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Buying A New Press


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OK, I've done the whole search thing. I've re-read the wonderful "what Dillon is for me" thingy over a hundred times. I've visited Dillons website to check all the specs, but I cannot decide. So I thought I'd let the masters at BE.com decide ;)

I am shooting revolver in IPSC. Caliber is .45ACP. I shoot approx. 1000 rounds a month. I currently load all my ammo on a Square Deal B. It's a nice press. Much faster than loading single stage, but reloading is still a major pain in the a** (to me at least). I don't like to reload. I want a press that is setup and just crank out a boatload in a very short time. I'm not switching caliber. It'll be a .45 only press. (I have 2 SDB's for other stuff).

I can't decide: 1050 or 650.

To me the big differences seem:

-Priming up or downstroke (I reload revolver and want my primers seated as deep as possible. I run my loaded match ammo through a Lee autoprimer)

-Swaging on the 1050 (I never shoot military brass, so I don't need it)

-Price. The 1050 is about $400 more, than a fully equipped 650.

-Warranty. The 650 comes with a better warranty.

What to buy, what to buy....

Any input is appreciated.

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Almost daily, I make recommendations based on your exact requirements.

To me - 1000 rds/month = 650.

I don't recommend going to the 650 or 1050, from a SqDeal or 550, unless you are shooting 2000 rds/month for the 650 and 4000 rds/month for a 1050. So if you're not loading at least 2 - 3000 rds/month, I wouldn't consider changing.

I pasted in both new orders, at be.com prices, for a 650 and a 1050:

QTY Part # Description List (ea.)

1 16926 650 in 45 ACP 399.95

1 21079 Sm Pistol Casefeed Assem. 155.95

1 22052 Strong Mount 650 only 28.45

1 17950 550/650 Roller Handle, aluminum 32.25

1 22214 SqDeal/550/650 Bullet Tray 28.45

1 14404 45 ACP die set 46.95

Product Net 692.00

Shipping 19.99

Customer Total 711.99

1050

QTY Part # Description List (ea.)

1 21061 1050 in 45 ACP 1259.95

Product Net 1259.95

Shipping 19.99

Customer Total 1279.94

Difference = 567.95

The only real (slight) drawback of the 650 is seating the primer on the upstroke. And when you figure the "clunkierness" of the new Super 1050 compared to the "smootherness" of the old 1050... I don't know, the 650 sounds pretty good to me.

be

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Brian clearly knows more about the assorment than I do. I have a 1050 and wouldn't give it up for anything - but I've had mine for years!

I would *think* if money is no issue than the 1050 is the choice - othewise the 650 seems like a good deal.

I hate loading too - its a necessary evil!!!

JB

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Wow! Great input guys.

L2S & Chriss: Unfortunately, I'm living in Europe, so the whole hassle P2P sale with someone that far away seems a little tricky to me, but thanks for the tips :) And L2S, that loading a year's supply in two days sounds like heaven B)

So, lots of votes for the 1050. It's what I expected. But when I see Brians prices, the 650 seems like a darned good deal, especially when I read Brian's roundcount/press recommendations.

Erik, 1000 rnds. might be SDB territory, but I am positive I could save about half the time on a 650 or a 1050. I load pretty fast on the SDB. I put through about 500 rnds. an hour (smooth run), but my arm is dead after that.

I figured the 650 could do about 1000 an hour and is probably a ot smoother to operate.

Brian: The whole idea is that I buy a faster press so I can load more ammo. I notice I hate reloading so much, it kind of decides how much I shoot ;). I was hoping to shoot about 2000 rnds. a month with my new press, so I guess after reading your story a 650 will be enough . I would really like to order my stuff from you (in a couple of weeks I'll order), to support the Benosverse, but I read in your shop section that you don't ship overseas anymore :( Do you recommend ordering straight from Dillon?

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Spook,

I went from the SDB to a 650 (with casefeeder).

With the SDB, I only had 4 primer tubes. So, I never loaded more than 400 rounds in one session. But, that was about my limit for one session on the SDB anyway.

With the 650 (and more tubes), I'll do 1,000 round reloading sessions.

With my Glock's, I use lightened striker springs. So I am concerned with light primer hits as much as the revolver shooters (with lightened triggers) are. My 650 seats my Federal primers fully...well below flush. I have never had a light strike with one of my reloads...and I don't expect I ever will.

For your stated needs, the 650 sounds like the ticket (if you must ungrade at all).

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I've been researching the whole 1050 thing too ---- in my case because I HATE reloading and the time it sucks out of my life. I'm shooting between 1200-2000 rounds a month, depending largely on how much practice time I can fit in. I'm sitting on 6000 rounds of practice ammo or so at the moment, but have run out of match quality ammo again. I'm considering upgrading to a 1050 simply so that I can load 1000 rounds in less time.

Here's the question: Is the old RL1050 preferable to the new Super 1050?

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As to Dillon's warranty on a 1050: From reading Dillon's webpage itbecomes apparent that they offer a lifetime warranty on the 1050 for any defect in manufacturing. They will not cover normal wear and tear after the first year, since they expect that these machines will be mainly used by commercial reloaders and others who make money with them. So it seems to me, that the potential buyer has to make a choice: Buy state of the art and figure you'll have to buy some parts every few years, or buy a lesser press and count on a level of factory support which continues to amaze me. I just ordered my third 650 parts kit ---- simply because I find it more convenient to have spares on hand....

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mine would never get through 100 primers without a malfunction. besides the 650's warranty is much much better, infact for the life of the machine. the 1050 comes with a one year warranty. i could not load any faster on a 1050 than a 650. if you use the military swag it's twice as hard to pull the handle. i believe the only benifit would be swagging military brass.

buy the 650 with all the bells and whistles and you'll be more than happy.

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Nik Habicht wrote:

Here's the question: Is the old RL1050 preferable to the new Super 1050?

Benos wrote:

The only real (slight) drawback of the 650 is seating the primer on the upstroke. And when you figure the "clunkierness" of the new Super 1050 compared to the "smootherness" of the old 1050... I don't know, the 650 sounds pretty good to me.

Maybe this helps a little Nik.

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Nik,

In my opinion, having loaded a zillion rounds on an old 1050, yes - the new one is a tad clunky to me. The feeback/vibe/buzz at Dillon on that issue is - That's only an issue (for customers) that HAVE LOADED on an old 1050. If the Super 1050 is your first 1050, then it's not an issue. But then now that we've spoken of it, it may very well be.

;)

A few words to clear up "the 1050 doesn't have the lifetime warranty" fear -

I spoke at length with a senior employee at Dillon regarding this issue. He said the reason they went to this policy/warranty on the 1050 was because most all 1050's are sold to commercial loaders, who not only run zillions of rounds through the machine annually, but often hire incompetent "handle pullers," who know nothing about reloading whatsoever, and consequently trash the machine daily. Therefore the limited warranty policy is not interpreted literally by the good folks at Dillon, if the machine is not purchased for professional use.

He said they "kinda keep an eye on the customer, and note if he develops a trend for breaking an usually high amount of parts." If a customer should somehow be requiring more than about $150 worth of broken parts in a year, then they may start charging you. Otherwise, if you something breaks or wears out, they send out the replacement right away just like they do for any machine.

Personally, I loaded an unimaginable number of rounds through a 1050 over a ten year period, and I can't remember breaking anything besides maybe a spring or two. My friend at Dillon said it is amazing how many shellplates the "incompetent handle pullers" break. I can't imagine how one could ever even break a shellplate...

spook,

The reason I don't sell Dillon products (at my discounted prices) internationally is:

a) There is very little margin on Dillon products to begin with, which means, at my discounted prices:

[i'm not saying/implying that the below applies to you.] ;)

B) By the time I send a zillon emails back and forth, (broken down below), typical of the average (email) overseas order, I lose money on the deal. On any order outside the U.S., I have to charge the customer the actual cost for shipping, which is what Dillon will charge you if you order from them.

The average overseas customer wants to know, before they order:

Exactly what the total cost, including shipping, will be -

and, what would the various shipping charges be if shipped UPS, FedEx, USPS, or some other carrier that I've never heard of and no one uses.

"Exactly when can I expect to receive the order?"

"Exactly how long will it take before it ships?"

You're starting to get the picture....

Even if they don't need to know exactly all the above, before I can quote shipping I will need the exact order. Then I'll call the only guy at Dillon who can quote and take international consumer orders; he'll give me the price, then I'll email the customer with the shipping charge. (Who then typically wants to change the order, and start the whole process over again.)

[/i'm not saying/implying that the below applies to you.]

There, I've said it.

Nevertheless, having said that, I'd be happy to order it for you - I'm not afraid. ;)

Actually, I'll order Dillon products for any active international forum member. Typically, it's the "found me by searching" international customer that's the nightmare.

The easiest way is to copy/send the part numbers/descriptions/shipping/billing address(es) to me in an email. I'll plug them into my sheet, call for the shipping quote, and then send you the shipping cost and my secret method for sending your cc # in an email. It could be that simple.

;)

And spook, a slight addition to increase confusion - if price is not an object at all, and sheer volume is all you are concerned with, and, you never plan to change calibers, the 1050 is the shit.

be

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Nik:

I spoke with a Dillon rep before I bought my 1050 regarding the Super 1050 vs. the old 1050. The Dillon rep advised buying a Super 1050 only if you wish to reload a large rifle case, like 30-06. The main reason the 1050 was redesigned was to make the stroke longer to accomodate the large rifle rounds. As a result, the Super 1050 is more tiring and clunky to load on. Since I don't reload any large rifle cartridges in volume, I decided to look around for a used 1050 instead of a new Super 1050. Being patient, I managed to find one for sale that was hardly used. I see them for sale quite frequently now...

HTH,

SAB

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He said the reason they went to this policy/warranty on the 1050 was because most all 1050's are sold to commercial loaders, who not only run zillions of rounds through the machine annually, but often hire incompetent "handle pullers," who know nothing about reloading whatsoever, and consequently trash the machine daily.

So the only thing stopping a double/squib charge from some of the commercial reloaders is the powder check die since their workers weren't the brightest kids on the block?

Think I'll stick to my reloads or factory ammo.

Josh

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