Thomas918

In that case I’m pretty sure the METE parts fit for that gun. Now I can’t be for certain, but now I’m gonna head over to rune tactical to check out this race package Chutist mentioned

I found a firing pin block on Canik’s website. In stock. Labeled for tp9 and mete models. There’s an ejector assembly for the tp9 and also one for mete models( not sure if it fits the rival-s but the polymer rival is listed) in stock. What gun do you have? I’ve bought random parts for my rivals before and even had them send me barrels for the rival-s even though it’s not listed on the website. I just had to wait a long time and deal with the support team.

The match isn’t listed as a level two so it doesn’t show up when searching with filters on practiscore. With all the matches it’s hard to find unless you select uspsa and set location to OKC.

What glasses/lenses did you get to help with your astigmatism? Even with my current prescription I have a decent bit of starburst when the dot is turned up.

Man you really went above and beyond providing those part numbers. How much of a pain was it to replace the main bearing? I had a hard time replacing the bearings on the indexing arm.

I’ve been having some issues with my OAL being quite big. I chalked it up to brass issues for the most part but I am wondering if my press has the issues you had. Which bearings did you replace? The main bearing inside the press, I guess? And where does this shim go for the shell plate?

Where are you getting your JHP?

I’ve used the spy mode and time overlay. The app sometimes disconnects from the timer, and you have to open it again well before you get back on deck to shoot because it would need to reconnect to the timer otherwise it will use the phone’s microphone to record shot times. It’s very accurate and starts the time when the RO’s timer beeps.

I’ve used my sizing die above the swaging station since I had the press. The included hold down die is in the priming station. I’ve noticed that the hold down die makes the tool head rock a lot(Variances in brass worsen it since I have it set pretty low/tight). I’m thinking of moving my sizing die into the priming station and removing the hold down die altogether. Since I’ve decided I’m not gonna use the swage station anymore I think that’s my best bet. Any thoughts?

I finally had some luck by just not using crimped brass. The primers that were dragging inside the wheel and housing causing the damage you saw in my pictures, were primers that didn’t want to go into the primer pockets and got a little mangled. They then fell back down into the gear which caused a stoppage. I ran 1000 rounds without a single stoppage.

After using Lee with hardened pins, mighty armory spring decapper, and FW arms with auto centering. The FW arms is truly the only one I would recommend now. It works so well. It works great for rifle cases that wobble on progressive presses.

As a follow up, does anybody have any review on bullet feeder and its reliability? Any upside down bullets? Does it shave coated bullets? Does expanded and belled cases scrape in the bullet seating die? My seater die from Redding has a tight opening and it doesn’t like expanded cases. It even closes up the bell on the case as it’s seating bullets which strips the coating off my coated bullets. I may make the switch to the FA bullet feeder and die if everything has been working out for everyone.

I just ran another 1000 on the machine. This time I sorted out all my crimped brass. I didn’t have one primer related stoppage the whole session. Or any other stoppage for that matter. At this point, I don’t think my swage rod is doing anything anymore. The top of the rod looks a little worn down, and when it does work it just rips the crimp ring and pushes it into the primer pocket. I’m becoming more happy with the press overall as I learn its quirks.

What decap die are you using, I use a FW arms decapper with the auto centering function. Great for 223 or rifle cases. I haven’t broke a pin yet. It punches right through small Norma flash holes too. I use my sizing die as a hold down die above swage or prime ( I have an FA X-10 though)

Here is the assembly where the primers scrape in between the gear and housing

Yeah my rods are centered. The priming rod is maybe a touch off based off the mark it leaves on the primer on hard to prime cases. The rod is perfectly centered through the cutout on the shell plate and priming gear though so it seems perfectly centered based on that. I’m using ginex primers which are on the large size. This batch of brass was pulled off of a police range so the problem brass was crimped Winchester and a few European pieces. I had a few slivers of brass that was the remainder of a ring crimp that was pushed into the primer pocket from the swage rod. It didn’t allow the primer to seat and when the plate indexes it knocks the primer down and back into the gear and then gets caught up. Good news though, I haven’t had the first problem I had ages ago where the primer wheel was randomly catching on the upstroke so that’s a plus. I’ve kept the priming assembly cleaned and gunk free which solved that issue I think.

I can find sport pistol now but it’s now in the mid $40 range for a pound. I’ve switched to AA2 and love it. Its price is rising quick too though.

I’m still having trouble with priming assembly. It’s mostly a brass issue but I’ve gotten to the point where I can feel something is off and I remove a piece of brass from the station next to priming and see it’s unprimed. I then know a primer is going to get stuck in the gear so I poke it out of the gear before it gets caught in between the gear and assembly. It’s because of a crimped primer pocket that my swager will not swage down well enough. Looking at the swaging rod you can tell it’s getting worn down a little already. Other than that I haven’t had a case fail to feed onto the plate. Since turning up the speed on the brass collator/feeder, I haven’t had a case jam happen at the top of the case tube. I’ve replaced one bearing on the indexing arm which if it goes out again I will replace with a nylon bushing since those can take a beating. I don’t have a facebook so I can’t view the owners group so I can’t tell what others are having trouble with.

So I have loaded lots of CFE pistol and I like it a lot. Despite it being a slower powder it only makes a little bit more recoil for me. I load at 3.7-4.0 for a 147gr. bullet. So seeing your standard deviation tighten up as you edged to a higher load makes it think you were on the low end of the chart. Now if you were gonna switch powders I would say use AA2. It’s still decently cheap and meters way better than n300 series powders. I get 8 std deviation and 25 extreme spread with it. Sport pistol was nice but now cost is somewhere in the mid $40s. AA2 meters at a deviation of .05gr per drop . Sport pistol and titegroup meters at .1gr deviation per drop. N300 was a little high for me .25gr deviation per drop for me. I use a Frankfort arsenal dropper so your results may vary greatly.

Nice runs. It’s fun having a heavy frame to use for both A fudgecicle nobody but a few crayon chewers and winder likkers want and major. I’m gonna go cheap and get a dovetail mount for a dot to use with the 9mm slide so I can see how she runs for LO. I’m sure all that weight will help dissipate recoil. If it’s something I really like for LO I may get the slide milled for a SRO. I run a canik rival for LO and it does great but a light 1911 single action trigger may be a nice advantage. edit: idk why my post was autocorrected to say all window licker and crayon stuff lol. I guess I can’t say m*inor and m*jor

$350 for an upper end and then $60 per mag($22 mecgar tube plus spring and extension) is still cheaper than a newer gun. I’m a broke boy right now. I wish I could swing it and get a new gun altogether but I’m trying to pay off my pole building sooner than later.

Awesome. So did you just have to shave a little bit on the rails or use a polishing/lapping compound to get them to fit nicely? My frame was cerakoted so it is already very tight so I’m wondering how much I will need to take off the slide.

https://taylorfreelancestore.com/canik-basepad-mete-rival-edition-brass/ these are the ones I got. They are labeled as the mere/rival edition. The one with this shape are the newer style. I got the brass but it seems like they changed the bottom to a new look because it doesn’t say nils edition on it anymore. On the mag extension list you can see one that still say nils on it. They are all the newer design with a large shoulder that prevents over insertion.

Any idea where he bought the upper for his? I would love to just get a barrel ejector and slide all in one go. The mags are probably going to be an easier find for me