fdkay

I used .38SC for 125 PF. Loaded to 9mm specs with 125 gr berrys plated bullets. I used the 38LC for major, loaded to 9x23 specs.

I like the rubber grips that come on the new Taurus revolvers. You might contact Taurus and see about ordering a set of those. I have used the new Model 66 (7 shot) and have no problems clearing the grips with HKS speedloaders. I wish Safariland would see fit to make 7 shot COMPS 2 or 3's.

Lee product number 90276. 38 Short/Long Colt

For a short while, USPSA ha a stupid rule that you had to use .357 cases, I was shooting open with a Taurus 608, so I used the shorter brass. You may want to double check the rules. In a 686, I would recommend that you try to drive a 158 at about 1100 fps. Pretty easy shooting and doesn't seem to slap the hand too much.

can anyone tell me were I can find a 38 short colt seating & roll crimp die ? wanting to try this for myself I believe Lee is making short colt dies now.

I shoot short colt for ICORE and long colt loaded to 9x23 specs for major in IPSC.

One of the advantages to Kydex is it does not retain moisture and does not allow it to pass through(sweat). Since he lives in the Philippines, this would be a concern. With high temps and high humidity and a monsoon season, it might be better for him and the gun to have a kydex holster.

I would probably go and get one made from salt water crocodile hide by a local craftsman (just to be different). Of course, carabao leather would probably be a good alternative.

Yes, the 8 shot does have a spot in uspsa. You will shoot in production. You WILL have a good time.

I think you are well set up already to start enjoying the wonderful world of revolver shooting. Normally, fixed sight guns are regostered for the 158 grain load. As far as speeloaders go, HKS will get you started, but they are not as fast as the comp 1, the comp 2 is better and the comp 3 is best. Use the holster and belt you have now, if it is legal and if money permits, you can look into getting a blade-tec or similar straight drop kydex holster. Make sure it is IDPA legal, it will be fast enough to play in IDPA, ICORE and IPSC. It won't be as fast as a race rig, but it will be much cheaper. I don't know if the Fobus holsters are still IDPA legal, they are fairly fast and only cost about 23 bucks. For IDPA you only need three speedloaders, best to have four so you have a spare (if I'm not mistaken, each stage is supposed to be no more than 18 rounds). You may want 5 or 6 for ICORE. You will probably want to start reloading, get a good, simple, robust press. You won't need a progressive press to start, a good turret press is a nice way to begin. Here is a link to mid-south shooters supply and the Lee 4 hole turret press kit. It comes with the press, a powder measure, a scale and prime pocket cleaner and some other doo-dads (you really don't need to clean primer pockets on handgun ammo). There are plenty of options besides Lee, but I do like them and their Dies are Me proof. (Get carbide dies so you don't have to lube the brass) http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item...?sku=0000690928 And this is a link to their page of links. It will give you lots of options on companies that sell reloading and firearms accessories: http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi/catalog/br...ers/online.html 38 special ammo is not as cheap as it once was and 357 is way more than what you need, when you consider a typical match in IDPA can be 90 rounds and up, and you factor in the cost of the match itself, you've spent 35 bucks. It doesn't take long for that to start eating into your wallet.

I use a roll around plastic tool box. One of those type that you get from Lowe's or Home Despot. The one I use is different than this one, but my Dad uses one like this sometimes. It is more stable when pulling it behind you than the one I use. 24 bucks from Wally world. In addition to what has been noted by our friend Walter, I carry at least one cleaning rod, some patches, a nylon bore brush and a tooth brush (not for me, for brushing under the extractor), my demooner tool and usually an extra holster. Mosquito repellant is a must have where I live, and usually some sun block and several bottles of water. I did forget my gun once. I had everything else. I took it all out and inventoried it before I left and put everything back in the box (or so I thought) the gun was sitting in the case on the floor when I got home, right next to where the box was sitting.

Thanks for all of the replies. I know Jordan had large hands, I've got a pretty good set of paws myself. My hands cover a lot of area, but are not real meaty. I wasn't really expecting a link to tiolet seats though, although a lot of my shooting seems to head that way!

Kind of a leading topic title. I have a 625 round butt with JM grips. They look VERY nice, but are uncomfortable when shooting major. I was thinking of getting a set of Jordan troopers. Any thoughts?

I like the idea of a 610, I made the mistake of buying a 625 about 4 years ago, I don't really like shooting it, and I hate paying for shipping for those heavy bullets. I talked myself out of the 610, because at the time I was shooting some IDPA and they came out with that stupid rule that you can have a 5" barrel auto but not a 5" barrel revolver. The 610 is probably the MOST versatile, easy to make minor with, just get some light bullets in the 145-155 range and puff them out there and you can easily make major with the 180's for a soft shooting IDPA legal load AND it is easily powerfull enough for handgun hunting with the 10mm loads. There are PLENTY of round nose bullets out there, you just have to look. You can always use hard cast lead bullets intended for the 38-40.

Carefull, the topic police are out looking for perpetrators that hijack posts

I have used 180 grain cast lead bullets from Hunters supply (I think) that were for the LC, diameter .452 to make minor with. Boy, they were SHORT bullets, but seemed to shoot well, at least for short range stuff. I have been shooting the 185 grain HBRN, with the apparently mistaken thought they would shoot softer than a heavier bullet. Trying to get complete combustion with those bullets can be problematic. If the pressures aren't high enough, you end up with unburned powder, to get the pressures high enough, you end up making the old major. I think next time, I'll go at least 200 grains.

How about the guys shooting 44 special in a gun marked 44 magnum? Or shooting 40 s&W in their 610? I took a quick gander at the rules, NOWHERE did it mention any thing of the sort. Of course they have their "anti-gaming" rules etc... and I do believe that they have a valid argument there. You wouldn't carry a defensive pistol loaded with short colt rounds, so you can't use it. That is the argument the should have used, not that nonsense they were spewing. It seems they blurted out the quickest thing that came to mind instead of telling you that they would research the correct answer and get back to you.

You don't specify what bullet weight you are using. If you are using the 158's that max load of solo might JUST work. You may get slightly higher velocities with plated bullets. I've managed to get some pretty good burns from my 625 when shooting major, let alone my .357's.

Don't rush it. Slow is fast. When you worry about speed BEFORE becoming proficient, you tend to make errors. After several THOUSAND repetitions, you will find that you improve. You need to analyze your movements, do two things at once and get rid of wasted movement. Sounds easy doesn't it? Take it step by step in slow motion. get everything moving right. Oh, and have your charge holes chamfered.

I shoot an older model 608, it works well. As has been said, it is not a smith, but for 350 bucks, they can't be beat. I also have a Taurus model 66 stainless 7 shot. It is not ported so no need to shoot in open and the trigger is VERY nice right out of the box. Better than a stock smith, but of course, not as nice as a tuned smith. Taurus has made some improvements to the triggers in last 5-6 years, you may find yourself pleasantly suprised. You can buy a lot mooclips and get the machining done with the 500 dollars you save.

I went the cheap route and shoot a Taurus 608, I use short colt loaded to 9mm specs for ICORE and 38 Long Colt loaded to 9x23 specs for major. My major load was a 125 grain plated bullet over 9.3 grains of WW 540. The 608 is a big, heavy, compensated gun so recoil was not a factor.

I may be wrong (but I doubt it) But I think that the slight difference in reload speeds MAY be made up in faster split times with the heavier gun. It also will depend on things like the size of your hands and the type of reload you are going to do. If you have smaller hands, you can still perform either reload style with a K frame.

I've been struggling with the same question. I really like the 185 HBRN. The biggest problem you are going to run into is incomplete combustion. As you lower the pressures, you will end up with unburned powder and that plays havoc with your revolver. Get one grain of powder under your extractor and your screwed and you will find yourself brushing chambers frequently to clean out the soot. I was trying Universal Clays, I like the powder because it is flexible and clean, but by the time I got complete combustion I was getting near major PF. The powder works great when I make 125+ PF in short colt or major loads in long colt, but the pressures are so low in the acp case that it makes a mess. Try a faster powder, someone on another thread recommended Clays. I believe their charge was 4.2 grains. You could also try about 5 grains of HP38. My Father really likes American Select. Please keep us informed of any good load data you come up with for these bullets.

Jeff, It comes down to what you are willing to spend. I have a CR speed holster, I think it cost upwards of 190 bucks. You can use it in ICORE and IPSC, but NOT IPDA. It is strictly a competition rig. It is VERY fast. You can get a BladeTech holster that can be used for all three, probably about 80 dollars, I have one of those also. It works very well. If cost is an issue, you can get a Bianchi accumold cruiser holster. be careful of your belt selection on this, I think the max is a 2 inch belt for the N frame model. It is a thumbsnap duty style holster, but is not a bad way to go to start, with practice, you will be almost as fast as the blade tech, I think you can get them for about 29 dollars. I know in IDPA, if you have a thumbsnap, you must use it. If you can find a belt slide/yaqui style, it would be a very good alternative.

They used to be available through the blue press. I do not know if they carry them anymore. My dad has a couple of them for his 686+, they were a bit pricey, but they work extremely well. Do you have something against the Safariland comp series? The Comp 1 would be better than the hks as far as reload speed goes. I occasionally shoot my 657, I have some comp 1's that my brother gave me and they work pretty well. Sadly they do not make anyting for the 58/57 anymore.