never was a fan of the all in one do all products. I like a specific product for a specific task

[Jman]

I stole the idea of mixing Break Free CLP with odorless mineral spirits from "Quib" on Weapon Evolution. ~60 mils of CLP to a quart of mineral spirits. Started out just

using it as something to soak my AR's BCG in. Worked so well I use it as a general gun cleaner now. I like it...a lot.

Jim