My First 1911 Build

[Aristotle]

Tagging

[CSEMARTIN]

want2race,

I deliberately went with the Gold Cup trigger because I wanted it to big for the frame. I don't like sloppy loose triggers so I'll fit this one to my liking.

After a lot of thinking, I decided to tackle the flat top again. I decided I wasn't happy with how it turned out. So with the advice of Matt and others, I paralleled the slide by indicating the slide just off to the side of my previous cut. It really took some doing to get it right on, but I think it came out ok- all things considered.

I ended up taking off 40 thousandths to get it reasonably close. The dovetail is 75 thousandths deep and the dovetail cutter nearly went through the slide. You can see a dimple in the middle of the dovetail and you can feel it push through from inside the slide. I have an idea how I'm going to fix it, but I am open to suggestions.

After I finished the flat top, I finished the front dovetail and first cut for the Bomar. I had to call it quits for the night.

I normally would not have taken the flat top that deep, but I think it looks pretty bad a$$ now!!

[Matt Cheely]

Looks pretty good Chris!

[GentlemanJim]

Things are lookin up

This is neat to watch...thanks

Jim

[mr1911]

I built a simple combat fullsize a few years ago for single stack, I used a stock Essex slide with wilson trigger group, safeties and springs, the frame and stainless barrel were bought on sale from AR-15 supplier DoubleStar.

It's not the prettiest gun, but it's still the most accurate, well balanced 1911 I've ever shot.

[mr1911]

P.S. forgot why I originaly went to post here,....I too tried some Swensen parts...long story short, hated them, junked them and went with wilson.

I'm a proffesional machinist, and had originaly looked at unfinished parts to machine to my own specs, but like the mechanic who doesn't like to work on his own car, I decide to go with finished parts and forget about custom machining, I did however tighten the slide/frame fit and machine/tig weld a few small parts beyond the standard hand fitting required, but my project was mostly a K.I.S.S. job.

Funny thing, I litteraly had enough parts left over from swapping out what I didn't like to biuld a spare backup gun, which actualy came in handy more than once, LOL.

CSE;

Heres a newbie tip.......

Don't EVER use a milling bit in a drill chuck, EVER....use a dedicated mill bit holder or collet, drill chucks are not designed for side loads and your milled surfaces will seriously suffer from it. I speak from experience here.

Best wishes with your project.

Edited April 3, 2008 by mr1911

[Matt Cheely]

Don't EVER use a milling bit in a drill chuck, EVER....use a dedicated mill bit holder or collet, drill chucks are not designed for side loads and your milled surfaces will seriously suffer from it.

Yea, what's up with that? I thought that you were talking a class?

[CSEMARTIN]

Don't EVER use a milling bit in a drill chuck, EVER....use a dedicated mill bit holder or collet, drill chucks are not designed for side loads and your milled surfaces will seriously suffer from it.

Yea, what's up with that? I thought that you were talking a class?

I think I was sick or asleep the day they taught that! Seriously, for a split second before I put the end mill in the chuck, I thought it might not be a good idea. Then I rationalized that since I was only taking small passes it would be ok.

I promise I won't do it anymore! That's what I get for posting pictures- caught in the act....

Thanks for sharing the pics mr1911. I've had a backup gun bail me out twice at major matches. I never leave home without it.

[CSEMARTIN]

The dovetail cut ended up a little deeper than planned. Luckily, I discovered the "rescue" sight.

[Rik]

The dovetail cut ended up a little deeper than planned. Luckily, I discovered the "rescue" sight.

You are not making mistakes, you're getting experience.

Best, Rik

[robomanusa]

dedicated mill bit holder

never heard that before, thats like tellin the new guy to go get you a 3/8 drill and he brings you back a big box that has makita on it..LOL

Dont forget to tell him while he is at it run this balbot back to heat treat and tell them you need it heat treated

Edited April 3, 2008 by robomanusa

[ExtremeShot]

Did you tri-top it? ...The picture I saw looked like you did.

....maybe it's just the lighting.

Edited April 3, 2008 by ExtremeShot

[robomanusa]

The dovetail cut ended up a little deeper than planned. Luckily, I discovered the "rescue" sight.

You are not making mistakes, you're getting experience.

Best, Rik

Thats a good way to look at it, gotta start somewhere!, might add though, might be cheaper to get experience on similar sized scrap stock laying around.

[robomanusa]

Did you tri-top it? ...The picture I saw looked like you did.

....maybe it's just the lighting.

It looks good, the next one he will be able to run with no troubles and in half the time

[CSEMARTIN]

Did you tri-top it?

No, it's not tri-topped. Must be the lighting. The top is .400" wide. It's probably casting a shadow..

[CSEMARTIN]

I'm working some crazy hours next week so I won't be able to make it to the machine shop to do any work on my build.

If I have time, I'm going to do what I can at home. I did some polishing on the flats and Bomar cut.

I took some pictures of the gold cup trigger next to the frame. I didn't realize how much bigger the gold cup trigger is. I'm going to have to rethink this one. It might be a good idea to get the smaller one and go from there.

I bought a Wilson Combat magazine release. It dropped right in and is sloppy use- which is unacceptable for me. It will be headed back to Brownells very soon.

Since this is my first build, I thought it would be interesting to see just how tight the slide to frame fit is right now. I'm sure there are people like me out there that haven't seen this before. Needless to say, the slide won't even start on the frame.

Lastly, I've had it with the swensons. I think they are crap. They are for sale. I did receive a PM, and I'll give that individual until the end of the weekend to decide whether or not he wants them. Otherwise, I'm going to dump them to whoever wants them- for a reasonable price of course.

Edited April 4, 2008 by CSEMARTIN

[Dan Sierpina]

Concerning the BoMar cut. Are you going to solder the sight on? Don't waste your time on smoothing the cut for the sight. You'll have far more chance to make the cut not flat or square, which makes for a poor installation. The bottom of the slide needs to be drawfiled to get it onto the frame. Then it needs lapping. Get the aluminum oxide lapping compound from Brownell's.

[want2race]

I took some pictures of the gold cup trigger next to the frame. I didn't realize how much bigger the gold cup trigger is. I'm going to have to rethink this one. It might be a good idea to get the smaller one and go from there.

Since this is my first build, I thought it would be interesting to see just how tight the slide to frame fit is right now. I'm sure there are people like me out there that haven't seen this before. Needless to say, the slide won't even start on the frame.

That's why I asked (GC trigger). I know you're out of the shop for a while, when you get back: Chuck that trigger up in the vice. You can thin it down that way, just as you had planned. Use coolant.

Here's how wide that trigger is:

[ExtremeShot]

You did a good job squaring up that flat top.

I was going to ask you about the frame/slide fit. I just recently built my first gun also and everyone told me to do the frame/slide fit first (before doing the custom work). I used a mill (not a file) to fit my slide and frame. Only take off a thou at a time. It's very easy to get too much off and then you have a slide that rattles on the frame.

Great job.

Darren

[CSEMARTIN]

Concerning the BoMar cut. Are you going to solder the sight on? Don't waste your time on smoothing the cut for the sight. You'll have far more chance to make the cut not flat or square, which makes for a poor installation. The bottom of the slide needs to be drawfiled to get it onto the frame. Then it needs lapping. Get the aluminum oxide lapping compound from Brownell's.

I hadn't planned to solder the sight on. Is that what you guys do? What is the advantage?

I'm planning to fit the slide to frame soon. I have the lapping compounds from Brownells- Al Oxide 80 and 60 grit I believe. I'm waiting on the lapping tool. I'm also waiting on my new vise. I'm building the bench for it today.

I think I'm going to get rid of the gold cup trigger and start with something a little smaller. Thanks want2race for posting that picture.

Thanks Darren.

[CSEMARTIN]

I started building a bench tonight for my new vise and buffer.

[Dan Sierpina]

The reason I asked if you were going to solder on the sight is, there was no dovetail. I guess you ran out of time that night. I have seen BoMars soldered on. Just not often.

[CSEMARTIN]

The reason I asked if you were going to solder on the sight is, there was no dovetail. I guess you ran out of time that night.

At the time, I was still waiting on my 60 X 359 cutter. I can't get on the mill until next week. I'm going to finish the bomar a week from tonight and begin the slide cuts.

[CSEMARTIN]

I took off the rear serrations and the Caspian logo from the back of the slide.

Edited to add a bigger picture for you blind bastards.....

Edited April 17, 2008 by CSEMARTIN

[Matt Cheely]

I took off the rear serrations and the Caspian logo from the back of the slide.

wow, nice biiiiiig picture you have there.