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Best way to shorten a strain screw?


matteekay

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I finally have my N-Frames running right so I'd like to set up some strain screws at the correct length (and a few slightly longer in case light strikes show up). What's everyone's favorite method for shortening them and keeping the tip square?

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I've found the best method of shortening strain screws to NOT shorten them.

 

I know there is plenty of information around about why you should, but i've always had pretty good luck with some blue loc-tite. There will come the day where your cylinder end shake loosens up and you'll appreciate being able to tighten the strain screw a bit to get thru a match. 

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I don't like to leave them square, most aren't from the factory.  Usually rounded off, if left square and you have one of those ribbed main springs the square edges will round off and change your setting.

As for cutting them, mine don't seem to take much but when they do I just grab hold and use a file.  If you go deep enough to get into the threads you really need to rebend the main spring.

What I do is measure the hammer fall weight, my PC is working at 32 ounces the Pro at 36 ounces and the 625 at 40 ounces, and measure the distance from frame to spring.  Then bottom out the strain screw and re-measure.  Measure the length of the screw from the bottom/base of the head to the tip and subtract the difference.  Then file down to close to that formula install and measure.  When I was using cut down strain screws it was between .350" to .380" overall length, depending on bend.  With one set up for instance measuring length from the base of the head to the tip, .355" would give 32 ounces and light strikes, .365" would give 40 ounces and good with Fed primers and a .380" was over 60 ounces and would ignite everything.

Remember that the length for one main spring might not work for another, depending on the bend.  

 

Buy extra's and remember the length that works is from the bottom of the head to the tip of the screw, some have thicker heads.. I use a set of good dial calipers to measure.

Edited by pskys2
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2 hours ago, alecmc said:

I've found the best method of shortening strain screws to NOT shorten them.

 

I know there is plenty of information around about why you should, but i've always had pretty good luck with some blue loc-tite. There will come the day where your cylinder end shake loosens up and you'll appreciate being able to tighten the strain screw a bit to get thru a match. 

 

I mean, you seem to shoot revolvers once in a while, so if it works for you... ;)

 

 

2 hours ago, RevolverJockey said:

Good point. Also, a small pistol primer fits over the screw and can be used to fix an over shortened screw. Any guesses how I know?

 

That's what's currently in my TRR8... hence this whole project, lol.

 

 

1 hour ago, pskys2 said:

{snip for space}

 

Excellent tips, thank you!

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I made some tiny washers out of a sheet 0.010" shim stock (I think that was the thickness), then added 1 or 2 on the strain screw to get the desired results. Not easy to make but it worked, I first drilled holes the right size in the shim stock then cut out with scissors. This lets you torque it down normally and is adjustable.

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8 hours ago, alecmc said:

I've found the best method of shortening strain screws to NOT shorten them.

 

I know there is plenty of information around about why you should, but i've always had pretty good luck with some blue loc-tite. There will come the day where your cylinder end shake loosens up and you'll appreciate being able to tighten the strain screw a bit to get thru a match. 

Sacrilege !!!  You take that back right now !!

You know any revolver jockey worth their salt would NEVER use Loc-tite  😆🤣😎

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Put the strain screw in a battery powered drill.

Run the screw against a well oiled diamond plate.

You can get the roundness and length you want.

If you go too far, save that one for another gun and start over.

 

I install screw with blue loc-tite.

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3 hours ago, DS-10-SPEED said:

I made some tiny washers out of a sheet 0.010" shim stock (I think that was the thickness), then added 1 or 2 on the strain screw to get the desired results. Not easy to make but it worked, I first drilled holes the right size in the shim stock then cut out with scissors. This lets you torque it down normally and is adjustable.

 

I was wondering if shimming was an option. That does not sound easy, lol.

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13 hours ago, alecmc said:

I've found the best method of shortening strain screws to NOT shorten them.

 

I know there is plenty of information around about why you should, but i've always had pretty good luck with some blue loc-tite. There will come the day where your cylinder end shake loosens up and you'll appreciate being able to tighten the strain screw a bit to get thru a match. 

Where is the Like times 10 button,, lock it down leave it alone,,, PRACTICE... I have a stock 686 I love to shoot, was pretty dominent in pins,,, bought a 386 carry gun someone monkeyed with... While it goes bang trigger is too lioght and I cant shoot the dang thing fast... Need to order a factory spring and screw.

 

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I use an 8-32 hex head screw instead of the factory screw.  I can make it small enough for a very light action but when shooting regular primers it's easy to just screw it in tighter.  I use blue Loctite and it holds it securely.

 

When I used to shooten the screw I put it in a vice grip and used my sander.

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Nobody's mentioned the setcrew thru the bottom of the grip yet ??

 

There are pic's here on BE, you drill & tap a 6-32 or 8-32 hole perpendicular to the strain screw, drop in a piece of lead shot or a short piece of brass rod

into the hole b4 you add the setcrew then tighten down.

 

This mod allows you to adjust your main spring weight which in this "primer pandemic" is something I'm thinking of doing since for 2022 it looks like I'll be

using Fed primers for big matches and Winchester and possibly CCI's for practice/smaller matches 🥴

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That works, too. I like the Loctite version because it's quicker and easier to make an adjustment. With 2 screws you have to take off the grips every time, as opposed to just giving it a tweak in a few seconds.

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3 hours ago, 10mmdave said:

Nobody's mentioned the setcrew thru the bottom of the grip yet ??

 

There are pic's here on BE, you drill & tap a 6-32 or 8-32 hole perpendicular to the strain screw, drop in a piece of lead shot or a short piece of brass rod

into the hole b4 you add the setcrew then tighten down.

 

This mod allows you to adjust your main spring weight which in this "primer pandemic" is something I'm thinking of doing since for 2022 it looks like I'll be

using Fed primers for big matches and Winchester and possibly CCI's for practice/smaller matches 🥴

 

I'm just waiting for Carmoney to get here and destroy this whole thread. Ha.

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48 minutes ago, robertson said:

I don’t like loctite so bend the spring until just right with screw backed out a little, then tighten screw tight. If more spring tension is needed later on just straighten the spring a little.

OLD SCHOOL!!!

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I don't do it like any of those mentioned so far.  Here's what I do:

 

Take the grips off, wear gloves, shoot the gun, start backing the strain screw off until I get a misfire then tighten the strain screw 1/4 turn, then using a center punch, dimple the frame next to the slot in the screw head.  The screw won't move; but, if you ever have to remove the screw, it will come out easily with just a screwdriver.  I've done it this way for over 25 years on my revolvers without any issues.

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