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JP-5 reviews/input


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7 hours ago, DwightSchrute said:


For what it’s worth, I had to take the trigger group out in order to get the JP safety out on my JP-5.  I called JP, and they said I might have to do that, and they were right.  The problem is that they Loctite the hell out of the anti-walk pins, and I had to destroy them to free up the trigger group to get it out from under the JP safety.  So I had to order new JP oversized anti-walk pins for the trigger group reinstall.  The guy I spoke to at JP was extremely helpful, so you might want to give them a call if you have any questions about your next steps.  In the end, it was all worth it for me because I LOVE the Radian Talon’s 45 degree safety switch for stock-on-belt starts.

Thank you. Your inputs on the safety replacement is so detailed and helpful. 

 

Question: were you able to try the Radian Talon with the stock JP trigger? Coz if memory serves me right, i think you said you changed out to Geissele SD3G trigger and Radian Talon. If yes, did it work with the stock JP-5 trigger?

 

I asked that in JP Enterprises Facebook page messenger and the one answering said the JP Trigger will NOT work with Radian Talon. 

Edited by aRjayboy
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53 minutes ago, aRjayboy said:

Thank you. Your inputs on the safety replacement is so detailed and helpful. 

 

Question: were you able to try the Radian Talon with the stock JP trigger? Coz if memory serves me right, i think you said you changed out to Geissele SD3G trigger and Radian Talon. If yes, did it work with the stock JP-5 trigger?

 

I asked that in JP Enterprises Facebook page messenger and the one answering said the JP Trigger will NOT work with Radian Talon. 


I never changed the trigger.  As I posted in another thread, the Radian Talon 45/90 ambidextrous safety works well with the JP trigger in my JP-5.  The only odd development is that I am now able to engage the safety with the hammer down with the 45 degree selector set up.  I was never able to do that when I had the JP 90-degree safety selector installed.


I’ve seen people post here that JP says the Radian Talon 45/90 ambidextrous safety will not work with the JP trigger.  They never told me that.  The guy I spoke with at JP said he didn’t know, and that I’d have to try it to find out.  Since I already had a Radian Talon 45/90 ambidextrous safety, I went ahead and tried it, and it worked for me.  The only thing it cost me was a new set of JP oversized anti-walk pins.  And I now have to to be aware of whether the hammer is down or not without trying to engage the safety as a way to check.

Edited by DwightSchrute
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Trying to swap the mlok handguard out to a smoke composites. Andre at JP told me the barrel nut on this HG can be removed with a normal wrench. I have doubts. If so then I will keep heating and go at the flats on the portion next to the receiver more aggressively, but wanted to check before I risk possible damage.

IMG_20230903_100210_EUsVWOPq9B.jpeg

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I don’t see how. I just did this and luckily had the 3 holes on the face to match the 3 pins on the combo wrench. It was so freaking tight with loctite even after torching.

Try Kroil. I had to shoot that into the barrel but retainer to budge it. I didn’t want to go so hard on my upper so went slow and gentle. The Kroil did the trick

 

IMG-2830.jpg

Edited by brian45acp
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19 minutes ago, brian45acp said:

I don’t see how. I just did this and luckily had the 3 holes on the face to match the 3 pins on the combo wrench.

Is this with the RC handguard or the Mlok? I have a great armorers wrench and I can't find any way that it will work on what I have -- there's just nothing to put torque on except the portion next to the receiver. At least I know that turns, so I'll hit it with oil, heat, oil, heat, and then plenty of torque. I'm not particular about the finish, I might use it on something else myself.

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I didn’t have the M lok guard.

 

I think the kroil will help. It’s a creeping oil. But I used it on the barrel nut retainer which had anti seize and not loctite. 
 

I would torch the nut you have there and let the heat transfer through. With a rag you should be able to get a good grip on it. But that red loctite has to get heated.

 

I used loctite to reinstall but didn’t go nuts. 

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1 hour ago, Darqusoull13 said:

There's a bunch of blem -5's available on JP's site. You're probably not going to see those again for a long, long time. If you wanted one quick and a bit under retail, now's the time. 

Just don't tell Ben or Andre you know me when you order 🤣


I’m not seeing them.  What section are they in?

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  • 2 weeks later...

The lock piece are inversely correlated with the power factor of your ammo. For higher PF loads, you want a lower lock angle, for lower PF loads, you want a higher lock angle. If you're lock piece is too low, then it could cause reliability issues. If it's too high, then it cause excess wear and recoil. Steel Challenge uses much lower power factors which is why they have higher lock pieces. If they were to use the 70 locker in Steel Challenge, the lock would be "too low" for the power factor they use and thus have reliability (cycling) issues.

Edited by k2pichu
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On 9/3/2023 at 10:04 AM, Keyst0ne said:

Trying to swap the mlok handguard out to a smoke composites. Andre at JP told me the barrel nut on this HG can be removed with a normal wrench. I have doubts. If so then I will keep heating and go at the flats on the portion next to the receiver more aggressively, but wanted to check before I risk possible damage.

 

Follow up on this -- m-lok handguards that look like mine require the small frame Mk III hand guard tool here:

https://www.jprifles.com/buy.php?item=JPNUT3-T

 

It came apart pretty easily, though I did apply a lot of heat first. No sign of red loctite or anything.

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14 hours ago, Eidoss said:

Confused and looking for help:
If the 70 lock piece provides lower recoil than the 80 lock piece, why does JP recommends the 100-120 lock piece for Steel challenge to get a closer feeling to rimfire rifles?


Short Lock Piece Guide for Reference
Everything below is suggested for 100% reliability first, THEN feel. You might get your load to work. That's cool! 

80 Degree - Almost all ammo except some ridiculous steel challenge Sub-minor 90 gr that you can likely throw faster. This is why the rifles ship with an 80 degree lock piece. 

70 Degree - 124/5 grain and lower (e.g. 115 gr) loads at or above USPSA Power Factor ~130. Note, 147 and 150 grain loads at power factor may or may not cycle. I personally wouldn't recommend this due to 1 in 1000 (est.) rounds potentially not cycling. Your mileage may vary, proceed with caution. 

60 Degree - Intended for duty ammo. If you get it to run your pet load, great! Enjoy the softest recoil. For most other applications not recommended. 

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Now for the edge use case that 2-3 people will actually use, the 100 and 120 degree lock pieces. Some Steel Challenge shooters may want to load 80 / 90 / 100 grain bullets intended for 380's with reduced powder charges for that ultimate soft feel. They are hilariously soft by the way(😉). But you can get into scenarios where even the 80 degree lock piece wont 100% reliably cycle your comically light loads. Enter the 100 and 120 degree lock pieces. Now you can run an 80 gr projectile well under the speed of sound to tickle the far plates on Outer Limits juuuuust enough that a second later everyone hears the "ding". It's a bit unnerving at first to have to wait to hear the report, but that's just because not everyone wants to waste powder getting the bullet to the plate🤣. You may have to adjust your holds for targets past 20 yards! 

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Just want to report the 60 lock piece is awesome. I keep reading others say it's for duty ammo and it's not true. I am only a 124jhp 1130-1150fps. I did swap the SCS to the lightest spring which is white colored. Brass ejects 7-8ft which I just shy of the recommend 9ft by JP. Talking to JP one of their guys uses the 60 lock piece as well. 

 

 

Dont be afraid to try it based on what the internet says. 

 

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Dumb question regarding handguard swap...

 

I just picked up a new to me JP-5 with the round (non-mlok) handguard.   I'm looking to change out the handguard at some point.

 

I understand that I might need a barrel nut tool in order to remove the barrel nut.  But it seems that I stumped before I even get to that stage.  Here comes the dumb question... 

 

How do you even get the handguard off so you can access the barrel nut?  There does not appear to be any bolt/nut holding the handguard on to the upper.  I watched a few older videos from JP and it seems that there are four 1/8" allen on the jam nut that you can access through the holes of the handguard.  Do you have to loosen these four allens in order to spine the handguard off? 

 

I tried to loosen these allens, but can only crack open one of them.  I was bending my allen key and the other three still won't budge.  Do I need to take a torch and point the flame into the holes to the allen in order to break the loctite? 

 

Really appreciate any tips/guidance!                                                     

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12 hours ago, rayw1128 said:

 Do you have to loosen these four allens in order to spine the handguard off? 

 

I tried to loosen these allens, but can only crack open one of them.  I was bending my allen key and the other three still won't budge.  Do I need to take a torch and point the flame into the holes to the allen in order to break the loctite? 

 

Really appreciate any tips/guidance!                                                     

 

Yes, you have to loosen all 4 allen screws.  Yes, you will probably need to apply heat.  I use a micro torch like this to soften thread locker.  It only takes a couple seconds to soften the thread locker.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Refillable-Soldering-Adjustable-Versatile-Included/dp/B0B5RKWNMS/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?

 

Nolan

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