brian45acp

You got ballz. why did you remove it? Looks like it threads in to that trunion. Totally different than AR or blow backs so I don’t intend ever going that deep.

Don’t see the point messing with the jp triggers. I tried the SD3G and didn’t notice much difference. Your faster splits aren’t what win stages. So taking splits from .16 to .14 is going to do what? Taran put out a great video on this as well.

The point I was making is no tools required with how I did it. I was sick of using the brass dremel wheel and brass picks. I also don’t want to keep scouring my comp with tools. The chemical method is mostly hands off and so easy. As you can see in the pic the comp glows like it’s new. But if you need to chisel stuff off it’s likely from cheaper bullets causing melted lead to stick. I use jhp for purposes of keeping my blood lead levels down.

Only shoot jhp and it does get dirty. It’s all carbon and maybe some jacket but not lead. I have less issues in my blood from all the shooting, as do most shooters but they don’t check, so I use jhp only.

Lock back in jp5 is iffy. If you take the upper off and look how it works when the follower engages the lever to lift it there is very little force to do so. The little tab that is lifted by the follower also just barely sits on the flat shelf of the followers If you move the mag side to side while its seated the follower will miss the tab and fall off as well. I have found Glock mags to give me trouble anywhere from 1 year of use and on and can’t figure out why. Researching here the consensus is the mag body gets weak and spreads which I agree with. I will begin to gave double feeds and I’ve even had rounds pinched inside the mag body and stuck. For this reason I use MBX mags and they also don’t lock the bolt back. We don’t ever need the bolt to lock back so I don’t worry about it.

I’ve seen this in a match as well and the guy liked it. My opinion, anyone saying jp5 isn’t worth it over a gmr just doesn’t want to buy a jp5. It’s a massive difference when you are at the top of your game. Even if you aren’t top of the stack it’s a huge difference. I wanted to say the same as the guy you spoke to because I also didn’t want a $3300 pcc to make sense lol. Now I’m buying a second to have as back up and keep pristine because it’s that good. The question above about charging the handle was because blow backs converted suffer one flaw which is the bolt is locked up and the handle is hard as hell to charge. From your pics it seems the bolt and carrier are similar to have a jp5/mp5 work which is why you don’t feel any resistance. The charge handle pulls on the carrier and unlocks the bearings. Converted blow backs can’t do this and you have to fight the lock up which sucks.

Took me a long time to find a good technique. Used to spend hours picking and using dremel with brass brushes etc. This method is zero effort and take minutes. Clean comp to perfection once. Spray it with alcohol to assure metal is clean. Spray weld clean inside and spread with a Q tip to be sure it’s completely applied. Once it’s time to clean the comp use bore tech C4 and soak it for as long as you can. I strung mine up with a slip knot and dunk it in a old medicine bottle. Today I soaked a few hours and it was amazing results. Wanted to share with you guys who like clean guns. Mine is brand new clean every match and for those who like that this is for you. https://ibb.co/MScWQWs https://ibb.co/d0vkMhD l

If you are going this route this is what interested me:

I run 124grn going 1150fps and use the lightest spring. Ejection is 7-8 feet and never had a malfunction. I plan to play around some more and see what a 70 lock piece and heavier spring does with a lower power factor load which would be 124grn going 1050fps. Only reason is my back up rifle is my gmr13 and I’m trying out the new Maxim buffer. I want to try and make that rifle feel like jp5 and if I can then I want just one load for pcc not 2.

Love my 60 degree lock piece with lightest spring. Not sure why people say it wont work and is for hot duty ammo.

If you guys are using plated or coated junk its lead that you are accumulating. The long barrels produce heat to those bullets and they shave and melt lead. I guess the big difference here isnt what we spray on the comps its a true jacketed bullet vs coated/plated.

I had concerns about not using JP pins since they are oversize. But I measured the SD3G pins and they are .355 vs jp .356 so maybe it's ok. I still took the retaining pin out of the SD3G hammer and used JP pins to be safe. It triggers too much OCD and went back stock. Maybe it's a good trigger but it feels like crap vs the stock one I stoned and polished. Stock will last for sure and I am not so sure there is more performance to be had. But I am curious to try it again.

At first I felt the one shot was the best but found myself still really picking hard at big carbon deposits. I clean spotless every match so this is one match worth of carbon. Then I tried the welders crap past 2 matches and no more big build up. Very light carbon and I scrape it out with brass picks and a copper brush. Avid sells a brush kit with multiple style brushes that work great for many things. I got it on amazon. The welders stuff is significantly better and I am going to keep using it. Considering using it as case lube as well but not sure about the contamination of powder and primer. I need to experiment and see how well it dries on brass. If it dries I will try it for case lube as well.

Just want to report the 60 lock piece is awesome. I keep reading others say it's for duty ammo and it's not true. I am only a 124jhp 1130-1150fps. I did swap the SCS to the lightest spring which is white colored. Brass ejects 7-8ft which I just shy of the recommend 9ft by JP. Talking to JP one of their guys uses the 60 lock piece as well. Dont be afraid to try it based on what the internet says.

Not sure why people are scared of a 60 lock piece. I run it with the lightest spring and it’s amazing. Not for steel challenge but just wanted to mention that. I read a lot of this 60 lock piece being for duty ammo and it’s not true. I am using 124jhp 1130-1150fps and 100% reliable. Brass ejects 7-8ft just shy of the suggested 9ft by jp.

The brush that comes with a Glock 45acp works great in there. Just get a 45cal nylon brush and carbon remover. It’s not copper you are seeing. The bullet isn’t going down the chamber. The chamber is fluted and carbon gets by which you can see on the stripped brass that ejects.

Are you sure OAL is that long on these little bullets? Seems quite long. Even with 124s jm 1.10. I think there’s said 1.05 for these 100gr bullets so I assume they are very short bullets. did you notice any improvement using these vs normal weight bullets?

I was wrong, tried the welders anti spatter again today and it worked awesome. Much less build off and nothing needed to be chipped off. Just some carbon remover and brushes with scrapper tools. About half the work as usual.

Tried the welders crap and no change. I found One shot case lube to be the best so far. I wish there was something even better but haven't heard of such a thing.

I didn’t have the M lok guard. I think the kroil will help. It’s a creeping oil. But I used it on the barrel nut retainer which had anti seize and not loctite. I would torch the nut you have there and let the heat transfer through. With a rag you should be able to get a good grip on it. But that red loctite has to get heated. I used loctite to reinstall but didn’t go nuts.

I don’t see how. I just did this and luckily had the 3 holes on the face to match the 3 pins on the combo wrench. It was so freaking tight with loctite even after torching. Try Kroil. I had to shoot that into the barrel but retainer to budge it. I didn’t want to go so hard on my upper so went slow and gentle. The Kroil did the trick

All these replies and the most improved feature overlooked. reliable lol

Not sure why they go nuts on loctite. Blue is just fine but it seems they go red for most stuff. I have a very fine point flamed torch that has been my favorite tool.

Use a soldering iron tip in the head of the screws and hold it there for a while. It will help break the loctite.

Sounds like you figured it out. Trigger has to come out.