CSEMARTIN Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 What happened that resulted in the death of the Kart? I removed too much metal from the hood. BE SURE what is causing it to be tight before you move metal. I couldn't agree more. At this point, I don't know why it is tight. I do know that I can see a faint shimmer of light shine through the barrel hood when I hold everything up to the light. And the dial calipers are telling me that the hood and sides are within a thou. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 (edited) What happened that resulted in the death of the Kart? I removed too much metal from the hood. BE SURE what is causing it to be tight before you move metal. I couldn't agree more. At this point, I don't know why it is tight. I do know that I can see a faint shimmer of light shine through the barrel hood when I hold everything up to the light. And the dial calipers are telling me that the hood and sides are within a thou. I'll give you $2.00 for the Kart........ If the hood is the only thing that's out of whack, that is. Edited January 7, 2009 by Dan Sierpina Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I'll do $3.00. The width of the hood or the length? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 EGW will revive that Kart for very little money..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 EGW will revive that Kart for very little money..... Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 I'll do $3.00.The width of the hood or the length? The width is fine. The length is a problem. I've got to get at least 3.50 for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I'll go $12.44, you pick up shipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 I'll go $12.44, you pick up shipping. Too rich for my blood, Howard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted January 7, 2009 Author Share Posted January 7, 2009 I'll go $12.44, you pick up shipping. It sure is nice to know that I have friends here that will help me through hard times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Sierpina Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 I'll go $12.44, you pick up shipping. It sure is nice to know that I have friends here that will help me through hard times. Chris, glad we can help Besides, you learn faster when making mistakes.....Okay, not faster, you just remember better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 We look sorta like rats 2, 3, 4 and 5 walking up behind the rat in the trap don't we At least I am the winning bidder so far LOL. You have to sit back and laugh a little, experience is what gain from screwing things up, and we have ALL done it. Sometimes it is tough to chuckle at first but it needs to be done before too much time passes. Glad we could help with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Knowing what NOT to do (experience) is just as important as knowing what to do. You'll be fine. Drive on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 Thanks guys. I do appreciate the help. I'm heading back down to my shop to charge onward. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GentlemanJim Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 All this will just make it sweeter when it starts to run Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 (edited) I am so happy with how this barrel fitting is going!!! So far, it is going perfectly!! It's just a beautiful thing. I have 50 thousandths of lockup and my barrel alignment gauge ( http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/Pro...IGNMENT%20GAUGE ) isn't hitting the firing pin hole on the breechface. Should I keep going? How much lockup should I go for? I was thinking 55 would be good. Edited January 8, 2009 by CSEMARTIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 50 is a LOT, you are looking for 43-45. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Dychem the breech face and lightly tap the alignment gage with a mallet. You might be slightly left or right too. 50 thou would put the firing pin strike on the primer just north of center, usually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted January 8, 2009 Author Share Posted January 8, 2009 Dychem the breech face and lightly tap the alignment gage with a mallet. I did that. The wear pattern is very even. If 50 is good, I guess it's time to cut the bottom lugs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 8, 2009 Share Posted January 8, 2009 Make sure when the barrel goes to bed you have enough clearance between the upper lugs and the slide. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 The dychem will show where the barrel alignment gage (the rod) is hitting the breechface, instead of going in the FP hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted January 9, 2009 Author Share Posted January 9, 2009 (edited) Make sure when the barrel goes to bed you have enough clearance between the upper lugs and the slide. Thanks Howard. I'll check that. How do I know when I am done cutting the bottom barrel lug? I measured both holes and the meat between, and I came up with exactly .278 inches. I put in a #3 link pin, installed the barrel and everything cycles really well. But I noticed the slide isn't flush with the frame when the barrel is in battery. And I've lost about 8 thousandths of lock up. I put some Dykem red on the back of the bottom lug to see where the barrel is hitting the frame. I just need to tear the gun apart and check. Edit: I just uploaded another video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHlKb10kNwc Edited January 9, 2009 by CSEMARTIN Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
want2race Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 (edited) Slide hang-over is normal. I've had MUCH more than what you have in your pic. Once the barrel is fit, I file the back of the slide and contour it to match the frame. I've seen the aftermath of a barrel fitting where the lugs where cut until the slide was flush. The barrel cammed WAY down in full lockup. It never did feed right. Well, that is until the fitter hogged the hell out of the chamber mouth. Bulged cases where the result, until the lug feet broke. That's when I got it. I've read HSMITH post that the link is at 1 degree past vertical, when fully in battery. Well, this is what it is supposed to be. The down and dirty is: The disconnector is fully in the notch, and the safety engages the cutout in the slide. Make sure when the barrel goes to bed you have enough clearance between the upper lugs and the slide. Thanks Howard. I'll check that. How do I know when I am done cutting the bottom barrel lug? I measured both holes and the meat between, and I came up with exactly .278 inches. I put in a #3 link pin, installed the barrel and everything cycles really well. But I noticed the slide isn't flush with the frame when the barrel is in battery. And I've lost about 8 thousandths of lock up. I put some Dykem red on the back of the bottom lug to see where the barrel is hitting the frame. I just need to tear the gun apart and check. Edit: I just uploaded another video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHlKb10kNwc Edited January 9, 2009 by want2race Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SLM Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 I just read through all 7 pages here... looks like it's gonna be a fine blaster! I've always wanted to do something like build a gun but machine tools are no longer at my disposal so I stick to building ultra-high end desktop computers for friends. It's almost as much fun, maybe more because I get to spend stupid amounts of OTHER peoples money and not my own, lol! Oh, and on that note I just have to outbid Howard for that barrel... $13.87 and I'll kick in $2.00 to cover shipping for $15.87! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HSMITH Posted January 9, 2009 Share Posted January 9, 2009 I like 1* past vertical, and then fix the disconnector notch and safety notch if necessary. 17 and a half thou per inch is pretty close to one degree, and it isn't that hard to measure. I just can't do anything else when I know what it is supposed to be. Damn, outbid again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CSEMARTIN Posted January 9, 2009 Author Share Posted January 9, 2009 I just have to outbid Howard for that barrel... $13.87 and I'll kick in $2.00 to cover shipping for $15.87! I just wouldn't feel right about it unless you let me cover the cost of having the barrel sent to EGW to have it fixed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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