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Rival-S Chambering Issue


telligentgunner

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8 hours ago, telligentgunner said:

 

Are you trying to buy a new barrel or get the one you have replaced?  If replaced, are you just sending them your barrel, sending them your whole gun, or what?

 

I'm getting my Rival-S back from warranty service and they did not do anything about the barrel.  I have a feeling I'm going to have the same extraction issues.  I don't want to worry about getting it reamed so it can shoot a variety of ammo that it should in the first place. 

I am trying to get it a new one since I have a bulged barrel from a squib load. They don't have any barrels listed on the website so I just contacted support directly. They charged me since that isn't covered under warranty but they have sent me.

 

About your extraction issues. I have seen one gun run bad but the guy had replace a striker spring, recoil spring all in one go so I can't say what it was. Mine has run perfectly. I've seen two others in matches and they have run great too. If you wanna solve your overinsertion issue place a o-ring at the base of the magazine extension and it will not allow it to overinsert. 

 

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On 6/23/2023 at 12:34 AM, Thomas918 said:

I've been trying to get a new barrel for my Rival-S since April. Let me know when they get you yours. And make sure they install the Rival-S's barrel and not the polymer Rival barrel. I only mention that because they sent me 3 polymer Rival barrels instead of the Rival-S's, even though the customer service guy made a note to make sure I was given the right one. 

Thank you for this info.  I'm starting to get annoyed especially since a well known GM recently got a new barrel super quick and posted online.  I'm about to ask for the gun back so I can get the barrel reamed and try that.  

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2 months after sending my Rival-S for warranty service to fix over-insertion and extraction issues, I just got it back.  I  tested it and there was absolutely no improvement.  I irritatingly got on the phone to customer service and they said they would send me some parts and if that didn't work they would replace the firearm. 

 

Here's what they took 2 months to do that didn't fix the over-insertion or chambering issue:

  • Mag catch fit
  • Ejector function
  • Tested fired 18rds
  • Replaced slide stop spring
  • Checked FCG
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11 hours ago, telligentgunner said:

2 months after sending my Rival-S for warranty service to fix over-insertion and extraction issues, I just got it back.  I  tested it and there was absolutely no improvement.  I irritatingly got on the phone to customer service and they said they would send me some parts and if that didn't work they would replace the firearm. 

 

Here's what they took 2 months to do that didn't fix the over-insertion or chambering issue:

  • Mag catch fit
  • Ejector function
  • Tested fired 18rds
  • Replaced slide stop spring
  • Checked FCG

I watched your live fire footage. You are really having to beat the gun open. Are you using reloaded ammo? Mine isn't too picky about ammo, but when I was loading fat(.357) coated lead bullets over 1.140 they would get sometimes get stuck. They definitely wouldn't plunk. That's an extreme example though, due to the bullets being .357 and loaded long for the type of bullet it was(flat point 150gr). I have the overinsertion issue but it rarely effects function during a match unless it really is jammed in there. I have bought o-rings to put at the base of the mag near the baseplate and it solved that issue completely.

Edited by Thomas918
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12 hours ago, Thomas918 said:

I watched your live fire footage. You are really having to beat the gun open. Are you using reloaded ammo? Mine isn't too picky about ammo, but when I was loading fat(.357) coated lead bullets over 1.140 they would get sometimes get stuck. They definitely wouldn't plunk. That's an extreme example though, due to the bullets being .357 and loaded long for the type of bullet it was(flat point 150gr). I have the overinsertion issue but it rarely effects function during a match unless it really is jammed in there. I have bought o-rings to put at the base of the mag near the baseplate and it solved that issue completely.

 

It was remanufactured ammo that I never had a problem with in any other gun.

 

Everyone's talking about o-rings.  Do you need to put o-rings on Glocks, CZs, Sigs, Walthers, etc. to get them to work in competition? That would be a no.  Canik needs to fix this issue and recall all the guns they've sold so far.  What if a jam happens when someone is trying to use a Rival-S for home defense to protect their family?  This is NOT good or acceptable to me.

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1 hour ago, telligentgunner said:

 

It was remanufactured ammo that I never had a problem with in any other gun.

 

Everyone's talking about o-rings.  Do you need to put o-rings on Glocks, CZs, Sigs, Walthers, etc. to get them to work in competition? That would be a no.  Canik needs to fix this issue and recall all the guns they've sold so far.  What if a jam happens when someone is trying to use a Rival-S for home defense to protect their family?  This is NOT good or acceptable to me.

 

Just because ammo works in one gun doesn't mean it will work in all guns. The round getting stuck in the chamber and needing to be beating out is not a uncommon issue. It's more common in reloads and remanufactured ammo. So far 100% of the instances I've seen across many manufactures has been solved with either different ammo or for reloads shortening the OAL. 

 

I'd bet when they test fired it they used different ammo and it worked fine. You could also use different ammo, or if you want to use trashy ammo get your chamber reamed for it. 

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2 hours ago, Racinready300ex said:

 

Just because ammo works in one gun doesn't mean it will work in all guns. The round getting stuck in the chamber and needing to be beating out is not a uncommon issue. It's more common in reloads and remanufactured ammo. So far 100% of the instances I've seen across many manufactures has been solved with either different ammo or for reloads shortening the OAL. 

 

I'd bet when they test fired it they used different ammo and it worked fine. You could also use different ammo, or if you want to use trashy ammo get your chamber reamed for it. 

 
Glock, Sig Sauer, Walther, Smith & Wesson... Please send me by PM where on this site people are talking about reaming the barrels of brand new guns from these manufacturers because of ammo that works in one gun model that doesn't work in the other.

 

 

Edited by telligentgunner
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3 hours ago, telligentgunner said:

 
Glock, Sig Sauer, Walther, Smith & Wesson... Please send me by PM where on this site people are talking about reaming the barrels of brand new guns from these manufacturers because of ammo that works in one gun model that doesn't work in the other.

 

 

This a common issue with CZ pistols 

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12 hours ago, telligentgunner said:

 
Glock, Sig Sauer, Walther, Smith & Wesson... Please send me by PM where on this site people are talking about reaming the barrels of brand new guns from these manufacturers because of ammo that works in one gun model that doesn't work in the other.

 

 

 

Dude, you are in the site just search for the information. Several people have already mentioned it, we're not all making it up. 

 

https://patriotdefense.com/patriot-defense-9mm-barrel-reaming-hard-coating-m

 

 

Edited by Racinready300ex
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I started with two polymer Rivals last year. I tried running my usual reloads, which were 147gr, flat nose, coated rounds, but I had the same problem of rounds getting stuck in the chamber and having to really crank on it to get the slide back. Rounds were loaded to 1.145 OAL. The same thing happened when I tried truncated nose, FMJs.

 

I had both barrels reamed by my gunsmith for $40 total and never had a problem again. 

 

As others have said, the guns made in Europe are made for 124gr NATO round nose loaded pretty short. I know a lot of people with CZs and Tanfos who have had to have their barrels reamed. 

 

Oddly, at the beginning of the year, I replaced my polymer Darkside with a chrome Rival-S. I haven't had to have it reamed. Not sure why, but it's probably because I started running 124gr round nose FMJs or plated that are loaded shorter (1.125 OAL). The specs are much closer to what you find in a factory round, obviously with less charge. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

just got my S barrel back from Patriot.........I could NOT get this S to run at all, stock, spring changes, polishing, etc.....nothing worked. Canik sent me a new barrel and extractor spring.....EXACT same issues, FTEs all the time, ammo didnt matter , everything from 115gr to 147gr and from .011 to .015. I had nothing to lose so I sent out my original barrel....tried it today and it runs everything.....accuracy has not suffered. FINALLY

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The problem is not the mags, and all the fixes are not fixing the root cause; they are just working around the problem. You don't need special mags base pads, or O-rings, or any other gimmicks. The problem is that the striker block plunger is too wide. the mag when pushed up is riding on the plunger. Remove the plunger and Dremel an angle on it - presto, totally fixed; all mags work, regardless of what base pads you use; with or without magwell... You should remove the plunger to put the bevel on it. It is held in place by the extractor, which is held in place by a spring loaded pin... Careful taking it apart; there are 3 small springs involved. Guarantee that this will fix all these problems... You're welcome...

 

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On 8/31/2023 at 1:48 AM, JoeK1 said:

The problem is not the mags, and all the fixes are not fixing the root cause; they are just working around the problem. You don't need special mags base pads, or O-rings, or any other gimmicks. The problem is that the striker block plunger is too wide. the mag when pushed up is riding on the plunger. Remove the plunger and Dremel an angle on it - presto, totally fixed; all mags work, regardless of what base pads you use; with or without magwell... You should remove the plunger to put the bevel on it. It is held in place by the extractor, which is held in place by a spring loaded pin... Careful taking it apart; there are 3 small springs involved. Guarantee that this will fix all these problems... You're welcome...

 

Do you mind taking a picture the next time you have the gun apart to give an idea of how much to take off?  Mine is angled on the front, I'm guessing you're talking about the side/inside edge? It isn't showing weird wear, but I do have the the gouge marks on the slide itself as shown by other users.

 

 

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  • 2 months later...
On 8/31/2023 at 1:48 AM, JoeK1 said:

The problem is not the mags, and all the fixes are not fixing the root cause; they are just working around the problem. You don't need special mags base pads, or O-rings, or any other gimmicks. The problem is that the striker block plunger is too wide. the mag when pushed up is riding on the plunger. Remove the plunger and Dremel an angle on it - presto, totally fixed; all mags work, regardless of what base pads you use; with or without magwell... You should remove the plunger to put the bevel on it. It is held in place by the extractor, which is held in place by a spring loaded pin... Careful taking it apart; there are 3 small springs involved. Guarantee that this will fix all these problems... You're welcome...

 

 

Please take some pics and show some specifics, I'd really like to see exactly what you're doing to fix the issues.

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I'm going to look at my Walthers and see if this part is interchangeable.  If so and the Walther part is thinner, then parts are available if you don't want to mess with it.  Certain parts should be able to work in both guns.

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@JoeK1, is that channel along the bottom-side of the inside of the slide not on some Rival/Rival-S? Is mine from a new batch or something? I've attached two images showing different angles (lighting) and in one of the images I drew a dotted line to highlight the channel during slide reciprocation.

IMG_20231117_134311.jpg

IMG_20231117_134327.jpg

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15 hours ago, Signal7 said:

 

Please take some pics and show some specifics, I'd really like to see exactly what you're doing to fix the issues.

 

I imagine what you could do is pull the slide and color the bottom of the FP stop plunger with a sharpie. Then reassemble and pull the trigger a bunch of times. You shouldn't even need to rack the slide. The trigger bar should rub the sharpie off where it contact the safety. 

 

I would think you could remove as much material as you want to allow for clearance as long as you keep the area of contact intact. 

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