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Open a chamber with sandpaper?


boo radley

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I'm playing around with a Lone Wolf Glock barrel. It's significantly tighter than the stock barrel, and even tighter than my Dillon case-gauge.

That strikes me as *too* tight. I shot LW a note, and got a nice reply back explaining 'Glock'd brass, and full-length resizing, etc., issues which I understand, but again -- if a round chambers easily in a case gauge, that ought to be good enough imo. I don't want to use the barrel as a gauge, for no other reason than sometimes it's a mild PITA, and now I'd have to first gauge with the barrel, then gauge the rejects ('cause they're still likely to fit the STI) with the Dillon, etc.

Anyway, long story longer: I don't have any fancy tools, but have done amazing damage with sandpaper. In all seriousness -- could I open this chamber up a bit with 600grit wrapped on a dowel, or something? Thx

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Yep, get a chamber reamer. You need the chamber to be round or the cases will expand weirdly when fired. This will make it touch in the sizing die etc. best bet is to get a gunsmith to do it. They will already have a reamer and if they muck it up, then they have to pay for a replacement.

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I really would not worry about it unless you are having a problem with it not running.

Mine is VERY tight compared to a Glock chamber and I have not had a problem with it IF IF IF I made sure I sized any brass that had been through a Glock all the way to the base.

Yes it is a mild pita to use the barrel as a gauge but not that bad.

You saw mine run at NC State, nary a hicup.

IF YOU DO recut the chamber get a reamer or have a smith do it with a reamer. You can rent a reamer or I bet a smith wouldn't charge you too much to open it up a bit.

Edited by vrmn1
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I watched Darrel Holland on an AGI video smooth out a freshly chambered rifle with some 600 grit paper wrapped around a dowel. He just ran it in and out by hand a couple times as the barrel rotated in the lathe.

I think the reamer is your best bet, your safest bet, but it might not be the only bet.

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Tighter than the Dillon gauge...on a Glock ?

(pause for me to literally...scratch my head)

For true. Some rounds that will drop freely into the Dillon gauge won't drop into the LW barrel. In order of some barrels I have (had), it's Factory G35 (eats most anything), STI, KKM G22, Dillon gauge, and now, this LW G24. I don't know why it's so freakin' tight. My sloppy G35 is amazingly accurate off bags, so go figure.

I'll try another test -- not that I have any questions -- and just see how it shoots with 100 rounds, or so, with the barrel as a gauge, then decide what to do.

Howard, thank you, btw! Very kind of you. I don't know any local smiths, and...well, I'm starting to think while the sandpaper might work, the votes are pretty stacked against. :)

Thanks all, for the solid advice.

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Boo,

 If it is the 24 barrel, I know it and I have never seen or heard of a feed / extraction issue, all of the rounds run though it were from a worn out Lee 1000. Load a standard glock length and shoot it, it like a rifle.

Banks 

Edited by spankymac
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I had to ream out my LW barrel too. They are, or can be, very tight. I really just wanted to open up the throat a bit, but in doing so found the chamber undersized (compared to my reamer).

$60 and worth it. Just don't make a 10mm. <_<

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When I got my LWD G24 barrel I fired factory ammo through it and my factory Glock barrel.

I measured the cases and there was .009 difference between the LWD and the Glock barrel.

The LWD barrel was .009 smaller just in front of the web.

I had one jam with it caused by the chamber being tight and a piece of brass that had been fired in a factory Glock barrel.

After that I started pre sizing my brass on a single stage press and a shell holder I faced off to make sure I got rid of all of the "Glock bulge". Not another problem. Is this a REAL PITA? Yes but not so much as a jam when the timer is running.

I also gauge with the barrel, another PITA but again not so much as a jam whent he timer is running.

That is the only problem I have had with mine caused by the chamber being tight, and that was due to the oversize Glock factory chamber.

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LOL, if it ran with crooked ammo off a Lee 1000 it ought to run anything!!!

I ran into problems with some case gages being bigger than the chamber in the 40's I was building, and found the EGW tightest. I made one to go with each gun, usually I can just touch the EGW gage with a reamer and it matches the chamber I cut perfectly, and that reminds me that I am one behind right now.....

Die selection might take care of it too. If you are running Glocked brass a U-die takes care of it 99.9%, the standard Lee die will take care of 98% of it if you grind the lead off where it can reach all the way down the case.....

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Tighter than the Dillon gauge...on a Glock ?

When I still had a Glock Open gun I put a KKM barrel in it and it's chamber was tighter than the Dillon case gauge I bought for it, but I never had any problems with it feeding.

Yeah....I am in line with that.

What I was questioning was the need for a tight chamber in a Glock.

Anyway...

I think I have a Lee guage that is tigher than the Dillon, fwiw.

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Die selection might take care of it too. If you are running Glocked brass a U-die takes care of it 99.9%, the standard Lee die will take care of 98% of it if you grind the lead off where it can reach all the way down the case.....

Yup, this -- and Tony's point, too -- is the real root cause of the evil. My brass is badly 'Glocked.'

I *was* using a Lee 4-die set, and the sizing die, even unmodified, took care of the bulge almost entirely. There were two problems, though -- first, I would crush cases at station 1, which slowed down reloading, and second, the press didn't operate as smoothly.

I replaced the sizing die with a Dillon, figuring I'd case-gauge match ammo anyway, and the Dillon die fixed both problems. However, it doesn't resize for sh*t, quite frankly, if you've got Glock'd brass, and 1 out of 10, or more, are failing the case gauge.

I'm going to go back to the Lee die.

But forgetting all the above, my point to LW was that if a round passes the Dillon gauge (and every other .40 barrel I have), you'd think it would pass the LW barrel, and it doesn't. I'll go ahead and use the barrel as a gauge for a hundred rounds, or so, and make sure there are no other problems -- if it groups well, I'll probably get the chamber opened a tad. OTOH, if I'm not otherwise happy with the accuracy or find the G24 feel too 'funky', I'll get another barrel or put this project aside for a bit.

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They will already have a reamer and if they muck it up, then they have to pay for a replacement.

Maybe... Depends on the smith. Most will give it back and hope you don't notice and then claim it was a preexisting issue if you do. Still better odds then sandpaper!

Edited by adweisbe
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