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My First 1911 Build


CSEMARTIN

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I made it to shop class tonight to do some work on the slide. I decided to do something a little unique with the flat topping. I hope the pics turned out ok. I ran out of time so I'll have to do the dovetails on wed.

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Chris,

Now you see why someone's comp looked bent. The top of the slide is at a 1 degree angle from parallel to the rails. Now, are you going to serrate the top? You'll have to stagger the serrations to work with the taper, which would be quite different and interesting. A surface grinder will make the smoothing of the top much faster, and less likely to round the edges off.

Nice work on the gun. Keep it up.

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That was my comp that looked bent. The bent look was due to the amount of lockup on the barrel (being too much), not the way I cut the slide. ...I'm going to fix this problem shortly.

BTW, Dan is correct with respect to the bottom of the rails not being parallel to the top of the slide. ...I found this out on another project. When you flat top you need to square up the slide using the top (before you cut it).

Darren

Chris,

Now you see why someone's comp looked bent. The top of the slide is at a 1 degree angle from parallel to the rails. Now, are you going to serrate the top? You'll have to stagger the serrations to work with the taper, which would be quite different and interesting. A surface grinder will make the smoothing of the top much faster, and less likely to round the edges off.

Nice work on the gun. Keep it up.

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I'm not sure what I'm going to do at this point.

At first I was pretty pissed, then thought it looked kind of cool. Now, I'm having second thoughts.

CS,

Drive on Bro! I'm an aspiring machinist myself so I know how you feel. But I have to say, when I saw that I said "Damm, why didn't I think of that!" It's pretty elegant if you ask me. Like some of the other folks, I like my gear to look at little off the beaten path and that looks good!

--KJ

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CS,

If you don't mind the flat area going past the side of the ejection port, you could stick the slide back in the vice and mill the front to match the width of the back. By trial and error, just lift the front a little each time while taking small cuts. I'd try to find a picture of another slide that has been flat-topped that much and see if you like the look.

Darren

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If you want it flat indicate it in with 17.4 thousandths taper per inch from back to front, that is equivalent to the difference in the bottom of the slide and the top with no cuts. There is still plenty of meat there to flatten it if you want to.

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Hello: You should have indicated the slide and made it level before you cut it. I guess you know that now. You can still level it out by using the indicator. Machining the slide is partly an artform. I use a fly cutter when I cut the slide. There is a saying my dad used to say "highly polished and deeply scratched". Don't take that the wrong way. If you don't like it the way it is you can always change it. Just like the diamond cutters, you have to screw up some parts before you get the gem. Thanks, Eric

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That looks to be less than 1* to me, and might be a cool effect when it is done. I don't like my gear to look like the rest of the gear out there. I say go with it!!

Looks less than 1 degree to me too, about 90% of everything run on my mills the table is on a 1 degree wedge, but I'm used to looking at 1 degree over 10 foot length of part, LOL not 6 inches length.

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those slides just don't look like 1 degree to me, maybe its just the small size......here is a photo of a part I was milling last night where the OD has a 1.04 degree taper to it. Might just be I'm used to seeing parts on a larger scale :)

screw.jpg

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Sasquatch,

The trigger is a Gold Cup series EGW trigger. It's heavy though, and it will require a lot of work to get it competition ready.

Joe4d,

Thanks for the offer. That was very generous. I bought a staker tool, but I'm sure I don't have everything yet. What else do you have laying around??

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Funny to read about Swensons. I've had similar experience with them.

If you bought the Gold Cup version of the EGW trigger you may be in for an unpleasant suprise if you have a standard Caspian frame. Have you tried to slide it into the frame yet? The Gold Cups have a MUCH wider trigger than standard.

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