k2pichu

I bought both 1.57 and 1.93 and the higher mount fit me better. With the 1.57, I had to scrunch up behind the gun or else the dot would be in the upper part of the window. When I mount with a 1.93, the dot is centered every time. I think you mean higher over bore / mechanical offset instead of parallax which is something different. It's only .36 higher initially, and that shrinks as you approach your zero distance. It's not really noticeable when you're actually shooting. You have to adjust for offset no matter what setup you have so you might as well practice with the one that feels more comfortable for you.

I use scalarworks 1.93 + arisaka (tall plate) with SRO's. 507 would be a good option that's $200 cheaper per optic.

I have a Taylor Freelance one and it works well. I've heard good things about the Techwell one too. I don't think there's that big of a difference between the two in terms of performance.

If you're just shooting PCC for fun and enjoy gunsmithing, there's nothing wrong with modding it to see if you can come up with a solution, but if you plan on competing seriously in PCC, I'd just sell it and buy something else. The time you spend tinkering and the money you spend on parts and ammo while testing easily allows you to just buy a more reliable PCC.

For me, mount at 10 yards is .65 - .80 and my splits are around .15 so that maths out to 1.4 - 1.55s for a bill drill. You're time is isn't far off, but 3C's are going to hurt. I can do .15 splits at a 25 yard target and get 2A off one sight picture without any issue. What's your technique like? I recommend watching this video on how to properly hold the PCC: For reference, I have a JP5 and I've shoot a mix of Supervel and Blazer Brass. It's probably not the gun or ammo tbh. Buy a JP5.

As a fun experiment, I tried to increase the weight of my M&P with tungsten infused epoxy around the grip. I did it in a few layers, but I got the weight up by about 8.8 oz in the end. I haven't had a chance to live fire it, but I'll report back when I do. Total weight is 45 oz with flashlight and mag.

I've been shooting Supervel PCC blitz recently which is 1.12 OAL according to the website. I've no issues with oem glock mags and TTI. That said, it sounds like everyone's guns have a preference. If Glock + TTI doesn't work in your setup, you might as well try some of the other options mentioned to see what works for you.

I run SRO's on my PCC and they've been 100% for me. I used to run a Sig Romeo 8H which is somewhat comparable to an Eotech in form factor, but it was quite heavy. I've heard of longevity issues with the SIG 3XLs, but that's purely anecdotal from people I've talked to at local matches.

TREX Arms makes light compatible holsters for the M&P. I use one for my M&P + x300, but they also support TLR-1. I run mine on a Safariland QLS system, but their holsters support all the major mounting patterns.

I use Weber Tactical (https://www.webertactical.com/product/gamer-glock-9-40-pcc#product_detail). It's pricier than other options, but well built. It also has more options for customizing colors if you care for that.

Weber Tactical makes mag pouches for glock PCC mags. They are on the pricier side, but well built and is what I use.

The 10 round glock mags "disappear" inside of my JP5 + magwell, which makes it awkward to reload with. I would go for the big sticks and pin it or put a blocker inside of it since it'll be easier to grab. However, it might be look a bit funny with you carrying 4-5 big sticks on your belt running around. I've seen some people use G17 mags + base plates which might be a good compromise, but generally the point of PCC is you don't have to reload In case you haven't seen, there's another recent thread discussing magazines and extensions:

Cool story, but for USPSA, my point still stands as it has a max round count of 32 and a TTI extensions hold 40/41 rounds. If you're missing 8-9 shots on a USPSA stage with a PCC, you've got bigger problems than what mags you're using.

I used some pliers and ripped out the tabs. Not sure if you have to or not. It was easy to do and I've no issues with taking off and putting on the extension.

TTI are toolless to disassemble and reassemble. There's a push pin that's friction fit that holds it on. Though with PCC, there's no reason to have to take apart your mags to clean between stages since you aren't dropping them.

JP had a similar procedure they recommended for their PCC. I followed it since it didn't take THAT long to do and I was zeroing it in anyways. I doubt it made any difference though

Glock pccs mags are around $30, and the TT extensions are around $30 now on sale, so $60 total. You don't need to replace the follower and TT comes with extended springs. I'm sure in some rare cases, having a shorter mag could be an advantage, perhaps with a very low port or other props that would cause the big stick to snag on something, but 99.999% of the time, that won't be an issue. Prices vary for sure, but generally it's cheaper. It's also easier to carry 6 big sticks for a local match instead of 6 drums. Someone mentioned drums could be a nice addition to "prop" your gun up on table starts, but again, the time gains are minimal there. You might lose the same amount of time by not having a magwell on your gun for forced reload stages. In the end, I feel like there's no tangible performance difference. If you have a preference for one, or if you find one on sale, go for whatever floats your boat.

Max Leograndis used a drum at PCC Nats this year. I don't think it matters in the context of USPSA since the stages have a maximum of 32 rounds and Glock PCC mags + Extendos will get you to 40 easily. If you're taking more than 8 makeup shots a stage, you've got bigger problems than what magazine you're running . Drums cost more, weigh more, and don't work with some aftermarket magwells on certain platforms. From what I've seen locally, glock pcc mags + TT extensions have enough capacity and runs reliably, so why change it?

When I mount, I try to hit the correct spot on my chest with the stock first time. Sliding around costs time and is inconsistent. As you practice more you'll be able to mount more accurately. My stock has some rubber on the back so it's a bit "sticky" as in it'll drag my shirt around. Honestly, I wouldn't worry about how sticky your buttpad is and I wouldn't go out of my way to make my buttpad stickier or slicker. I'd invest my time in dryfire instead.

I don't have the side charger and I don't feel it's necessary. You might save a few tenths on an unloaded start or table start if you have the competition handle prop the gun up a bit. Given how rare those are and how little that matters in the grand scheme of the things, I didn't feel like it was worth extra money on. If you want to spend the extra money though, I'd say go for it, there's no real downsides to it either.

The lock piece are inversely correlated with the power factor of your ammo. For higher PF loads, you want a lower lock angle, for lower PF loads, you want a higher lock angle. If you're lock piece is too low, then it could cause reliability issues. If it's too high, then it cause excess wear and recoil. Steel Challenge uses much lower power factors which is why they have higher lock pieces. If they were to use the 70 locker in Steel Challenge, the lock would be "too low" for the power factor they use and thus have reliability (cycling) issues.

I don't do anything specific for my chamber. I wipe off what I can with a paper towel/q-tip, coat everything with a layer of solvent and let sit, wipe again, and oil.

I've only been to a few SC matches, but I usually see the serious people reload after each string. Weight would be one issue, but my guess consistency would be another factor since full mags weigh much more than an empty one.

1. Generally speaking, 60 degree is for spicier, "duty" ammo, 70 degree is for normal factory ammo, and 80 degree is for lower PF loads. I have a 70 degree lock piece and I shoot Blazer brass at 145 PF and I have good ejection and reliability with my setup. Max said he runs a 70 locker with 90% spring with supervel's new 130 PF load so based on that I'd say 70 degree locker for you. 2. You can buy additional spring packs from JP's website. If you like tuning your gun, it might be worth it to pick up some extra springs since they are cheap. Lock pieces should be your first step in tuning. According to JP, springs are more for fine tuning and don't have as large of an impact as the lock piece. 3. I think the Giessele SD-3G is a really popular aftermarket trigger. Most people use that instead of JP's trigger. 4. It can be useful in very niche cases (unloaded starts, table starts) for propping up your gun and charging your gun .05 seconds faster, but realistically it doesn't matter. 5. Most people use OEM glock mags. I run OEM glock mags and they've been 100% reliable for me. 6. Max runs the 3 sideways port version and most people just copy him 7. I have the Taylor Freelance one and it works great. I think another company (Techwell?) also makes one that also works great. 8. It's an awesome gun and 100% worth it.

I did contact Rob but we did not find a solution without doing permanent mods(gas port opening). Trust me, I tried everything and asked everyone locally that shoots an mpx. Selling it and buying a jp5 is the way.