10mmdave

I did these for a 44 Mag customer.

I believe there is an alignment tab on the 327 barrel shroud that mates to the frame so a swap between a 327 an 627 might be an issue. The 327 barrel shroud is steel and still weights a bit, but it's 5 inch length swings okay (imo). I like the idea of the shrouded barrel, Dan Wesson did/does it and Nowlin used to offer the same for S&W revo's, though in steel only I think. The pencil barrel idea is the least costly, the lathe work, clocking the barrel and setting the cylinder gap requires some tools and expertise.

The pivot pin on the hand goes into a notch on the bolt block, when the trigger is pulled all the way back the bolt rises up and prevents the bolt (the internal part that the cylinder release attaches to) from moving forward under recoil, thus un-locking the cylinder. (IIRC)

You did mention you smoothed things up in an earlier post, your pics don't show anything "over smoothed" but now it sounds like you have a sear that's on the edge of being too short. Do you have another sear to swap out from another gun ?

Good luck Big Dog, I'm sure we will all want to know what you find so please keep posting. (and sorry I re-asked about the ammo, I should have re-read your orig post)

Watching the video at .5 and .25 speed, the hammer looks to go forward like the other 5 shots, wouldn't this be a hang fire situation ?? Are you running new reloaded ammo that has had the brass cleaned differently ? I guess the real question is what ammo are you running ? Factory or reloads ? Definitely an odd thing, good luck with your search.

That's all I use when I can get it, got lucky last year and bought a case of it, time to find some more. I've had very good luck with the CCI Blazer for many years of shooting Steel Challenge. Mini Mags are the next ammo I go for, accuracy at 20 yrds seems to be the same there about, though I believe MM has the edge. Not sure if the 617's now are coming with the tight cylinder chambers, back some years it seemed everybody was having ejection problems. I was shooting the Blazer and never saw it, then the ammo shortages happened and I found a bunch would stick in the cylinder, Aquila, Eley, and some I forget. I was buying whatever was available. Good luck with new 617, see DS-10 above or ANSAC for some speed loaders and a loading block, if you plan on shooting steel it makes the day go so much better

Great to hear Squirrel, see you out on the range before we know it !

Oops, deleted my question as I thought Gargoil was an AD

Hope it works out for you wants, post some pics if you can for the masses.

Late to the party here but just wanted to add, I shoot a lot of N Frames in the games and when I went to my K frame sized 617 it just felt puny in my hand, so I put an N Frame Hogue grip on the gun and filled the hollow area in with some JB Weld, after it dried it was simple enough to smooth it out and contour it to the grip. Take too much off all you need to do is just add a little more JB Weld and start again !! After this I "sealed" the JB Weld with some super glue and now I can use any N frame sized grip I want on my K frame. (If u want better pic's let know and I'll see what I can do, just used my laptop camera for these two) PS Looking at the gun I took those pics of it looks like I should trim the tops of the ears of the grip a little, I've been shooting this setup the last 2 years and that;'s the first time I noticed it !!

Quart Tuperware container with some light soapy water and a can of compressed air maybe ?? Don't forget the drying towel for your hands. With the carts I see in use at shooting matches whats one more thing or two to lug around

I didn't see that, that makes no sense.

here's something else from Power Custom, horrible pic, from their website. https://powercustom.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=12&products_id=1155&zenid=9s6bvh77mr4fnbdplhup36hsb3 Annnd I just remembered you said it had to be offered by S&W, sorry.

Such a neat looking gun, why they don't offer it as a 6 shooter will anyone ever know ??

I didn't want to thread drift revolver45's post titled "9mm in a 38 Super" so here's my question. Anyone ever try to roll size 9mm down with a set of .357 dies ?? I think this would be a way to use the short brass folks want for the speedy reload and the better 9mm moon clips. Brass would be plentiful, not cost a bunch, and probably last forever. Folks already use all sorts of bullet sizes in 929's. Being Revo shooters we get all our brass back so it wouldn't be too much of a time loss. So what do the Revo folks think ? Personally I like the robustness and thicker clips of the 9mm, but like the longer brass of the 38 Super, I never have been able to get a good reload with the shorter 9mm brass.

Folks have opened up the extractor star area to allow 9mm brass to be used in the 627 38 Supers, I've done it to mine without having to ream the cylinder out. I believe this works best with new brass and rolled sized brass, any reloads that don't get their cases sized down to the groove may prove to be a problem. If you shoot a steady diet of 9mm in your 38 Super you will most likely develop a carbon ring and fouling that will cause some issues if you go back to using 38 super brass, a good cleaning should help that. Folks I'm sure will chime in and say "just use 38 Short Colt brass and be done with it", but if your looking to use new 9mm factory ammo in your 38 Super some mods will have probably have to be made, small ones that won't affect the gun in any way I know of. And, all this is related to the 38 Super S&W revo's, I don't have any experience with others.

Pic ?

Well that sucks Good luck with version 3 Hopefully Ruger will make the GP 100 version again soon.

Works with any 38/9mm caliber loaded moon clip for S&W K,L and N Frame 6, 7 or 8 shot Ruger's too. (Sorry, the old S&W N Frame 38-357 Mag 6 shot requires a special setup)

I had the same problem, took my Brownells .055 front sight pin punch and pushed the plunger in as far as it would go, drop the sight in and retract the punch and it seated like it's supposed to, worked for a couple of hard sights. Another thing I also started using was a small machinist vise, about an inch-inch and a half wide, tape the jaws and clamp the sight in the vice, gives you some more meat to hand on to and work the sight blade. You need to leave enough room on the sight to rock the vice & sight into the groove.

PM me

Yup, something like that ysrracer. Like the cylinder too, do you think it made much of a difference ?

My work is just a re-working of the 617's original barrel contour, and at my slowness at machining I could never offer my idea to the public. Now if I hit the lottery and can buy a bench top CNC mill then maybe Nope, I'd still need an FFL to take in the gun, that would require a change of address. I could possibly offer a drawing for folks to give to their favorite machinist to do the work, I'll thinkmore on it. MWP Interested in what you're doing if it's what I think it is!

Losing brass !?! say it ain't so !! I tell everyone that's why I shoot revo in these games, hell in USPSA around here people find me to get a moon clip back to me I left on the ground ! Making brass isn't so bad for me, though yes, it takes some time on the users part. A winter project. I cut down a bunch of 38 spcl brass brass years ago, probably got 10 or more reloading thru it at 130 pf. I cut down a bunch of 38 spcl nickel brass, RP brand, and after 5 or so loadings some are starting to crack. (I use nickel for ICORE/USPSA, my old brass brass for SC now so I can tell at glance what I got) One thing I would caution folks on, either do it all un-sized or all of it sized, I did both and the un-sized brass grew in OAL length after sizing, though now that I think about it, it's all in same bucket now and I'm not seeing any issues? Well at least I relayed what I found, use it for what it cost you.