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Building an AR: how doable?


ChrisMcCracken

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I'm thinking of building an AR by buying parts as I save. When I finally reach critical mass and have everything I need, do I need to fork it all over to a gunsmith? What are the critical steps to getting a flawlessly functioning competition gun? Would I be better off buying a stock competition gun fully ready to go and changing things I want customized?

-Chris

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Building an AR from components is just like building a 1911 from components. Cheap and sloppy shit goes together easy and will probably run just fine. Really good parts with tight tolerances need to be done by someone with a good knowledge of what makes a gun run. A touch here and a tad there makes the difference between a really nice gun and .. just another gun.

Again...JMO.

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100% parts assembly. There are plenty of resources on the web (www.ar15.com has complete build instructions) and several books.

Just make sure you gather the correct tools for the job. I started with a kit build. Put in a few pins and springs and snap everything together. The next build was building the upper and everything else too. It's easy.

Critical steps:

Wear eye protection when installing the take down detents :)

If you build the upper, do not over torque the barrel nut. The proper torque needs to be reached, but it is best to tighten, loosen, tighten, repeat until the barrel nut scallops line up with the gas tube hole.

Make sure you get your hammer and trigger springs correctly installed, along with the disconnector spring (big side in the trigger) and safety check the trigger system.

tape up the lower when installing the bolt catch roll pin so you don't scratch everything up

when installing the trigger guard do not break off the thin aluminum tabs. If you buy a MAGPUL MIAD trigger kit with the built in trigger guard you won't even need to hammer in the pin, it is built in.

Getting things running:

There should be no problems getting things running if you buy good parts and the proper bolt carrier/bolt and buffer for your firearm. Different barrel lengths and stocks will dictate what buffer you'll need to run (in general) I only have built defensive AR's, so different rules may apply depending on the parts you choose. For short barrels and adjustable carbine stocks, I use an AR15 or M16 carrier and an H buffer, on 16" barrels and longer, I've used a normal carbine or rifle buffer. Ultralight/heavy carriers will require different buffers and/or buffer springs. Buy a good carrier that is properly staked and it won't leak gas and get inconsistent. Those same carriers should have a good bolt with a properly sprung extractor.

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I'm thinking of building an AR by buying parts as I save. When I finally reach critical mass and have everything I need, do I need to fork it all over to a gunsmith? What are the critical steps to getting a flawlessly functioning competition gun? Would I be better off buying a stock competition gun fully ready to go and changing things I want customized?

-Chris

Define flawlessly functioning competition gun.

Top of the line competition guns are not just pieces thrown together. Are you looking for the AR 15 equivalent of a Bedell shorty? Call Benny or JP.

Want a nice AR 15 with the knowledge that you can tear it down and put it back together, buy a lower and a complete kit. If the upper is fully assembled (like the kits you can get from J&T or Delton), you are looking at possibly and hour of labor and a few hand tools assembling the lower receiver.

The kit AR correctly assembled should be just as accurate as one you could get off the shelf at any of the gun stores that might (that's a big might) have in stock.

If you are in a hurry, you are out of luck. Along with the prices of lowers going through the roof, delivery on most of the kits is at best 2 to 4 months out.

For a lot more information (including step by step directions with pretty pictures) go the AR15.com.

Bill

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I just finished my first AR 15. If you go to www.ar15.com and download the instructions "how to build an ar15" you will get a good idea what it takes to put together an ar and what not to do while putting it together. As far as cost if you can find a rifle already built the way you want it, it may be cheaper to just buy. The next option is to build the lower and purchase an upper for it. This is what I did. On this option no special tools are needed and you can get the rifle the way you want it.

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It's about $30 for a combo tool and $40 for an upper claw. If you don't have the 2 roll pin punches for the lower(trigger guard and bolt catch) you'll need those too.

I made a (few) plastic plates with threaded brass inserts and shoulder screws to hold the lower tight while installing the pins. They took a little cnc time but worth it.

The lower block(holds the lower by the mag well) that you can buy is not near as tight but will still work.

If you buy a complete "competition" gun you should be able to get the way you want it from JP or others.

Nick

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Its very much like building a chevy v8, there is a lot you can do yourself and some that is best left to people with know how and proper tools.

With a little bit of know how and tools, you can do a good job by yourself, for a very good job have someone that knows do the difficult parts, or your can simply have someone else do the whole thing for you and pay for it.

trapr

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YEAH???? So what you are telling me is that if I degree in the barrel I will get 10% more power and if I go with a roller top end I will get 15% more?? Do I need the Hi-out put oil pump if I stay below 6000 rpm? Will headers really kill my mid range accuracy unless I go with a smaller diameter free float tube?? :roflol: KurtM

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With the right tools, patience and aptitude it's certainly doable. Love to build a truck gun someday. But my first AR is being built and tested by the best shop in my area. I want to shoot. Not fiddle with a gun.

Jim

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It depends on if you want power from idle or from 1000rpm's. And if you want to work on the fuel system yourself, or pay a "technician" to come out in the boonies and fix it when it craps out on you.

so i went with a carb!!! its a lot like horses, something you should know about. you can pay mucho dinero and still not be happy with the hay burner, or you could go a buy a auction horse and wind up in the hospital??????? :roflol:

Trapr

Really sorry about hijackin this thread, but Kurt started it!!!!!!!!!!

Edited by bigbrowndog
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I have built a few with no problems have the right tools there is lots of info on the net it helps to know someone or have a lathe for barrel prodjects they are fun to build and rewarding to shoot. I also have built so AKs that are not to bad with the propper tooling. ;)

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I've been dabbling in this a little lately. The things the average guy can't do at home that can really make a difference are squaring the upper receiver face so the barrel torques down square, and fitting of the barrel to the extension and the extension to the upper. Other than those things it is more or less a lego affair IMO given that quality parts are used.

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Funny you say "lego".... When folks ask me about AR's I tend to describe them as "adult lego's".

Yes, you can do it at home. I certainly do. I must farm out my machine work, of course, but assembly can definatley be done by the average person with competency.

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Here is something I have wondered about. I cannot (legally) buy a gun without going through an FFL, so I've got to assume that there have to be some part(s) that are needed to build a gun that fall into the same category.

But there isn't anything I can think of offhand that I would need to build a Glock that isn't available as an aftermarket part. Surely I'm overlooking something here.

But as you can see from my avatar, I've got a few things to learn about building a gun.

Edited by Graham Smith
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Here is something I have wondered about. I cannot (legally) buy a gun without going through an FFL, so I've got to assume that there have to be some part(s) that are needed to build a gun that fall into the same category.

But there isn't anything I can think of offhand that I would need to build a Glock that isn't available as an aftermarket part. Surely I'm overlooking something here.

But as you can see from my avatar, I've got a few things to learn about building a gun.

Only the part with the serial number has to go through a dealer.

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I've been dabbling in this a little lately. The things the average guy can't do at home that can really make a difference are squaring the upper receiver face so the barrel torques down square

Beg to differ on this one ;)http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&...=4&t=412304 - however, it appears this step can generally be avoided by purchasing a quality billet upper...

, and fitting of the barrel to the extension and the extension to the upper.

Barrel to extension is definitely best left to a pro, based on the procedures I've read. Extension to upper probably is, as well, if I'm guessing correctly at what needs to be done.

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Most built ar's will function properly. I was told by a tech at the shop that built my upper that the biggest problem with most less than flawless functioning AR's is the upper reciever gets warped during barrel installation. This happens with over torqueing of the barrel nut and not having a very good reciever block. The biggest mistake on a first build is breaking the ears off of the lower while installing the roll pins. Use the vise-grip method to keep this from happening.

If you can install the detent and spring for the hinge pin you can build the rest without any fears at all.

The lower receiver is the only part of the gun that is tracked and must by sold by a FFL dealer.

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Just out of curiosity I have spun a few barrels with indicators on them that had the extension 'factory' installed, and I wasn't impressed at all. I do think the next one I build I will start with a blank barrel and do it all myself.....

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