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taurus


jjanglin

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Jim,

I own several of the "mighty" Taurus 608 8 shot .357 revos, Taurus pioneered the 8 shot revolver in 1995 and the S&W copy was not available until late 1997. The Taurus is not factory cut for full moon clips but "The Old Gun Shop" in California cut my cylinder for $75 and sold me full moon clips made by Pan Pacific an EDM contractor. In 1996 I shot my 608 at the Open Nats against the likes of Tetsu Murado, a Japanese US visa holder who shot a Charlie Priest 'RPM' 8 shot .357 with a dot scope. Tetsu shot alot out of AZ & CA and was an accomplished revo shooter. In 1998 (withoput Jerry Miculek shooting revo) I shot my 608 in minor with .38 Colt Short ammo, now with a dot against 3 others with RPM guns shooting .38 Super in major. I won the USPSA Open Nats revo division with my 608 and wrote an article published in the USPSA Front Sight magazine titled "Winning Nationals with a $349 gun"

The Taurus actions are not as smooth as my newer S&W 627s but they werre also $1000 guns. I still have my Taurus 608s and lots of the moon clips (which will NOT work in the S&W) In fact, one of them rides in my car everyday as my personal bodyguard. The S&W is smoother but a tougher gun they are not.

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Nothing against Taurus...It's just that Smith & Wesson rules this area.

The parts for the various Smiths are usually pretty easy to come by, and they are fairly robust. I once lost a side plate screw on my wife's Taurus model 85, and it took several calls just to get the part in the mail, and then when it did come, it was the wrong part. It took over 2 months to get a sideplate screw. I just think that the parts are more common and easier to come by with Smith, and competition guns get a lot of use, parts do wear out or get bent and need to be replaced.

That being said...come out and shoot what you have, nobody will look at you out the side of his face if you have a different wheelgun on your hip, everybody is welcome.

Just my 2 cents.

DM

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Hey All:

I have no doubt about being welcome , been doing USPSA a lot of years , have worked on a few revolvers

but until recently never got the urge to shoot one, I now have two 625`s, one new, near killed me to

buy a new gun off the shelve, Ive allways built my own guns in one form or the other and have invested in

some tools for the revolvers,plan on tinkering some,love to tinker with my stuff, my only problem

right now is Im so busy in my shop that I dont have time for "ME" stuff.

I was just curiuos about the 608 .

Mike Carmony has been a big help steering me in the right direction I feel.

Ive got a box of ^%%$#@ messed up parts ive collected over the years with my tinkering, probably

will add to it some with revolver ideas.

Thanks

Jim

Sailors Custom :blink:

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I shoot an older model 608, it works well. As has been said, it is not a smith, but for 350 bucks, they can't be beat.

I also have a Taurus model 66 stainless 7 shot. It is not ported so no need to shoot in open and the trigger is VERY nice right out of the box. Better than a stock smith, but of course, not as nice as a tuned smith.

Taurus has made some improvements to the triggers in last 5-6 years, you may find yourself pleasantly suprised. You can buy a lot mooclips and get the machining done with the 500 dollars you save.

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I like Taurus as a company. Back when we were shooting pins a lot more, Taurus really tried to market itself to competition revolver shooters. They donated quite a bit of stuff to matches, and even sponsored some equipment for a few shooters. Taurus revolvers weren't bad, but they did develop a reputation for going out of time very quickly, particularly with the hot pin loads we were all shooting--like maybe in critical spots the metallurgy wasn't quite where it needed to be. I was just talking about this subject recently with one of the guys who used be sponsored by Taurus, and he said the bottom line was that it just wasn't worth the hassle of trying to keep the guns running right.

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More parts are available for the S&W and not many parts are MIM but solid forged parts. The triggers on my Performance Center 625s and 627s all had to be smithed and it is a must for Federal primers. However, my Taurus, though heavier triggers from the factory, were very smooth and I could use any primers including CCI that are known to be hard.

Tom Kelley at the S&W Performance Center has been great to work with and I have had to buy several parts for my new and older revos which S&W has available. I have never had to replace any parts in any of my Taurus guns and they do use MIM parts. S&W does support the shooting sports much better now. Afterall, they are charging more than double what a Taurus runs. Bob Morrison, now Pres of Taurus is also very supportive of the revos in USPSA/IDPA/ICORE?PPC. Remember that both S&W and Taurus were owned by Banger Punta for a number of years and this is when the Taurus revos took a huge increase in quality and they back every gun with a lifetime warranty.

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Hey All:

When I was building the LDA guns for the Air Force Team shooter Major Roger Sherman we had problems

with the trigger job holding (sear was too soft) after the angles where recut.

Id had some dealings with Cryo Ne and talked with the fellow who runs it and I started having

the guns Cryogenicly treated, it did wonders for the Para LDA.

I got to thinking about the Taurus and if the metal is not up to snuff, Id like to try and see

what I can do with it.

This fellow (Doug Almond) who owns Cryo Ne uses the same process as Nasa does and Ive had

some allmost amazing results using his services.

Im really not impressed with S&W so far, Gee the inside of these revolvers are sure rough

and a lot of machine marks in places I would think a company with S&W history would not want them .

Im having a little fun with messing with these revolvers and you guys and gals who shoot them

seem to really have a good time,Its all about fun with me. Im looking forward to the near future.

Like I said if my ideas dont work out I got a box for screwed up parts to go in :rolleyes:

Jim/PA

Sailors Custom :rolleyes::mellow:

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Hey All:

When I was building the LDA guns for the Air Force Team shooter Major Roger Sherman we had problems

with the trigger job holding (sear was too soft) after the angles where recut.

Id had some dealings with Cryo Ne and talked with the fellow who runs it and I started having

the guns Cryogenicly treated, it did wonders for the Para LDA.

I got to thinking about the Taurus and if the metal is not up to snuff, Id like to try and see

what I can do with it.

This fellow (Doug Almond) who owns Cryo Ne uses the same process as Nasa does and Ive had

some allmost amazing results using his services.

Im really not impressed with S&W so far, Gee the inside of these revolvers are sure rough

and a lot of machine marks in places I would think a company with S&W history would not want them .

Im having a little fun with messing with these revolvers and you guys and gals who shoot them

seem to really have a good time,Its all about fun with me. Im looking forward to the near future.

Like I said if my ideas dont work out I got a box for screwed up parts to go in :rolleyes:

Jim/PA

Sailors Custom :rolleyes::mellow:

Try doing a S&W SS cylinder and see if it stops the peening of the cylinder notches.

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Taurus guns such as the Raging Bull seem to be fit and finished quite well . I shot a friends 454 and was amazed at its accuracy and overall quality. Taurus, like so many other firearm companies miss the boat when they try to build something they think is marketed for the games. Miss # 1 a 5 shot 45acp revo? If it were a six shot I am sure some of us may have tried it. A 7 shot 357 with ported barrels a miss again. 44 with ported barrel , this one missed an entry level revo to shoot in IHMSA.

Last year there was a thread about an 8 shot 9mm and they were seeking advice from Randy Lee. I thought , finally they are listening to someone who knows our shooting sports. But, that was last year and NO word yet.

At one time I thought they also had some kind of connection with Jack Wiegand, and did some special run PPC guns, but I am not sure how accurate my data is.

mws

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  • 2 weeks later...

Patrick,

That's one of them (I believe). I have one of Bill's magic guns too. I had it tuned up (can't remember by whom), but there can't be that many revo 'smiths in southern California. Bob or Bill somebody.

However, anyone know who will make moonclips?

Thanks,

Rich

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Patrick,

That's one of them (I believe). I have one of Bill's magic guns too. I had it tuned up (can't remember by whom), but there can't be that many revo 'smiths in southern California. Bob or Bill somebody.

However, anyone know who will make moonclips?

Thanks,

Rich

Yes it is Bill's gun. He gave me the photo as a kind gesture for building the gun for him. Worked over a number of his revos.

He was not sure if this was THE one that he use to win the Nationals.

Patrick

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I used to have one of the 5-shot Taurus .45 Revo's. Nice little range plinker for the money. Tried using it to shoot bowling pins......... 5 shots for five pins, you have to be on.... But I should have used lock-tite to hold the gun together for those stout .45 loads :blink:

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Well I beleive its always in our sport's best interest to have more brand competition. I know that Taurus makes/made .45 ACP revolvers; but I thought the problem was their addition of porting to almost every revolver they import. Perhaps they could introduce a model along the lines of the Miculek PC 625? It would be great to see how .45s from each maker would do head to head.

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  • 5 years later...

Anyone know the way and a site where I can see the tecnique for removing the cylinder from a joke on a Taurus 627?

My friend just buy one, his first wheelgun and I can't help him.

Thanks

And yes Patrick we all speak with this accent in the U.S. :)

Edited by toothguy
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Yes, but I haven't see a video where someone remove the yoke crane from the cilynder.

It's not like S&W....after unscrew the yoke screw, the cylinder and the yoke comes out but it not pop-out, but it's one solid piece.

Patrick, I tried to find photos or a video but had no luck fo far. From what I have read it appears as though the cylinder is held in place on the yoke using a compression ring. The extractor rod is reverse threaded and is removed as well as the star and spring. The yoke is held in a vise with wood blocks and the cylinder is tapped off with a brass punch. You might try to contact Taurus for further info. That's all I could find for now I will keep looking.

Edited by toothguy
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It's incredible..the cylinder is soo "gritty", for you an easy but not final solution can be put the cylinder-yoke assembly in a ultrasonic cleaner, rise well in demineralized water, dry with compressed air and filling with some brake free oil from the hole down on the extractor?

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It's incredible..the cylinder is soo "gritty", for you an easy but not final solution can be put the cylinder-yoke assembly in a ultrasonic cleaner, rise well in demineralized water, dry with compressed air and filling with some brake free oil from the hole down on the extractor?

For stuff like that I use break cleaner to degrease and flush out hard to reach areas. It is cheaper than Gun Scrubber but does the same thing. Then I use Mobile one synthetic oil and blow out the excess with compressed air. Keep the break Cleaner away from plastic or painted surfaces.

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