Reducing Trigger Creep

[Flexmoney]

So why does the G21

(and maybe G20?) trigger bar have that little bump on the side and none of the others do?

It does help keep the bar from flexing.

[Joe D]

I just call it the "nose". Try one of Lone Wolf's 3.5 connectors. It is 4 to 8 oz lighter than a Glock or Scherer. If you want a really short crisp 1911 type pull use a modified trigger bar an an 8 lb connector.

I have done a few. Yields a crisp 3 lb pull.

[want2race]

Since we are talking triggers here I'd like to add some things I've been working on.

Pretravel. After polishing the FP safety and lighting the spring a bit I limited the forward travel so that the trigger bar bump (that depresses the FP safety) sits just in front of it. In the stock trigger, there are really three stages. Pretravel, depression of the FP safety, then finally releasing the firing pin. All three can be felt quite easily. Swapping the FP safety spring to a lighter one greatly reduces it, but you can still feel it.

I've eliminated the pretravel without effecting the FP safety function. You can see this by looking in the mag well will cycling the trigger. The rear of the trigger safety must be reduced to allow it to still clear the frame and be fully functional. This is what I believe may be questionable in Production. I'm into full blown limited mods next so this one didn't really matter.

I accomplished the pretravel elimination by adding a vertical pin in the trigger housing. The cruciform (left tab) hits the pin and that limits the travel. The cruciform still sits on the drop safety portion when forward, so I still have not bypassed that safety either.

Finally, the post travel. I switched to a 5 lbs connector first. I added another vertical pin in the trigger housing ($13 part from Glock if you botch it). The forward edge of the pin limits the rearward movement of the cruciform. Once pin is installed, it is filed back untill the firing pin can be released upon trigger pull.

Unfortunately, the trigger bar and cruciform area flex a great deal when using the pin as a post travel stop. I fixed this by adding a trigger stop attached directly to the back of the trigger. I installed it on the right side since I am right handed and it does not affect the trigger safety.

The trigger now feels like close to a 4 lbs 1911 trigger, but with a longer pretravel (long if it was a 1911 trigger). Once this Glock trigger is stacked, it needs less than 1/8th inch to break. That also means the reset is now about 1/8th of an inch as well. Much, MUCH shorter.

I test fired it last night and it will take some getting used to, but is very nice. Very short. I prefer the short over the softer but longer 3.5lbs connect that came in the 34 stock.

I may try using a Ghost Rocket, but this was free and those aren't. No matter what I do to this thing, it still works. I really thought I'd have some issues but so far it just keeps working.

I forgot to add that I started with the RS kit with the light FP and FP safety and a heavy trigger spring.

[Paladin]

.. i use to obsess about this esp. since I had this annoying seven o'clock push that Glock is known for.. eventually found out the technique fix and following that I can shoot Glocks well irrespective of trigger setup..