bountyhunter Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 I put the Sotelo trigger om my G35 and got pretty good results. Pull weight is now about 2.5#, and much improved. The only thing I really don't like is the creep: it still has a fairly long pull after engagement and moves in small "steps" (jerks) as opposed to a smooth, progressive slide. 1) As a test, I removed the FP safety plunger and dry fired it. No change in the feel of the pull, so that's not it. I have polished the face of the stiker foot to a mirror finish. I have also polished the face of the trigger bar tab that engages the striker foot. I have polished the edge of the trigger bar where it engages the disconnector (the so called bird's head), as well as the face of the disconnector. The tigger is pretty good, just wondering if there are special techniques that can make the pull transition less jerky. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SA Friday Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 You probably did this, buty it's worth mentioning; make sure you lube the where the disconnector and the back of the trigger bow rub against each other, and also where the little thingee (technicnal term )on the disconnector rides the bottom inside of the slide. Also, I noticed a drastic difference in how the RS felt after about 500 rounds. It took some time to settle in, but after it did, it was like glass and my trigger is 2lbs or less. Lastly, check the two forward pins that hold the slide lock release and trigger in place. Make sure everything is moving freely. If you have just a little bit of weirdness in there, you might be getting some friction during the trigger pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscott Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 Sounds like you've done about all you can do, but don't forget that it's still a Glock. I like Glocks, but they aren't 1911s. I've never played with a $200 trigger job, but it still can't be the same. Just go shoot the crap out of it and be happy that it works every time all year long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted October 14, 2006 Author Share Posted October 14, 2006 Yeah, I klnow it's still a Glock. My problem is when I have a jerky trigger, I don't shoot as well as a smooth one. With the Glock, I get a small rightward jump of the gun when the trigger breaks (I can see it on the red dot). I am trying different grips and trigger finger engagements, but I can't really get a consistent break that releases the trigger without gun movement... and the scatter fire groups reflect this. It's just a harder gun to shoot straight than most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mscott Posted October 14, 2006 Share Posted October 14, 2006 I guess part of my point was that when you get everything polished up they are still going to "wear in" a little unless you have everything perfectly flat and smooth. If you make it super nice in the basement it might break in to a point past where you wanted it to be after a thousand rounds or so and then you get to start all over again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flycaster Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 bountyhunter- My G19 has a Scherrer 3.5# connector in it. I find that I can treat it as a two-stage trigger. First, I take up the "slop" (a necessary part of the Glock inner workings) until it stops at the second stage. From there I can treat it as a pretty good single stage trigger. Not like a 1911, but still pretty darn good. If you can work the trigger reset on each shot, you're pretty much at the "single action" stage every time. Chuck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sean Gaines Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 put a pin in the trigger housing thats what I did, now the gun has no pre travel whatsoever. The trigger goes to the reset position when cocked. I also cut the trigger safety down a bit to keep the trigger safety working. I am also using a RS trigger kit. It takes some trial and error, but its well worth it and the housings aren't that expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ltc123 Posted October 15, 2006 Share Posted October 15, 2006 put a pin in the trigger housing thats what I did, now the gun has no pre travel whatsoever. The trigger goes to the reset position when cocked. I also cut the trigger safety down a bit to keep the trigger safety working. I am also using a RS trigger kit. It takes some trial and error, but its well worth it and the housings aren't that expensive. Could you post some pictures and a discription of that modificaton? I think we all would like to remove the excess forward travel of the trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 It's real easy to defeat 2 of the 3 safties in the Glock by doing that. I don't know if you did or not, but having to mod the trigger safety (illegal in Production) makes me wonder about the other two... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted October 16, 2006 Author Share Posted October 16, 2006 put a pin in the trigger housing thats what I did, now the gun has no pre travel whatsoever. The trigger goes to the reset position when cocked. I also cut the trigger safety down a bit to keep the trigger safety working. I am also using a RS trigger kit. It takes some trial and error, but its well worth it and the housings aren't that expensive. The research I did (some of the links posted here) warned aginst "pinning" the trigger. The take up doesn't bug me, it's that when I get to the "stiff" area (if I try to do a smooth slow pull) it moves in jerks. If I "straight pull" the trigger it breaks evenly, but the gun moves as the trigger releases due to change in finger presseure and trigger going back and hitting the frame. I'll admit it could be due to my technique, but I can't get a pull going that keeps the gun dead solid as I pull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 The 5# connnector has less creep and a faster reset thant the 3.5# connector. Of course - it's not as light. That's what I use. YMMV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the duck of death Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 Don't take out all the pre travel. A little is needed to keep the firing pin safety working and to keep the right wing of the drop safety on the plastic shelf. Bountyhunter The parts might be shiny and still be rough. They need to be stoned smooth and then polished. Polishing alone will give a trigger pull as you describe. Flex I know moving the pin is addressed and prohibited in Production, where is deepening the notch in the trigger safety prohibited? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flexmoney Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 FlexI know moving the pin is addressed and prohibited in Production, where is deepening the notch in the trigger safety prohibited? DoD, We may be talking about different things? For clarity, I expand on what I meant in the earlier post (for those that might not know the inner works so well)... Lessening pre-travel can do quite a few different things...not only making the gun (possibly) illegal...but also making it unsafe...defeating all, or most, of the three safeties. First, all the (3) safeties on the Glock are completely dependent on the trigger being forward. The trigger is directly linked to the trigger bar... The trigger is attached, directly, to the trigger bar...they move in conjucntin with each other. When the forward travel of the trigger is limited...a few things can happen. - the left wing of the trigger bar (looking from the backof the gun) can get where it isn't as far up on the safety shelf (in the ejector housing) as it should be. This is one of the safeies. - the ramp on the trigger bar that pushes up on the spring loaded safety plunger could be partially of fully disengaged. - The trigger may not be far enough forward to all the trigger safety to engage the frame. The trigger may not be far enough forward to all the trigger safety to engage the frame. Some may like to modify the back of this safety so that it can engage without the trigger being as far forward. This would likely be considered and external modification...and be illegal for USPSA Production division. 5.1.4 Unless required by a Division (see Appendices), there is no restriction on the trigger pull weight of a handgun, however, the trigger mechanism must, at all times, function safely and as originally designed. 5.1.6 Handguns must be serviceable and safe. Range Officers may demand examination of a competitor’s handgun or related equipment, at any time, to check they are functioning safely. If any such item is declared unserviceable or unsafe by a Range Officer, it must be withdrawn from the match until the item is repaired to the satisfaction of the Range Master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirty whiteboy Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 The 5# connnector has less creep and a faster reset thant the 3.5# connector. Of course - it's not as light. That's what I use. YMMV The 5# w/ the wolff trigger kit makes for a nice Glock trigger! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthpawG26 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 (edited) just wondering if there are special techniques that can make the pull transition less jerky. Then there are those really anal itty-bitty things you can do (and I did ); -Polish striker spring inside and out; -Check liner for burs, replace if necesarry; -Same with spacer; -Degrease all plastic contact surfaces (including liner and spacer, triggerhousing, spring cups), and apply automotive silicone spray; -Use marine cups; -Warning: controversial points to follow: apply a MINIMAL amount of a good grease (I use TW25B) with low dirt-attracting properties to: -striker lug/triggerbar engagement area; -all areas of triggerbar (mostly on the underside) that ride against the triggerhousing; -inside spacer, and along the sides of the striker lug that make contact with the slot in the slide; -the plunger; -the spring cups' outer surface (less chance of dirt collection within the striker channel having impact on striker performance if you use marine cups); -the tapered area of the striker, where a compressed striker spring will rub against. Edited October 19, 2006 by SouthpawG26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JFD Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 I think stoning/polishing is the best thing you can do to smooth out the trigger pull. My RS trigger kit needed to be stoned before it was as smooth as my own trigger job on the original parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SouthpawG26 Posted October 19, 2006 Share Posted October 19, 2006 (edited) While on the subject of microscopic details, look VERY closely at Wolff's RP striker springs, one end coil is just sllllliiiiiiigghhhty bigger than the diameter of the rest of the spring. Be sure to have that end against the spacer, not on the spring cup side. I've seen this end coil drag and wear on the channel liner, when reversed. Edited October 19, 2006 by SouthpawG26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillGarlandJr Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 When I first put a Sotello trigger in my G35 I noticed a little creep at a certain point in the trigger pull. I repeatedly pulled the guts out of the pistol and examined them to see if I could identify what was causing the creep, but I didn't see anything. Then one day when I was dry firing the pistol I noticed the bottom of the trigger safety was dragging on the inside of the trigger guard. I installed a stock trigger spring and that cured the problem, though I imagine a person could remedy the problem by kissing the bottom edge of the trigger safety with some fine emory paper. I have no idea how common this problem might be, but it might be worth looking at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 I think stoning/polishing is the best thing you can do to smooth out the trigger pull.My RS trigger kit needed to be stoned before it was as smooth as my own trigger job on the original parts. I thought I got everything smooth, I'll eyeball it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronson7 Posted November 11, 2006 Share Posted November 11, 2006 I had a similar situation on my G30. The trigger was scratchy on the way back. I stripped the gun and noticed the side of the trigger bar that's next to the frame had developed a wear pattern. Obviously the bar was sliding on the frame. I polished the flat side of the trigger bar (the side by the frame) and creep/scratchiness was gone. Hope that helps. Bronson7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted November 14, 2006 Author Share Posted November 14, 2006 I'll check next time I strip it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted November 14, 2006 Share Posted November 14, 2006 Try breaking the edge of the birdshead where it contacts the connector. The bent tab on the connector sometimes leaves a little radius inside the bend. If the edge of the birdshead that contacts the connector when the trigger is pulled is sharp, the corner will hit and drag. Clean everything up, coat it with magic marker, assemble and dry fire it a few times. Look for the shiny spot. The curved part of the birdshead should contact the inside surface of the tab on the connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chp5 Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 What's the "birdshead"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Micah Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 What's the "birdshead"? I believe that he is refering to this point on the trigger bar... My trigger felt alot better after the RS kit and an overtravel stop. Always seeking to improve, I recently purchased a Vanek Production drop-in kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
open17 Posted November 15, 2006 Share Posted November 15, 2006 (edited) What's the "birdshead"? I believe that he is refering to this point on the trigger bar... Yup--that's what I was referring to. NOW---does anybody know why that part is called a birdshead? The "cruciform" I get, it's kind of shaped like a cross. Is the birdshead term a Glock factory designation? Interesting--just noticed that the trigger bar picture is of a G21 trigger. So why does the G21 (and maybe G20?) trigger bar have that little bump on the side and none of the others do? Edited November 15, 2006 by open17 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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