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load for my 625


colbyjack

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Every gun's a little different. I use 4.2 grains of Clays with 230s. My 625 doesn't need quite that much but Sam's old 25-2 won't safely make major with anything less. (By safely, I want at least 170 p.f. to accommodate variation in chronos, chrono technique, and chrono conditions.)

Sounds like a good excuse to bye Sam a new gun!! :cheers:

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Every gun's a little different. I use 4.2 grains of Clays with 230s. My 625 doesn't need quite that much but Sam's old 25-2 won't safely make major with anything less. (By safely, I want at least 170 p.f. to accommodate variation in chronos, chrono technique, and chrono conditions.)

Sounds like a good excuse to bye Sam a new gun!! :cheers:

Sam's a Limited shooter now, but I'm sure Carmoney won't have any problems coming up with excuses to buy new guns.

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  • 1 year later...

Hello: I am reviving an old one here. I want to start loading up some rounds to try in my 625-6 5". I have some Clays, Tite Group and N320. The bullets I want to try are 200 grain Precisions and some Zero 230 JHP. I plan on using Federal primers and a OAL of 1.230". My question is what powder and bullet choice are most of you guys using? Anyone use Moly bullets for big matches? I appreciate any info you guys can give :cheers: Thanks, Eric

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Hello: I am reviving an old one here. I want to start loading up some rounds to try in my 625-6 5". I have some Clays, Tite Group and N320. The bullets I want to try are 200 grain Precisions and some Zero 230 JHP. I plan on using Federal primers and a OAL of 1.230". My question is what powder and bullet choice are most of you guys using? Anyone use Moly bullets for big matches? I appreciate any info you guys can give :cheers: Thanks, Eric

For majors, I use the precision 230 RN over 4.0 Clays @ 1.240. Gives me a 170 pf. For local matches, I use Missouri 230 LRN over 4.0 Clays @1.240.

Only thing I do between major and local is change the bullet.

This is out of my 5" 625-4

Edited by 71Commander
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Hello: I appreciate the info. I am now sorting my brass. I have some RP, Federal, Winchester and some CCI. Which brass works the best with Ranch moonclips? Looks like I need to get some 230 grain moly's now. I guess I will wait till I get the 625 first and try the loads out :roflol:

Thanks, Eric

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Hell, I've been using the same pile of mixed brass for many years. Some of it is undoubtedly from that first batch of factory ammo I bought back in 1987 for the old 25-2. When the brass splits 1/4" or more, I pitch it. With Ranch moonclips (which is exactly what I use for .45 ACP) the brand of brass won't really matter.

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Hello: I ended up sorting this brass since it was given to me and it came from a indoor range. There was some small primer brass in there and some other crap stuff as well. I sorted it out and that is what I ended up with. Amazing enough I have only found one piece of 45 brass that was split in that lot. Mike I will go with your advice and just shoot it all :cheers: Thanks, Eric

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I've been shooting 200gr Precisions over 4.2gr Clays this winter.

They shoot fine but cut it close to 165PF. Definitely worthwhile chronoing them prior to a match.

A few weeks ago I switched from 200gr to 230gr Precisions and it gives me a little more of a PF buffer at 4.1 gr powder. Still soft shooting.

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I've never measured the increase in length but it's noticeable.

Guessing 0.050"

I'm shooting Berry's 200g and 180g round nose. Clays in the 4g range.

I've tried using a U die form Lee. It's an undersized resizing die. No different.

I'm using TZZ 89 and TZZ 89 Match brass (military and stiffer that normal)

A friend also has the same situation with Remington nickel brass and different bullets.

I've given up on trying to fix it. I sweat the corno stages.

And any rounds that are not shot are put in the practice pile.

As an aside. I have a 1911 45ACP built as a bulls-eye pistol. The gunsmith used range brass (junk!!) and it shoots 1/2" group at 25 yards.

45 ACP is amazing.

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Well, my 230 gr. plated jump from an COAL of 1.240" to about 1.260" on that 6th. round. Even so, they never drop below 168 in the chrono test. At 1.240" they chrono 171-172.

Guess I may use the bayou bullet more. It acts like lead when reloading, but performs like FMJ's out of my 625.

Jess Christensen

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It doesn't make major, it does put holes in the target and yes, it does feel great. Not as great as 3.2 grains of 231 but it is much cleaner than 231 at those loads.

We run outlaw matches where pf doesn't matter and if it has a cylinder it is in revolver class, whether it has ten rounds or 5 and no matter how many comps or dots you put on it.

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Most quality bullets, both lead, plated and FMJ shoots pretty accurate in all my K and L frames. However when it comes to my 625's, which have different types of rifling, the ones with non sharp lands don't seem to like lead bullets very much. They lead up the bore a way too fast, and accuracy goes bad real fast. This rifling looks almost a little like polygonal type and has rounded edges on the lands. Seems to me, that the bullets don't get the right grip in the rifling, and skits through most of the bore.

Does anyone have this same experience with 625's.

Jess Christensen

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Toolguy,

No they come that way with this type of rifling. Looks more like polygonal than cut lands and grooves. Just never seen any S&W lead up so fast and so bad.

Jess Christensen

Jess,

I just picked up a new 625 yesterday and it is the same way, the sides of the lands look like they are about 45 degrees with no defined angles.

I was trying to decide wether or not to use lead sice I had cleaning it out of a revo, looks like I may go straight to jacketed or plated.

Edited by GSWEAR
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Toolguy,

No they come that way with this type of rifling. Looks more like polygonal than cut lands and grooves. Just never seen any S&W lead up so fast and so bad.

Jess Christensen

My 625-8 has this new style rifling too. And yes it does lead a bit, but it shoots fairly well and it's not bad to clean. But that's nothing compared to the buildup on the forcing cone. :angry2:

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