Mover480

I don't know. I've never used that bullet. The 125 JHP 38 super bullets have a more rounded nose and reload just fine with moon clips. I use the same bullet in my 38 Short Colt ammo.

I've had more success with JHP bullets than FMJ ones at major PF. The base of the JHP bullet isn't exposed lead like the FMJ bullets are. That exposed lead may be causing your comp fouling. Also, JHP bullets seem to be more accurate than FMJ ones (probably due to the covered base). I've never got decent groups at 50 yards with FMJ bullets out of a revo. I use Zero 125 gr. JHP 38 Super bullets with 8.3 gr VV 3N37 in a 38 Super revo with a comp at major PF. Minimal comp fouling and, although they're .356", they seem to work well in a .358" barrel at the higher velocities. All my Open USPSA classifiers and scores have been shot with that gun. I also shot the IRC with that gun one year... 169 PF! I've tried coated bullets (not at major PF) in a 9mm PCC with a comp and the results were pretty bad. Tremendous fouling of the comp. I would imagine that they wouldn't work well at major PF. Velocities would be too high.

For accuracy, tested about 10 different types of 22 ammo in a 6" 6-shot 617 in a Ransom Rest many years ago. At 50 yards, 12 shot groups. Worst was Federal bulk pack - 6" group. Best was CCI Pistol Match - 3/4" group. CCI Standard Velocity was about 1.25". Rem Golden bullet was about 2.5". Fed Gold Medal Match and Eley Target about 3". Others like Winchester were in the 3 to 4" range. Didn't test the higher velocity ones like Thunderbolt or Mini Mags. Other guys I shoot with really like Norma Tac in their 22 autos (which I didn't test). YMMV

Unfortunately, 4wheelguns.com no longer is in business. The loading block and case can be obtained directly from Dave Skrzela (DS-10-SPEED). Just send him a PM on this forum.

Wilson Combat FMC for SW929

Here's some more rimfire discussion

I don't think 4WheelGuns is in business anymore; but you can get some North Mountain holders from Shooters Connection. http://4wheelguns.com/index.html https://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/North-Mountain-Moonclip-Holder-4-Post-Offset-and-Extended-P1367.aspx

I don't do it like any of those mentioned so far. Here's what I do: Take the grips off, wear gloves, shoot the gun, start backing the strain screw off until I get a misfire then tighten the strain screw 1/4 turn, then using a center punch, dimple the frame next to the slot in the screw head. The screw won't move; but, if you ever have to remove the screw, it will come out easily with just a screwdriver. I've done it this way for over 25 years on my revolvers without any issues.

I have one.

When mine started doing that, I attributed it to the firing pin bushing being dished out (convex) that allowed the primer to escape gas around its sides. You could see the primers being dished in. So I punched the bushing out and ground/filed the front of the bushing flat (the way they used to be). After putting the flat bushing back in, no more gas cutting of the bushing. And its been that way for years. My load isn't quite as hot as your friend's and the cutting wasn't nearly as bad, but in spots, it looked the same.

Yeah, I've had one for about 20 years. I does work well.

Throw them in the tumbler with the brass.

Get/buy another 627 cylinder and ream it for 9mm?

If you use a chamber brush on the cylinder after you shoot, do they then drop in?

Got them from Bob at 4WheelGuns.com They have a magnet in them and the speedloaders have a ferromagnetic screw in them that holds the loader in place in the holder. They're also handy for steel challenge shooting.