Chris Martin

My 1k also came with the YHM mount but the 3 prog "tuning fork" mounts that came with the 2k and 762sd don't have anything stamped on them. AAC's Phantom flash hiders were stamped YHM because they licensed the phantom flash hider from YHM. As part of that agreement, they put the YHM logo on the phantom even if they were made in house, which most of them were. AAC no longer produces the phantom design because it has been surpassed by the Blackout, so they no longer have to pay for the Phantom design license. The Blackout is a better design to reduce flash and it is tougher. To the OP, I would recommend the SWR Trident or Evo 9. The Trident is more quiet, but I haven't shot the latest Evo yet. I run my Evo on all my 9mm's including my STI 2011, Glock 17 and my 9mm AR15 SBR. I typically use the piston thread mount, but I use the 3 lug adapter for my AR. If you have the money, the new AAC Ti-Rant 9mm would be sweet. http://www.silencerresearch.com will be releasing its yearly 9mm review. I don't like the Gemtech multimount or Tundra because they clearly used the Evo as the template (The AAC pistons and adapters even work in the Gemtech's.), I won't reward them with my money for borrowing someone else's design, though it should perform like the Evo.

Keep in mind, you can always plug in an external monitor and use it as a "desktop" You can even do this for a while until that model gets old and you can pick up a replacement or replacement screen cheaper. If it were mine, I'd set it up as a small home server for all my iTunes music and movies to share around the house (I have Mac Mini's attached to my TV's) use it as a backup server, attach some external hard drives to it, etc.

Reminds me of "Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels" Boy did they pick the wrong shotguns.

100% parts assembly. There are plenty of resources on the web (www.ar15.com has complete build instructions) and several books. Just make sure you gather the correct tools for the job. I started with a kit build. Put in a few pins and springs and snap everything together. The next build was building the upper and everything else too. It's easy. Critical steps: Wear eye protection when installing the take down detents If you build the upper, do not over torque the barrel nut. The proper torque needs to be reached, but it is best to tighten, loosen, tighten, repeat until the barrel nut scallops line up with the gas tube hole. Make sure you get your hammer and trigger springs correctly installed, along with the disconnector spring (big side in the trigger) and safety check the trigger system. tape up the lower when installing the bolt catch roll pin so you don't scratch everything up when installing the trigger guard do not break off the thin aluminum tabs. If you buy a MAGPUL MIAD trigger kit with the built in trigger guard you won't even need to hammer in the pin, it is built in. Getting things running: There should be no problems getting things running if you buy good parts and the proper bolt carrier/bolt and buffer for your firearm. Different barrel lengths and stocks will dictate what buffer you'll need to run (in general) I only have built defensive AR's, so different rules may apply depending on the parts you choose. For short barrels and adjustable carbine stocks, I use an AR15 or M16 carrier and an H buffer, on 16" barrels and longer, I've used a normal carbine or rifle buffer. Ultralight/heavy carriers will require different buffers and/or buffer springs. Buy a good carrier that is properly staked and it won't leak gas and get inconsistent. Those same carriers should have a good bolt with a properly sprung extractor.

The pin match that I shoot has different categories with different rules. It makes it enjoyable and you can compete with everything or just what you have. Major = .40 and larger, 5 pins 1 foot from the front of the table Minor = less than .40, 8 pins 1 foot from the back of the table Revolver = any revolver, 5 pins 1 foot from the back of the table Carbine = straight-walled cartridges (.45ACP, .30 carbine, .40, etc) rifles, 5 pins 1 foot from front of table Sub = any rimfire, 5 pin tops cut from the used pins 1 foot from the front of the table, small target, but they fly off the table, lots of fun. Here is my current minor pin gun (9mm) that I built (sub 5 second gun with 8 pins): For Major, I shoot a 1911 in .45, Revolver is a 686, sub is whatever I feel like (Marvel 1911 .22, Sig Trailside, Buckmark, whatever) Carbine is a 9mm AR15 that just doesn't knock the pins too much, .40 and .45 work MUCH better, but that's what I have. As others have mentioned, the heavier flatter bullets work better than pointy fast ones. Just for fun, here is a video of me shooting minor with my sig P229 (click the pic): Yeah, I know, I missed twice

I would do this: TROS thread adaptor 1/2-36 2B to 1/2-28 2A With Thread protector: $60.00 TROS makes good stuff, I run their 9mm barrel in my AR.

I would recommend never to buy anything electronic, especially cameras, from random, cheap store fronts in NYC. B&H is safe obviously, anyone else and it's probably grey market, non-warranteed crap. I have the XTi (the model before the XSi) and it has been great. If you see a kit with the "standard" kit lens and a zoom lens, I'd not worry with it. The zoom lens is OK, but there are better ones out there. It would be better to take the difference in the kit cost and put it towards a better zoom lens. My next purchases for the XTi will be a good macro lens and a good zoom.

The MagPul PMAGs are great, but they are made in CO, not OH. PMAGs also have the same color follower as the mag (so, black mag, black follower) They are very good, very tough mags. Remember, all "plastics" are not the same. Magpul has worked very hard to get the polymer they use to be as tough, strong and everything resistant as possible. They have videos of their mag being run over by trucks, shot through by 5.56mm and all still functioning (seriously, 3-4 bullet holes, mag spring sticking out the side, put back in an M16 and fired full auto) PMAG Vs. Chevy: PMAG shot and function: PMAG, GI, HK Vs. HUMV: [ur] [/url] (impressive)You can get them from $14-$20 depending on model and even less from Brownells if you have the FFL/Dealer discount. Right now, order the Black, no window model. Due to demand of the Obama Effect, that model is the one they are making the most of right now. Now, if they aren't MagPul, I would pass. I've heard good things from Lancer (The L5 magazine) but have no experience.

Good point, I'm currently loading out to 1.135 (using a truncated cone bullet, even longer with round nose 147gr) I do load long for this type of load.

I run 3.8gr W231 for my 147gr 9mm loads, no signs of over pressure. I run my 9mm suppressed and it's a great, quiet, subsonic load.

I used to drink a lot of coffee. My roommate worked for a very good coffee shop ( http://www.greenberrys.com/ ) She used to get all the mistake orders and mis-grinds and such. It was incredible. $12.99/lb+ coffee for free. We drank it a lot. Once she moved out, I lost my connection for free good coffee and didn't want to pay for it, so I stopped cold turkey I would recommend them highly. They roast their owen beans locally and will ship them out to you. I like: Sulawesi (indonesia) Sumatra (indonesia) Mocha Java (blends) Mocha Java was my favorite. Different regions coffee beans have different flavors and different levels of acidity. You will want to try different kinds. I personally would not bother with "Jamaican Blue Mountain" unless you are buying it in Jamaica. More Blue Mountain is sold in the US per year than is harvested in the entire country and they only export a small amount to the entire world. There is too much of a chance you will buy a blend and not the real thing. The keep to good coffee, IMHO, is get it ground correctly for the filter type you are using and use a spoonful off grounds per 4oz of coffee (I use one heaping typical maxwell house tablespoon type scoop per line on the coffee carafe) this will give the coffee a full body, but not bitter. It's better to use too much coffee than too little. I've always though that starbucks roasts their coffee too much, it always taste burnt to me.

Take a hard look at the AAC M4-2000. It's QD, only .25oz heavier that the surefires, full inconel inside (baffels and inner core, outer core is steel, both the inconel and the stainless are of higher grade than the surefire cans, that said I doubt any of us could wear out the SF, much less the M42K's), fully welded, cheaper, minimal POI and quieter too. wrt POI shift, it has a lot to do with the barrels too. If you hang any dead weight at the end of a barrel it can shift POI, change the barrel harmonics, etc. The BEST silencer for that is the SPR/M4 because it has 5 adjustable start points so you can tune the can to your barrel and get it just right. All that does me no good though, since I got mine, I NEVER shoot without it

The surefire stuff is top notch, but I am of the opinion that there are better values out there (AAC M4-1000, M4-2000 (AKA 416-SD), SPR/M4) www.silencertalk.com www.silencerresearch.com Silencer Research just posted a 5.56 silencer shoot out. It's $30 for the premium reviews, but $30 could save you more if you were to get one that wasn't good enough for you. FWIW, the AAC SPR/M4 is more quiet. I have the M4-1000, which was only $600 and it's been great. From AAC's testing (Indoor, not mil-spec, but still representative of the sound differences between the models): http://www.aacblog.com/?p=482 ETA: Pictures and Videos: Anyway, here is a short video of a 10/22 + Pilot, STI 2011 + Evo 9 and my AR + M4-1000... (Click the pictures for the videos, The first one is the largest at 13MB or so) A few shots from my M4-1000, where the case hits the camera: Also, My suppressed STI I built:

Typically, to get a bolt carrier unstuck: While pulling down on the charging handle, smack the butt-stock down on a hard surface all at the same time. Use the energy from the hard strike on the but-stock to help you pull the charging handle. This will not be a gentle process. Now, if the charging handle is messed up or the bolt is broken and locked up in the barrel extension, might not work. That is what I would do though.

http://www.firstshotcounts.com/products/products.html NO experience with them, but they do list price. The 190-03 in the barrel design for holster draw system us spendy.

I can only tell you what happen. If you read above, Pharaoh Bender posted the same problem (his went auto, my friends just on reset). A pin block spring installed sideways. This was my friends Glock 19 that I shot and discovered the sideways pin block spring.

Stuck or incorrectly installed firing pin block. If the spring is jammed up or the block itself is stuck by the extractor pin, it will cause the firing pin to hit the primer upon trigger reset. The trigger bar will push forward on the striker during reset as it passes under it. Normally the firing pin block will be in the down position and stop the forward motion of the striker.

You will need to google instructions on taking your laptop apart to put in the new HD. MOST PC type laptops are pretty easy, some even just have a door on the bottom, near the RAM, that comes off and you pop the old HD out, pop the new one in. Others are more difficult and will require some time, a few TORX screw drivers and some instructions. If you can unscrew a screw and follow instructions, it'll be easy. Just keep each of the screws organized so you know where they go back in and you'll be fine. Remember to unplug the thing and pull off the battery. As for software, most of the PC techs I know use Norton GHOST. It will image an old disk and copy it over bit-by-bit and you'll have a perfect copy. I would get the USB HD enclosure mentioned in my post above. You put the new HD in the enclosure, boot the PC off the Norton GHOST disk, copy from the internal drive to the USB drive, then swap out the HD's. Once you have verified everything boots up OK, just put the old drive in the enclosure and use it as a backup drive. That said, there are free alternatives to GHOST, you just have to google for them. Personally, I'd probably just boot off a LINUX install disk and use diskdump or something, but I'm a UNIX geek. GHOST would be the easiest and fastest way, but it'll cost you a few $'s. ETA: All THAT said, also consider just installing from scratch. It's not a bad idea to start from scratch sometimes. It'll clean out all the crap that windows programs like to leave behind, it'll optimize everything and it'll probably speed things up too.

If you are happy with the speed and are fine with the hard drive swap (including ghosting over the old HD to the new one) I say go for it. I just swapped my mom's Mac Mini HD (Laptop HD inside a desktop computer) upgrading her from 40GB to 120GB for $65 from newegg. I also added a USB hard drive case for less than $5. So I was able to stick the old HD into a case and she can use it as a backup drive if needed. Hard to beat less than $70 for 3x the space.

I bought the Brazos pre-tuned 9mm ejector. It's great and I highly recommend it. You will have to notch the front leg for the pin, but other than that, it's a drop in part and it's already adjusted to kick the brass out correctly. I dropped it in my 9mm 2011 build (with a C-More) and the brass flies out nice and flat and doesn't hit the mount at all.

Yes, I have just verified this will work for you. When you plug in your ipod, sync everything you want the first time. Then go to the iPod settings (Just click your ipod in itunes) and on the first page of settings there is a "Manually Manage Music" check box. Once that is check, you will need to drag and drop all the songs (inside itunes, not windows) to copy them over. That turns off the sync process and will not force a delete of songs remove from itunes.

This isn't an iPod problem really, it's an iTunes problem. The issue is that you want to add a bunch of music to itunes, sync it to the ipod, then remove the songs from itunes to add in more. The removal of the songs will cause the auto-sync process to also remove the songs from the ipod. You should be able to work around this if you turn off the auto-sync and manually manage the songs on the ipod. I can probably test that out here in my office if you give me a little bit. If that doesn't work, I would recommend getting an external hard drive and storing all the music on that instead of using the internal drive, OR, just buying a new laptop hard drive and ghosting everything over it that using an external USB hard drive interface. You can then use the old 80GB drive as a backup drive for your other stuff. For me, I would just buy a bigger internal HD, and in fact, I have done that with several laptops in the past when I have run out of space.

Sweet .22's... Here are a few of mine... 10/22 w/ boyds stock. Not exactly tacticool in the blue, but a sweet shooter none-the-less... Mueller APV scope as well... Incredible glass for the price! TacSol 10/22 threaded barrel: Buckmark + Tacsol barrel: Dedicated Marvel .22 1911:

Limcat 360 Deg. Reverse Plug... I got mine from shootersconnection.com: Haven't finished fitting it yet, I need to smooth it out on the front a bit, but it's works great for me.

Kevin Greeley of www.greeleycustom.com He's in VA btw. (I read another thread from GOTM4 on his .40)